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Old 03-03-2012, 12:44 AM   #631
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are these the correct bulkheads? it says l3 and l4 models.

http://teamirsrc.com/index.php?main_...roducts_id=282
Yes, they will fit the L2 perfectly.
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Old 03-03-2012, 02:04 AM   #632
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if using the tc5 shock or any touring shock, what spring to start with? the tc springs are a different size and weight compared to the buggy silver, green, and black springs.
I use a blue tamiya trf shock and the front buggy springs fit. They will have preload when installed but that is ok. You need to give the springs more preload anyway. I think i use the original asso springbucket or whatever that thing is named at the end of the ballcup

I bought the oval spring set with 2x silver, green and black (with the micro springs included and that is all you need. I bought a blue front buggy spring seperatly but found it was longer then the ones in the oval set (even though it is a front buggy spring). I gues correct spring lenghts weren't very important to asso. I haven't used the blue spring yet as i haven't had the need for it.
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Old 03-03-2012, 02:05 AM   #633
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I use the 10R5 oval spring set.
For starters use the green spring.

regards Roy

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if using the tc5 shock or any touring shock, what spring to start with? the tc springs are a different size and weight compared to the buggy silver, green, and black springs.
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Old 03-03-2012, 02:09 AM   #634
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Same here!

The #1583 Oval/Onroad spring set. Mostly I use the green or silver center spring on a TC5 center shock.
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Old 03-08-2012, 05:22 PM   #635
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do you guys run any lube on the front suspension?

what piston and weight oil do you recommend in the center tc shock?
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Old 03-08-2012, 09:18 PM   #636
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I use the TC5 shock with a FT 2 hole piston and 20-50wt oil depending on the track/spring.
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Old 03-09-2012, 01:51 AM   #637
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Hello,

Ι'm racing for many years in 1/8 buggy, but we have a new outdoor on road track in my area so I will buy this week a corally 10sl 235mm and I have some questions for you, it's my first on road car and i will try to open a WGT class in my area.

The set up i'm thinking to purchase in electronis is orion r10 pro with orion vst modified 10.5t and 7.4volt lipo.

The track I will run the car is medium size for 1/10 cars, not for 1/8.

The 10.5T is a good starting point for the medium size track or I must go lower, the traction of the traction is medium to high.

What motor pinions should I buy, the stock main gear is 48p 78T, the tyres I will buy is Jaco purple and pink F/R

Is it worth buying the P4 conversion kit from corally,i'm thinking that at least it will have a better access for removing the stick 7.4 pack.

Thank you in advance for your answers!
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Old 03-09-2012, 04:03 AM   #638
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In World GT only 200mm wide chassis are allowed (if you follow the WGT rules). Ofcourse you can just make rules that allow 200mm and 235mm together and call it pancar class or Pro10 class or something else just to distinguish between the World GT rules (200mm only) and your own rules.

What motors you should use depend on what you want to do with the class, how good the drivers are and what size track you drive on.

Overhere 10.5t 2s lipo and open esc rules make for some fast cars that are still relatively easy and super fun to drive. It seems fast enough to keep most drivers in that class on their toes (in a good way) for several years without the excessive wear of tires and equipment. Laptimes wise the 10.5t class is up there with the fastest electro classes so for most drivers that are in that class it is fast enough for a club class or even a national class.

Pinion is difficult to say as it really depends on track size, motor and the ammount of dynamic timing you apply. We always use rollout to get a fixed number for gearing reference. As a guide i normally end up with 65 degrees C on the motor after a 7 minutes race.

I don't use one myself but the corally is a good and sturdy car. I haven't seen any driver using the optional backend yet so can't comment on that. Personaly i would just use the standard backend and buy some different side springs and get the feel of the car for at least a year before i would buy other options. The standard shock spring is 12lbs as far as i know and should be good for most outdoor circuits.
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Last edited by 2wdrive; 03-09-2012 at 05:24 AM.
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:11 AM   #639
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In World GT only 200mm wide chassis are allowed (if you follow the WGT rules). Ofcourse you can just make rules that allow 200mm and 235mm together and call it pancar class or Pro10 class or something else just to distinguish between the World GT rules (200mm only) and your own rules.

What motors you should use depend on what you want to do with the class, how good the drivers are and what size track you drive on.

Overhere 10.5t 2s lipo and open esc rules make for some fast cars that are still relatively easy and super fun to drive. It seems fast enough to keep most drivers in that class on their toes (in a good way) for several years without the excessive wear of tires and equipment. Laptimes wise the 10.5t class is up there with the fastest electro classes so for most drivers that are in that class it is fast enough for a club class or even a national class.

Pinion is difficult to say as it really depends on track size, motor and the ammount of dynamic timing you apply. We always use rollout to get a fixed number for gearing reference. As a guide i normally end up with 65 degrees C on the motor after a 7 minutes race.

I don't use one myself but the corally is a good and sturdy car. I haven't seen any driver using the optional backend yet so can't comment on that. Personaly i would just use the standard backend and buy some different side springs and get the feel of the car for at least a year before i would buy other options. The standard shock spring is 12lbs as far as i know and should be good for most outdoor circuits.
Thank you for your answer, we are just starting some races in the track so we will have an open category of 1/10 pan cars, so I think 235mm will have an advantage, it can handle the power better and the le mans body is beautiful!

I would also like to ask your opinion about the CRC X-10 LE with the 235mm expansion kit, as you have have understand I will race in club level not something serious. For the CRC I can find easy and cheap spare parts in many e-shops like amain, the negatives are the inch tools and also that it's not a ready 235mm kit...
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:35 AM   #640
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In modified it could be different but at least with the 10.5t motors the 235mm wide cars have less advantage against 200mm cars then people think. It is usually more in the mind. I do admit a wide car looks more awesome hence why many use them.

The extention kit is ok when using 10.5t. Be carefull to not clip boards or curbs etc. In accidents the extentions can make the force of impact higher on the axle. It doesn't mean the axle snaps right away but it could snap easier with extentions then without extentions.
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Old 03-14-2012, 08:30 PM   #641
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where can i get a top rear pod plate like this?

i got the touring shock built (tc6.1), went to put it on the car and it's to short, put a longer rod end on it and it still seems short but maybe it's just me, should the rear pod be able to flex down to the rear, i guess this is called pod droop? it flexes to the center of the car just fine but when i flex the pod to the rear the shock length is limiting the pod movement.

i'm thinking maybe the top rear pod plate pictured above might move the mounting point closer to the center of the car and give more shock stroke. might have to try the front shock mount also.

my have to try the front mount off of a 10r5 to see if it will fit.

Last edited by LOW ET; 03-14-2012 at 09:02 PM.
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Old 03-15-2012, 12:02 AM   #642
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You have to wait till 2WD reacts as it is his car your showing.
Most of us are using the TC5 shock.
I don't know if that one is longer?

regards Roy
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Old 03-15-2012, 03:25 AM   #643
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@low ET

You are correct, the lenght of the touringcar shock might originally be too short. To remedy that I used a longshanks RPM ballcups and cut it to size. That way you have enough length for pod droop and spring tension. It can take a little time of handfitting and cutting to see how much you cut off for the best feeling in poddroop and spring tension.

The ballcup in that picture is in total 2cm long, you might get away with a standard size RPM ballcup but no idea if they are long enough. The pod droop should not be too much. Make sure you can set poddroop from 0 to 2mm. When i measure poddroop i measure it somewhere at the end of my chassis.

Put chassis race ready on a table (without body). Measure height of chassis at a spot at the back of the chassis. Raise the car at the center (use the bodypost for instance) and measure the height just before the backtires leave the ground. The difference in height is pod droop ...at least for me it is the easiest way to measure it. Others measure the shock length or the difference in height of the pod (might actually be more precise). I think you will get different values for pod droop when measured in different ways so be sure to ask how they measured it when you want to know their poddroop.

With a 10.5t 2s pod droop from 0 to 2mm depending on circuit, traction, bumpy or not or general feel of the car. I know that in modified some use a lot more poddroop.

The topplate was made by Powell Racing Components (PRC). Sadly he doesn't make parts anymore since end of 2010. The topplate was a very good and cheap option. The topplate has the same lenght at the shock attachment as the original topplate so you don't win anything in the shock length department.
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Last edited by 2wdrive; 03-15-2012 at 03:49 AM.
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Old 03-15-2012, 01:12 PM   #644
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thanks for the info, i'll have to look for the long rod ends. the stock tc6.1 rod end is WAY to short so i tried a rpm heavy duty rod end and it helped but it's still short.
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Old 03-15-2012, 01:45 PM   #645
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I have a crc gen-x le that I am about to install the wide conversion on to run pro 10 at my local parking lot track. Racing starts up in april and this will be the first year we have run this class, so we don't have any experts to badger about this stuff (yet!). Do you guys have any thoughts about 64 vs. 48 pitch gears, and also, any recommendations for a spur to start out with? Kinda involved changing the spur on these cars, so i'd like to atleast have an educated guess to start with and then tweak with the pinion. I will be running 13.5t, probably with a little boost. Track has a 140-160+ foot back straight.

Thanks!
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