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Old 02-02-2012, 12:59 PM   #571
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You mean for the rear wheel bolts?
It isn't metric but US/English.

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Originally Posted by samshirley00 View Post
i would, but i don't have the correct size hex driver bit, 2mm seems a tiny bit too small, and 2.5 is too big D:
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Old 02-02-2012, 01:59 PM   #572
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Originally Posted by samshirley00 View Post
i would, but i don't have the correct size hex driver bit, 2mm seems a tiny bit too small, and 2.5 is too big D:
Car is American, so will not be in Metric.
You will have to get an AF tool set.

I have the same issue with my CRC, so have 2 tool boxes, metric (for F1) and AF (for GT).
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Old 02-03-2012, 09:53 AM   #573
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not tight, my spelling is terrible. I tried it on the road quickly, and when i went full throttle, the spur gear span, and the car didn't accelerate much.....

I looked at the manual, but it wasn't very clear on what to do.....
Sounds like you haven't tightened the diff up enough. If you follow the instructions unless you know exactly how the diff should be assembled it's easy to get it wrong. Take the diff nut off the axle, and the three washers that sit against the bearing. Now look at the two steel spring washers and you will notice they aren't flat, the centre hole is raised slightly on one side. These two washers are the springs that keep the diff together and tensioned. First the alloy cone drops on the axle narrow end first, so it rests against the centre of the bearing. Now you fit the two spring washers on, with the raised section in the middle nearer the nut so the centre is raised. The diff nut pushing against these washers is what puts spring tension on the diff to keep it together. Now fit the nut and tighten it until it's against the washers.
Now to adjust the diff setting hold both rear wheels, one in each hand, and try and push the spur gear round with your thumb. If the gear moves tighten the diff nut up a little and try again. Keep on tightening the nut a little until you can no longer turn the spur gear, or you can only move it with a lot of pushing. Your diff is now set correctly.

American cars all need the same size allen drivers, you need a 3/32 driver for the larger screws. You also really need a 1/16th for the smaller screws, although you can get away with a 1.5mm driver in an emergency, it will round off the slightly bigger socket very quickly. The nuts are all imperial as well, rather than buy nut drivers for just the one car, buy the Associated moulded tool set, part number AS6956

Oh, and the 96 tooth spur was standard issue for running these cars indoors, I always had a plentiful supply of them.
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Old 02-05-2012, 10:25 AM   #574
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From all the mod video's this one is my favourite.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ub6fLXI9m6A

Watch as they go past the driverstand full speed and seem to go straight into the wall at the end but steer into the tight turn at the last milisecond. That is some good driving there.
This is quite a fast track but this one is even better. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFHp1...eature=related
Itīs the Pro10 Nationals A-Main 1. of triple A-Mains. Watch the yellow car (TQ) and the orange/blue car starting from 2nd place. The orange/blue car was winning this run and the Nationals. Both cars did break the 1/8th gas track record regarding laptime.
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Old 02-05-2012, 11:15 AM   #575
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thanks terry, got it going ok for now, just waiting for that bodyshell to arrive
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Old 02-07-2012, 02:29 AM   #576
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This is quite a fast track but this one is even better. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFHp1...eature=related
Itīs the Pro10 Nationals A-Main 1. of triple A-Mains. Watch the yellow car (TQ) and the orange/blue car starting from 2nd place. The orange/blue car was winning this run and the Nationals. Both cars did break the 1/8th gas track record regarding laptime.
Hi gunther,
I have seen it multiple times . Good stuff. We had plans to go to that track this year to attend the Masters pro10 but our national championship race in Rucphen is on the same day so will have to see.
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Old 02-19-2012, 02:14 PM   #577
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finished the body!
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Old 02-19-2012, 02:52 PM   #578
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WOW that is really white
Naah just kidding
It will be seen on track
Hopefully Alex will get the 905MD made soon so we can use them this season
Till then it is a Nissan P35 for me

regards Roy
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Old 02-19-2012, 03:09 PM   #579
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its even more white IRL, phone camera isn't too great, cant wait to give it a quick blast!
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Old 02-19-2012, 03:40 PM   #580
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You really want to put some side dams on that body. It does help a lot
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:55 PM   #581
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You really want to put some side dams on that body. It does help a lot
Can you please post some pics on the side dams? I am just cutting out the same body, it did come with some nuts and bolts but no side dams, not sure what the nuts and bolts are for.
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:24 PM   #582
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Not the same body but there are side dams on it

regards Roy

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Can you please post some pics on the side dams? I am just cutting out the same body, it did come with some nuts and bolts but no side dams, not sure what the nuts and bolts are for.
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Pro 10: 235mm Le Mans Prototype Pan Car Discussion-sp3-x2.jpg  
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Old 02-21-2012, 01:32 AM   #583
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Quote:
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Can you please post some pics on the side dams? I am just cutting out the same body, it did come with some nuts and bolts but no side dams, not sure what the nuts and bolts are for.
The nissan P35 comes with side dams in de package like pro10noob showed on his picture. The rest of the bodies you have to DIY.

If you still have the big piece that you cut from the back of the car then you can use that to cut some side dams out.

For my side dams i bought a sheet of 0,7mm lexaan with on one side a cover film. I first drew the design on a piece of cardboard/paper and handfit it to see how it looks like on the model. I drew the design on the lexaan, cut out the wing, spray painted it and then I bolted the wing with 2 screws to the body.

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Old 02-21-2012, 04:13 AM   #584
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Wow!
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Old 02-22-2012, 01:33 AM   #585
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Thanks Guys, not to take away from Pro10noob but 2wd that car looks awesome!!
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