R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-06-2011, 01:17 PM   #451
Tech Master
 
2wdrive's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 1,316
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ses414 View Post
Hi guys, my RC10L2 has been sitting there awaiting new shaft, meanwhile i saw a corally c10x going at attractive price, shoud i get it?? how is the online part support of corally?? is there commonality between AE parts and corally parts like axle,bearing? thanks!
The front suspension of the corally 10x will fit 100% on the rc10l2 as corally use the same associated suspension. The rest is totaly different and not usable. The corally uses metric screws as well.

That said. The corally 10x is still a good car. Specially if it comes with a carbon chassis. (the later versions come with a dual layerd fibreglass/ carbon sandwich)
__________________
www.rc-lemans.de
2wdrive is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2011, 01:38 PM   #452
Moderator
 
Pro ten Holland's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Druten/Holland (Europe)
Posts: 1,658
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Is it a 10X next generation or the older C10/X?
__________________
http://www.rc-lemans.de/
Pro ten Holland is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2011, 01:47 PM   #453
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Singapore
Posts: 33
Default

If I'm running 2s lipo with 8.5t brushless, how should I gear my car ?
__________________
[Mugen Seiki MRX-5]
Backspace. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2011, 02:57 PM   #454
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 388
Default IRS

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumpy View Post
Hope the links work.
Hi Bumpy,

The link works. Thanks!

You said:
To start with, what chassis do you have? I just got the IRS wide pod axle set for my 10r5 and it works great. I just had to shim the diff side out 4mm between the diff and pod bearing and get a 15mm st/st tube spacer made to go on the other side with the standard clamping hub. Works a treat. now just waiting for my front widening parts to come in from Full Option.

IRS2135BL says:
1/10th Graphite Pro Axle Kit for (235mm) Wide On-Road Cars - Blue (msrp $69.95)
This 1/10th axle kit is designed for large D-Rings. The kit includes a graphite axle (IRS2101), drive hub (IRS2121BL), clamp hub (IRS215BL), diff cone (IRS527BL), posi-loc diff nut (IRS203BL), (12) 1/8" diff balls (IRS204), and (2) D-Diff rings (IRS511D).

You say "the standard clamping hub". That is the one in the IRS set? Or the one that came with the car?

It can't be done without the XRA375090 adjustment shims and your 15mm st/st tube spacer?

How wide is the car actually with this conversionset? Is it really 235mm or somewhat smaller?

Best Regards,

Ken Sei

Last edited by Kensei; 12-06-2011 at 03:19 PM.
Kensei is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2011, 03:12 PM   #455
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 388
Default Eagle

Quote:
Originally Posted by drbelleville View Post
+1 Corally and Academy cloned the Protoform P35. Protoform had destroyed the mold years ago.

D-Drive has 2 versions of the P35 on their site:

the 200mm P35 "Eagle"

the lightweight P35 "Protoform"
200 mm you say?
On their website it says 230mm. It seems to be a slightly smaller version of the P35 "Protoform".
Kensei is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2011, 02:37 AM   #456
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Kapiti, New Zealand
Posts: 133
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
Hi Bumpy,

The link works. Thanks!

You said:
To start with, what chassis do you have? I just got the IRS wide pod axle set for my 10r5 and it works great. I just had to shim the diff side out 4mm between the diff and pod bearing and get a 15mm st/st tube spacer made to go on the other side with the standard clamping hub. Works a treat. now just waiting for my front widening parts to come in from Full Option.

IRS2135BL says:
1/10th Graphite Pro Axle Kit for (235mm) Wide On-Road Cars - Blue (msrp $69.95)
This 1/10th axle kit is designed for large D-Rings. The kit includes a graphite axle (IRS2101), drive hub (IRS2121BL), clamp hub (IRS215BL), diff cone (IRS527BL), posi-loc diff nut (IRS203BL), (12) 1/8" diff balls (IRS204), and (2) D-Diff rings (IRS511D).

You say "the standard clamping hub". That is the one in the IRS set? Or the one that came with the car?I bought the IRS2135BL kit but did not use the clamping hub and used my AE kit one instead.

It can't be done without the XRA375090 adjustment shims and your 15mm st/st tube spacer?See the attached picture of the rear end how I had it setup

How wide is the car actually with this conversionset? Is it really 235mm or somewhat smaller?With the 4mm of shims between the diff hub and the inner bearing and using the 15mm Stainless steel tube spacer I had the rear wheels out to 232mm wide. Most 235 cars are about this size to get the rear wheels inside the body which is normally only 235mm wide

Best Regards,

Ken Sei
.
Attached Thumbnails
Pro 10: 235mm Le Mans Prototype Pan Car Discussion-img_1517.jpg  
Bumpy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2011, 03:23 AM   #457
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 309
Default

About ratios...

It depends from a lot of factors..., the brand of Brushless motor (LRP have more punch than Hobbywings..) but I can tell you:

With my Corally 10SL and:

10.5T motor: 78 spur/24 pinion in 48p
7.5T motor: 78 spur/19 pinion in 48p

With 8.5T should start with 78/20-21 and then use bigger pinions if you can always measuring your motor temperatures!!!
__________________
T.O.P Photon EX-RCDevil PC10H3X-Xray X1
rokosam is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2011, 04:46 AM   #458
Tech Elite
 
Pro10noob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2,076
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

@ Kensei...
You could also make a wider rear pod so you don't need a spacer between the left hub and left podplate.
The pic is from a Asso based car with T-bar(from Joost.K) but the idea is the same with the link car as seen in the second pic.(found on this forum, i believe posted by Bumpy)
See pic's.

regards Roy
Attached Thumbnails
Pro 10: 235mm Le Mans Prototype Pan Car Discussion-rc10r5xsemifinal003.jpg   Pro 10: 235mm Le Mans Prototype Pan Car Discussion-img_0217.jpg  
__________________
l===/o\===l
[_]-###-[_] V-link proto type Pro10,JKMR P235-SE Pro10
P235-VL Pro10 comming soon
Sponsered by me,myself and i :)
Pro10noob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2011, 10:16 AM   #459
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 388
Default RC10R5 extension

Originally Posted by Bumpy
To start with, what chassis do you have? I just got the IRS wide pod axle set for my 10r5 and it works great. I just had to shim the diff side out 4mm between the diff and pod bearing and get a 15mm st/st tube spacer made to go on the other side with the standard clamping hub. Works a treat. now just waiting for my front widening parts to come in from Full Option.


@bumpy:
you had to shim the diff side out 4mm between the diff and pod bearing.
Does that mean that the spur moves to the right 4mm?
And if so, how does that work with the pinion then?
Kensei is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2011, 06:21 PM   #460
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 28
Default

i am new to brushless, would an LRP Vector X11 10.5T 'Stock Spec' Brushless Motor be good for my rc10l?

i don't really know what stock spec means.
spence88mph is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2011, 02:18 AM   #461
Tech Elite
 
Pro10noob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2,076
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

It means you have a spec motor for stock racing classes.
They need to be within certain spec's to be allowed to race in that class.
Yes it would be good for your RC10L.
Over here we use these kind of motors with 2S lipo in the 235MM Pro10 class and on the big tracks reach a speed of about 100KM/H.

regards Roy

Quote:
Originally Posted by spence88mph View Post
i am new to brushless, would an LRP Vector X11 10.5T 'Stock Spec' Brushless Motor be good for my rc10l?

i don't really know what stock spec means.
__________________
l===/o\===l
[_]-###-[_] V-link proto type Pro10,JKMR P235-SE Pro10
P235-VL Pro10 comming soon
Sponsered by me,myself and i :)
Pro10noob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2011, 03:41 AM   #462
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 309
Default

Which ratio you use and roll out to get 100 km/h with 10.5T stock motor?

I use 78/24 48p in my Corally 10SL 235 mm and the car is very stable and nice to drive but donīt achieve so much max speed!!!
__________________
T.O.P Photon EX-RCDevil PC10H3X-Xray X1
rokosam is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2011, 03:54 AM   #463
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Kapiti, New Zealand
Posts: 133
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
Originally Posted by Bumpy
To start with, what chassis do you have? I just got the IRS wide pod axle set for my 10r5 and it works great. I just had to shim the diff side out 4mm between the diff and pod bearing and get a 15mm st/st tube spacer made to go on the other side with the standard clamping hub. Works a treat. now just waiting for my front widening parts to come in from Full Option.


@bumpy:
you had to shim the diff side out 4mm between the diff and pod bearing.Correct
Does that mean that the spur moves to the right 4mm?Yes
And if so, how does that work with the pinion then?It works fine. The pinion just mounts further out on the motor shaft. There's still heaps of motor shaft to tighten the pinion onto.
.
Bumpy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2011, 04:11 AM   #464
Tech Elite
 
Pro10noob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2,076
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Hello Rosokam.
These figures are from the Pro10 drivers here in Holland who drive a lot on 1:8 nitro tracks.
The rollout they use is 37 to 39.
They run the motor with boost and turbo.
It is to the max and a few of the the guys use also the Prostock GM motor because this one has more power.
Look on youtube for Pro10@ MACH or Heemstede and you will see how fast they are.
It seems that they are now "playing" with the nitro 1:10 guys

regards Roy
Ps your from Germany Roso?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rokosam View Post
Which ratio you use and roll out to get 100 km/h with 10.5T stock motor?

I use 78/24 48p in my Corally 10SL 235 mm and the car is very stable and nice to drive but donīt achieve so much max speed!!!
__________________
l===/o\===l
[_]-###-[_] V-link proto type Pro10,JKMR P235-SE Pro10
P235-VL Pro10 comming soon
Sponsered by me,myself and i :)
Pro10noob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2011, 04:36 AM   #465
Tech Master
 
2wdrive's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 1,316
Default

At the club that pro10noob mentions we first go through a long sweeper leading up to the straight so we already are accelerating quite high when we go on to the straight. The straight is around 70 meters but with the sweeper added it is roughly 100 meters alltogether.

The track is where next years World Championship takes place. They have put a removable chicane on the straight now as there is a high chance that modified tc are ripping their tires apart. (happend already a few times) and to let the straight be less important. (remember hara blasting everyone by with his boosted modified setup during the ETS a year or so ago? )The modified tc go roughly 115km/h there at the moment what i remember.

I have my rollout at around 38mm plus or minus 2mm for different tracks. With a Xerun120A and a xerun 10.5t motor and a mild program we reach indeed 95-100km/h on the straight with our 10.5t pro10 cars. (speedtrap)

We drive 7 minutes races so have to adjust the rollout and program accordingly to drive 7 minutes instead of 5 minutes. On average my motor is 60-65 degrees C after 7 minutes race. The highest i had this year was 70 degrees C and this was during sunny weather. In 5 minutes races we could get the speed/acceleration even higher.

We use pro10 bodies so our topspeed is high without creating too much drag on the straight. I myself am using a medium downforce body on 1/8 tracks. It depends on the traction availlable ofcourse but medium downforce seems to be a good balance between topspeed/acceleration/downforce/ heat of the motor in our 10.5t class.

On small 1/10 tracks i normally use the peugeot 905b HD or the andy sauber mercedes with a gurney added. The electric tracks have less traction hence the higher downforce bodies.

I am not sure if a GM motor is faster then any other motor. I have found that my hobbywing xerun motor is not lacking any speed against any other 10.5t motor availlable from any brand even though they would claim the oposite. Even the corally motors are the same when aplying dynamic timing and they are the bomb in zero dynamic timing classes together with the graupner motors.

I didn't notice any difference of top speed when i was behind joost with his GM motor or M7H with his LRPx12. We were sometimes a meter apart on the straight with 3-4 cars and not gaining or loosing anything on the straight so i can safely say it really doesn't matter.
__________________
www.rc-lemans.de
2wdrive is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:08 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0