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Pro 10: 235mm Le Mans Prototype Pan Car Discussion

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Pro 10: 235mm Le Mans Prototype Pan Car Discussion

Old 06-21-2017, 10:21 AM
  #4261  
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Hi there !!!

I am from Portugal, and very interested in getting a 235 pan car. I own a RC10L3 + lots of parts i´ve been bidding on eBay hahah, so i got a full mess of them, but i think on capable of getting a 235 out of it at the moment.

I need some hints on the following :

1 - Is there an European online store that you recommend to get a car from ?
2 - What is the brand that you recommend as is best supported in Europe ? I mean that has spares and upgrades available, and doesnt change models each year
3 - BTW - I am looking for a nice deal on a 235 in case you happen to have one (within europe since customs are a bi#$h in portugal) - if you do, then PM me!
4 - Are all tires for Pro 10 fitting all models (from the main brands) ?

This is enough for starters

Thanks!
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Old 06-21-2017, 11:51 AM
  #4262  
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These questions are easy to solve:
1. European store to recommend is without a doubt ToniSport
2. I would certainly recommend the Roche P10W car, it is however sold out at the moment but maybe you can send them an email to order one for you. I have two of those cars myself and they are in my eyes the best full Pro10 kit that you can buy at this time.
3. I could sell you a second hand Roche P10W that is only a few months old but including shipping that would come to about 275 euro. This would include a protoform swift body and a set of tires. If you are interested then send me a pm.
4. Normally all tires from the main brands fit all pro10 cars. Let me know what brands of tires you are looking at and i can confirm. For sure Contact and BSR fit all pro10 cars.

Any more questions then let us know :-)
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Old 06-22-2017, 12:53 PM
  #4263  
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Do not forget Capricorn pro10 25mm and ufra tires for me the best
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Old 06-22-2017, 01:17 PM
  #4264  
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Originally Posted by moraccio
Do not forget Capricorn pro10 25mm and ufra tires for me the best
The Capricorn is a good looking car also but i think the Roche will beat it in terms of quality. The Roche chassis is 3mm thick and also the Roche includes side shocks instead of side tubes. Just my opinion of course based on the experience i have with the Roche :-)
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Old 06-23-2017, 02:20 AM
  #4265  
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Hey!

Looking at my spares i found a 235 chassis in carbon, brand new for my rc10l3
Also, 2 broader rear axels in graphite...
I will keep you posted with pics as soon as i start disassembling the 200mm and getting the 235mm

BTW, where can i get a 235 body for it in europe ?
Toni sport doesnt seem to have them at the moment!

So i was wondering :
1 - can i use the same hubs and rear pod ?
2 - i am lacking the metal bar that spaces the 2 front hubs, is that important ?
3 - what sort of motor can i put to work with my ESC (LRP Sphere - TC Spec)
4 - do i need fans on the ESC and Motor to run this hottie ?
5 - if i get new tires, must i trim them, or can i just raise the axels ?
6 - can i use a spare Big Bore from my Durango DEX 410 as center shock ?
7 - for a mid/low grip outdoor asphalt track, what would be good starting points for:
a. mid shock oil and shock ?
b. front and rear tires hardness ? Is tire grip lotion a must ?
c. side absorber oil (the ones that came with or without springs in the old RC10) ?
d. should i put springs in the side shocks ?

Thanks for your help! (again!)
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Old 06-23-2017, 03:35 AM
  #4266  
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Originally Posted by enzyme
1 - can i use the same hubs and rear pod ? ?
Thanks for your help! (again!)
The pod plates are wider and the axle is longer.
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Old 06-23-2017, 12:47 PM
  #4267  
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Originally Posted by enzyme
Hey!

Looking at my spares i found a 235 chassis in carbon, brand new for my rc10l3
Also, 2 broader rear axels in graphite...
I will keep you posted with pics as soon as i start disassembling the 200mm and getting the 235mm

BTW, where can i get a 235 body for it in europe ?
Toni sport doesnt seem to have them at the moment!

So i was wondering :
1 - can i use the same hubs and rear pod ?
2 - i am lacking the metal bar that spaces the 2 front hubs, is that important ?
3 - what sort of motor can i put to work with my ESC (LRP Sphere - TC Spec)
4 - do i need fans on the ESC and Motor to run this hottie ?
5 - if i get new tires, must i trim them, or can i just raise the axels ?
6 - can i use a spare Big Bore from my Durango DEX 410 as center shock ?
7 - for a mid/low grip outdoor asphalt track, what would be good starting points for:
a. mid shock oil and shock ?
b. front and rear tires hardness ? Is tire grip lotion a must ?
5 - if i get new tires, must i trim them, or can i just raise the axels ?
6 - can i use a spare Big Bore from my Durango DEX 410 as center shock ?
7 - for a mid/low grip outdoor asphalt track, what would be good starting points for:
a. mid shock oil and shock ?
b. front and rear tires hardness ? Is tire grip lotion a must ?
c. side absorber oil (the ones that came with or without springs in the old RC10) ?
d. should i put springs in the side shocks ?

Thanks for your help! (again!)
Body you can find at
Hk-modellbau.de

Then your questions:
1 - can i use the same hubs and rear pod ?
Normally you will need another pod plate with wider holes to go to 235 mm and/or wider hubs
2 - i am lacking the metal bar that spaces the 2 front hubs, is that important ?
Not essential, without you will normally have a bit less steering
3 - what sort of motor can i put to work with my ESC (LRP Sphere - TC Spec)
Check the manual of your esc. If you can run a 10.5t that is a good starting point.
4 - do i need fans on the ESC and Motor to run this hottie ?
Yes on both if you are able to push the car. Depends on your skill. But can start without if you measure the temp during the run. Keep max temp below 60° or switch to fans
5 - if i get new tires, must i trim them, or can i just raise the axels ?
Just raise the axles. Tires up to 64mm are no problem but remember that gearing needs to be correct.
6 - can i use a spare Big Bore from my Durango DEX 410 as center shock ?
Don't know that shock but if it fits then you can try
7 - for a mid/low grip outdoor asphalt track, what would be good starting points for:
a. mid shock oil and shock ?
40w oil, soft to medium spring
b. front and rear tires hardness ? Is tire grip lotion a must ?
Rear 32 or 34 shore, front 38 shore if indeed low to med grip. Tire lotion is certainly a must.
c. side absorber oil (the ones that came with or without springs in the old RC10) ?
Would try 40w also
d. should i put springs in the side shocks ?
Yes use soft to medium springs

Hope this helps :-)
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Old 06-25-2017, 03:35 PM
  #4268  
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Well ... news ...
I couldnt find a way to fit it since i do need a broader rear pod!

I do, however have an almost new (and with original box) corally SP 10, which was 235
with some extra pod and this is a 235 one. I have a couple of spare graphite axels, and diffs, so i am thinking of putting the corally motor mount on the 235 but for that i will need to cut an aluminium hub a bit bigger that the rc10 one.
I have to ask a friends help, but i think it is worth the work.

Do you think this makes sense ?

I will feed you back!


Another question:
What is the adequate sale price of a Corally SP 10 with box and some spares ?
Aluminum chassis and all rest is (i think) black graphite and aluminum
hub (mounted on 2 graphite plates)

Thanks
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Old 06-25-2017, 10:36 PM
  #4269  
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You can give it a go. Post some pictures as you go along. Many people still use the corally so it is normally a good starting point.
Price is hard to say since it is an old kit and spare parts are hard to get. So i think you will have a tough time selling it.
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Old 06-26-2017, 12:27 AM
  #4270  
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I think you would be better off with a more recent type car. One where the parts are better to get.
We don't break many parts but IF we break something...
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Old 07-04-2017, 08:07 AM
  #4271  
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Hi guys!

I am from Portugal, and not allowed to post in the sales forum because i dont have 90 posts yet so, sorry for using this thread. However, just picking up possible interested party for a vintage Corally SP10 NV in good condition, with alu chassis and remaining parts in graphite. Also have some spare graphite axels and one spare diff, box, manuals, a set of tires and many spares. If anyone is interested please drop me a line i can send pictures via mail or something. I am also open for possible trades.

No fixed price (so, open for offers)... For reference only, the price i saw on eBay of last sold unit was of about 300 USD.
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Old 07-04-2017, 08:10 AM
  #4272  
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In any case, if someone finds the above post abusive, just let me know and i will remove it. No need to report me

Just because i abandoned the idea of building the 235 by myself, and am going with Joosts suggestion of getting myself a more recent car with available parts... maybe even will buy Spillertwo's Roche car if i am able to sell this Corally ... Also i think some people will like to have this corally for collection purposes since it´s a vintage car, kind of rare on eBay.

Cheers !
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Old 07-04-2017, 01:42 PM
  #4273  
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Old RC10L's are easy to find for cheap and parts are easy to get. It's a simple way to get into them. I've got a 10L and a narrower 10Lss. The downside is that you'll want to use saddle packs but they are fun.
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Old 07-04-2017, 05:48 PM
  #4274  
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Hi

I have one of those an RC10L3 i guess, bought it used and then another car for parts so i do have quite a lot of spares. As i wrote previously on this thread, i even own a 235 mm carbon chassis (dont know if original, but looks like it) and was trying to assemble it (cause i think i also have the wide axel) but i dont have a wide enough rear pod to put it, and dont want to just place spacers on the axel to broaden the chassis ... specially since its a graphite axel.

I could and am sticking to it, its my pan car that i am using (trying to) but i guess i would like to try a different chassis. I will keep this one of course, just not the corally (i never used it, came with one of my RC10L3 acquisitions :P )

And instead of getting the rest upgrade parts to make my rc10 a 235mm (rear hub possibly, dont know if also t bar and such) i thought getting a 235 on its own would make more sense. Also, most old parts i can only get them on eBay and some are actually more expensive than the same spares for more recent cars hahaha. for instance, side springs

Anyway, maybe this RC10L3 is better in asphalt than some more recent cars (?)
I ordered some new tires from austria, should arrive soon, not sure if they are good or not for the purpose:

FRONT PAN CAR 37 RC MODEL TIRES 7,80 EUR
REAR PAN CAR 30 RC MODEL TIRES 7.80 EUR
What do you think for low/mid grip asphalt ?

Anyway thanks for helping out
Look forward to get your feedback!

Originally Posted by fredswain
Old RC10L's are easy to find for cheap and parts are easy to get. It's a simple way to get into them. I've got a 10L and a narrower 10Lss. The downside is that you'll want to use saddle packs but they are fun.
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Old 07-17-2017, 07:06 PM
  #4275  
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Just finishing up my Capricorn 235mm and wondering what would be a good safe starting point for roll out on a 2S 13.5T Blinky car. Thanks!
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