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Old 10-25-2011, 06:23 AM   #376
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Default Shock build

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Originally Posted by drbelleville View Post
Kensei,

Also RPM used to offer clip on shock limiters, they along with an o-ring pre-installed on the shock shaft will work too. The clips come in various lengths and as such you will not need to disassemble your shock should you need to limit your travel.
Thanks for the info.
Can more than one clip-on be installed on the shock shaft?
The part about the o-ring I don't understand.
What o-ring?
Where is it installed on the shockshaft?
What does it do?
Do I have to install it on the shockshaft before I screw the ball end on?

Any comments on the lengthening of the shock and the spring collar?
The spring collar isn't Corally. The aluminum looking part wouldn't fit on that.
What is that part anyways? Is it some kind of stand off with a female on the shock side and mail on he ball end side?
Have been looking around, but they are all hex. Not that easy to get as it seems.

I am thinking of not bothering anymore and just go with 2S Stickpack LiPo. Imo that's where it is going with pro10 235mm in future, if and when this raceclass survives.
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Old 10-25-2011, 06:41 AM   #377
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Old 10-25-2011, 07:59 AM   #378
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2wdrive View Post
Here is a step by step explanation for the teflon tape.
http://markpayneblog.blogspot.com/se...0Plate%20Trick

Indeed, you should use a touringcar shock. The L2 came with an associated B4 buggy front shock. The springs work on a Tamiya TRF shock as well. I bought the associated oval/onroad spring kit which include the B4 front buggy spring; black, green and silver spring. Those are the only three springs you need.
Will the TRF shock be the right length for the L2 or do you use the L2 shock shaft in the TRF shock body?
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Old 10-25-2011, 09:07 AM   #379
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@ Kensei or frenelum or the other name you went under at the german and dutch forum where you were banned. Indeed why bother.



@Gramm. It is a normal trf shock and piston. I only use the associated springs and they fit ok.
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Last edited by 2wdrive; 10-25-2011 at 10:08 AM.
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Old 11-02-2011, 05:32 PM   #380
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Default D ring conversion?

Hi Guys,

trying to get a couple of old RC10Ls together.

Can you file old style hubs to take D rings? I have so many sets of aftermarket hubs seems like a waste to not use them?

Is it possible to just tape in some lipo saddle packs?

I tried to contact powellracingcomponents.com for max 10 details with no reply, do they still make them?

thanks Spence
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Old 11-02-2011, 05:40 PM   #381
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This is what I have so far.

Old 10L chassis, dynamic strut front, L2 post brace, litespeed/motormount heat sink, I think a composite craft rear brace...

I just got a high downforce Peugeot body and some Jaco foams. I remember back in the day we would true them down to about 1mm of foam! I don't have a truer though so will run them the stock height for now.

It's very similar to the car I raced in '92, I haven't driven one since then either! trying to get up to speed with all this new brushless stuff I used to run a 13x4 mainly. I will be using my old Futaba 3PB though!
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Pro 10: 235mm Le Mans Prototype Pan Car Discussion-img_1455.jpg  
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Old 11-03-2011, 02:08 AM   #382
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a few months ago i bought a second hand car and the previous owner filed the diff hub to take D-rings so it is possible to do that.

Nontheless i replaced it with an IRS axle and hubs. (i still had IRS hubs laying around) They are more precise and the spur is run with a bearing instead of putting the spur on the aluminium piece of the old axle.

Powell RC stopt making parts from end of last year. I too had orderd a max10 as a spare chassis but got a full refund.

That aftermarket chassis brace looks pretty sturdy going a little bit along the chassis. Maybe an idea for a DIY project for my L2. This year a saddlepack split in two parts when my car was rammed in the side.

For outdoors there is no need to true the tires down that much. I run the tires almost straight out of the package. I skim 1mm off the tires as it is the biggest i can fit under a peugeot body. So i start with 61mm.
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Old 11-03-2011, 05:22 AM   #383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spence88mph View Post
This is what I have so far.

Old 10L chassis, dynamic strut front, L2 post brace, litespeed/motormount heat sink, I think a composite craft rear brace...

I just got a high downforce Peugeot body and some Jaco foams. I remember back in the day we would true them down to about 1mm of foam! I don't have a truer though so will run them the stock height for now.

It's very similar to the car I raced in '92, I haven't driven one since then either! trying to get up to speed with all this new brushless stuff I used to run a 13x4 mainly. I will be using my old Futaba 3PB though!
Hi, nice car you have there. I'm running RC10L2 too, using 3s 2200mah lipo, 5.5turn brushless. hitting speed up to 72mph! these cars still run well despite its age. This thread has alot of nice people that had helped me in setting up my car.

my post: http://www.rctech.net/forum/9579601-post237.html
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Old 11-03-2011, 05:33 AM   #384
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Default RC10L4 titanium rear axle

Hello

i have a old RC10L4 ,i want to swap carbon axle with a titanium or steel...

Someone know if some aftermarket exist?

Thks
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Old 11-03-2011, 08:27 AM   #385
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Thanks a lot 2wdrive and ses414.

Quote:
For outdoors there is no need to true the tires down that much. I run the tires almost straight out of the package. I skim 1mm off the tires as it is the biggest i can fit under a peugeot body. So i start with 61mm.
OK great, back in 92 there was a team associated sponsored racer over here, I can't remember his name but he was very fast, one thing I noticed was how low he ran his tires they almost looked like they were on the rim and it was on asphalt. Anyway thanks again!
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Old 11-03-2011, 09:14 AM   #386
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In '92 With nicad cells and modified motors it could be an advantage to run very small tires as runtime was an issue. With small tires rotating mass would be less.

Now fast forward with brushless and big mAh lipo's there is no problem in outdoor applications and the difference between big and small tires is not so big imo.
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Old 11-03-2011, 06:42 PM   #387
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That explains the tires, thanks.

Amongst my pan car parts collection, I found this, it is the same width as a wide 10L hub but seems to have a groove machined in it, comparing it to the IRS hub on their site it's similar but not the same, will this work with an IRS D drive shaft and d drive rings? Sorry about all the questions.
Attached Thumbnails
Pro 10: 235mm Le Mans Prototype Pan Car Discussion-img_2256.jpg   Pro 10: 235mm Le Mans Prototype Pan Car Discussion-img_2487.jpg  
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Old 11-03-2011, 07:02 PM   #388
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Looks like it will. When racing out of production cars, the method to use is Try it and See!!
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Old 11-04-2011, 01:59 AM   #389
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Looks like a D-drive hub indeed. From the picture I'd say it is an (old) IRS hub but like Lonny said, just try it...
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Old 11-05-2011, 05:15 PM   #390
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what front end springs do you guys recommend? i currently have 0.022" on the car and i thought i read somewhere guys recommend the 0.020" springs.
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