Pro 10: 235mm Le Mans Prototype Pan Car Discussion
#497
There are acouple of companies that sell Chasis protector sheets, but you can goto a local dirt bike shop, and ask them for protective film. I'm not into dirt bikes, but I believe they use the clear plastic film to protect number plates, and the gas tanks on dirt bikes. Worth checking out.
Shawn
#498
Tech Master
#499
Tech Initiate
There are a couple of companies that sell Chasis protector sheets, but you can goto a local dirt bike shop, and ask them for protective film. I'm not into dirt bikes, but I believe they use the clear plastic film to protect number plates, and the gas tanks on dirt bikes. Worth checking out.
Shawn
Shawn
#500
Tech Master
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTAX8&P=7
#501
Tech Master
Silicone coated tyres came from 1/12th scale, we used to do it so we actually had some grip on the polished wood floors we raced on back in the late 70s. Any silicone mastic will do, just make sure it is silicone and not the modern acrylic ones. When you smell it it should smell strongly of vinegar.
You can use as soft a tyre as you want, they won't wear down and are protected from damage by the silicone.
You need a few things to prepare the tyres. A flat surface that you don't mind getting covered in silicone, I used to use a glass sheet. Some dish soap to stop them sticking to your surface, and something to act as an axle to help roll the wheels, I used a long screwdriver.
Do the tyres as pairs, helps to keep them even. Squirt a little dish soap onto your flat surface and squeeze some silicone onto each tyre. Now roll the tyres through the dish soap to spread the silicone around the tyres until it is even. Do the same for the other pair of tyres and put them aside to dry making sure the silicone isn't touching anything.
You now have silicone coated slicks, if you are racing in dusty conditions then adding some stipples to give a tread helps grip. To add stipples when the tyres are dry add some more silicone and roll the tyres together until the stipples are consistent around the surface. You can create different size spikes depending on how much silicone you add. These spikes won't last too long, when we raced 1/12th on wood floor we used a very fine spike which meant we used up one set of tyres per race, although we just had to create the spikes again for next weeks racing and tyres costs were zero.
You can see what siliconed tyres look like on my old 1/12th scale here. It shows bigger spikes on the rear with finer spikes on the front.
You can use as soft a tyre as you want, they won't wear down and are protected from damage by the silicone.
You need a few things to prepare the tyres. A flat surface that you don't mind getting covered in silicone, I used to use a glass sheet. Some dish soap to stop them sticking to your surface, and something to act as an axle to help roll the wheels, I used a long screwdriver.
Do the tyres as pairs, helps to keep them even. Squirt a little dish soap onto your flat surface and squeeze some silicone onto each tyre. Now roll the tyres through the dish soap to spread the silicone around the tyres until it is even. Do the same for the other pair of tyres and put them aside to dry making sure the silicone isn't touching anything.
You now have silicone coated slicks, if you are racing in dusty conditions then adding some stipples to give a tread helps grip. To add stipples when the tyres are dry add some more silicone and roll the tyres together until the stipples are consistent around the surface. You can create different size spikes depending on how much silicone you add. These spikes won't last too long, when we raced 1/12th on wood floor we used a very fine spike which meant we used up one set of tyres per race, although we just had to create the spikes again for next weeks racing and tyres costs were zero.
You can see what siliconed tyres look like on my old 1/12th scale here. It shows bigger spikes on the rear with finer spikes on the front.
#502
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
Sorry for the long delay, I did not see your post; the above is correct, it needs to have that strong smell or it will peel right off.
We didn't have much set up like mentioned, I think we chucked them up in a drill and used a plastic putty knife/scraper and just put a smooth coat on them. As long as you had similar sized foams the silicon seemed to even itself out if you didn’t use too much (you can always re-apply or peel off and start anew) I’ll take a pic as well next time I see them. I don’t know why it’s not used more often for outdoor racing to save some money $$$ We never grooved our tires but can see the benefits.
We didn't have much set up like mentioned, I think we chucked them up in a drill and used a plastic putty knife/scraper and just put a smooth coat on them. As long as you had similar sized foams the silicon seemed to even itself out if you didn’t use too much (you can always re-apply or peel off and start anew) I’ll take a pic as well next time I see them. I don’t know why it’s not used more often for outdoor racing to save some money $$$ We never grooved our tires but can see the benefits.
#503
#504
@terry and nrtv20
Thanks for the explanation and the picture. Are you using the silicone in tubes that you can buy in a DIY store? The transparant ones to seal all kinds of cracks and stuff with? A tube that you need to place inside a pistol like holder and squeze the suff out? Or is it another kind of silicone?
Thanks for the explanation and the picture. Are you using the silicone in tubes that you can buy in a DIY store? The transparant ones to seal all kinds of cracks and stuff with? A tube that you need to place inside a pistol like holder and squeze the suff out? Or is it another kind of silicone?
#505
Tech Master
@terry and nrtv20
Thanks for the explanation and the picture. Are you using the silicone in tubes that you can buy in a DIY store? The transparant ones to seal all kinds of cracks and stuff with? A tube that you need to place inside a pistol like holder and squeze the suff out? Or is it another kind of silicone?
Thanks for the explanation and the picture. Are you using the silicone in tubes that you can buy in a DIY store? The transparant ones to seal all kinds of cracks and stuff with? A tube that you need to place inside a pistol like holder and squeze the suff out? Or is it another kind of silicone?
#507
Tech Addict
What dia and width is the front and rear tires usually?
And what is the wheelbase on the scimtiar pro and normal Pro 10 car.
Making a Pro 10 on the CAD.
And what is the wheelbase on the scimtiar pro and normal Pro 10 car.
Making a Pro 10 on the CAD.
#508
Tech Master
Silicone coated tyres came from 1/12th scale, we used to do it so we actually had some grip on the polished wood floors we raced on back in the late 70s. Any silicone mastic will do, just make sure it is silicone and not the modern acrylic ones. When you smell it it should smell strongly of vinegar.
You can use as soft a tyre as you want, they won't wear down and are protected from damage by the silicone.
You need a few things to prepare the tyres. A flat surface that you don't mind getting covered in silicone, I used to use a glass sheet. Some dish soap to stop them sticking to your surface, and something to act as an axle to help roll the wheels, I used a long screwdriver.
Do the tyres as pairs, helps to keep them even. Squirt a little dish soap onto your flat surface and squeeze some silicone onto each tyre. Now roll the tyres through the dish soap to spread the silicone around the tyres until it is even. Do the same for the other pair of tyres and put them aside to dry making sure the silicone isn't touching anything.
You now have silicone coated slicks, if you are racing in dusty conditions then adding some stipples to give a tread helps grip. To add stipples when the tyres are dry add some more silicone and roll the tyres together until the stipples are consistent around the surface. You can create different size spikes depending on how much silicone you add. These spikes won't last too long, when we raced 1/12th on wood floor we used a very fine spike which meant we used up one set of tyres per race, although we just had to create the spikes again for next weeks racing and tyres costs were zero.
You can see what siliconed tyres look like on my old 1/12th scale here. It shows bigger spikes on the rear with finer spikes on the front.
You can use as soft a tyre as you want, they won't wear down and are protected from damage by the silicone.
You need a few things to prepare the tyres. A flat surface that you don't mind getting covered in silicone, I used to use a glass sheet. Some dish soap to stop them sticking to your surface, and something to act as an axle to help roll the wheels, I used a long screwdriver.
Do the tyres as pairs, helps to keep them even. Squirt a little dish soap onto your flat surface and squeeze some silicone onto each tyre. Now roll the tyres through the dish soap to spread the silicone around the tyres until it is even. Do the same for the other pair of tyres and put them aside to dry making sure the silicone isn't touching anything.
You now have silicone coated slicks, if you are racing in dusty conditions then adding some stipples to give a tread helps grip. To add stipples when the tyres are dry add some more silicone and roll the tyres together until the stipples are consistent around the surface. You can create different size spikes depending on how much silicone you add. These spikes won't last too long, when we raced 1/12th on wood floor we used a very fine spike which meant we used up one set of tyres per race, although we just had to create the spikes again for next weeks racing and tyres costs were zero.
You can see what siliconed tyres look like on my old 1/12th scale here. It shows bigger spikes on the rear with finer spikes on the front.
#509
Tech Initiate
That topplate is an aftermarket part from PRC. PRC doesn't make parts anymore though. It is a simple but yet very functional. That picture you showed is from 2010. Since then i changed a little here and there http://www.rctech.net/forum/9807611-post352.html