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Pro 10: 235mm Le Mans Prototype Pan Car Discussion

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Old 10-20-2016, 10:49 AM
  #3856  
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Tell us your set-up. i.e. springs, camber, caster, shock and tweak tube oil, tires and etc.
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Old 10-20-2016, 11:17 AM
  #3857  
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Honestlly I am brand new to pan cars.It is a box stock car, I was just wondering where to start, I know nothing of tuning dampner tubes or side springs

off hand
front springs are .18
side springs are gold
center spring is gold 35wt
camber at -2
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Old 10-20-2016, 11:19 AM
  #3858  
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What type of surface will you be racing on? Asphalt or carpet?
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Old 10-20-2016, 11:43 AM
  #3859  
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carpet, front and rear tires sauced full, It drives good I just have to wait too long for it to turn and slow down a lot.
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Old 10-20-2016, 11:46 AM
  #3860  
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You can adjust track wide at the front from what i can see and rather easy.
It uses the same design front end(the bottum that is) as an Associated.
You can put a spacer ring between the lower arm and the bulkhead to widen the track.
The front brace isn't affected that way and if you want to go real wide, you need longer turnbuckles in the top arms.

Regards Roy
Pic is from Associated front end but Roche uses same setup.



Originally Posted by foampervert
I recommend this kit to all Pro10 fans! the car is super adjustable... although the front end is a bit mystifying (front end tread width is meant to be adjustable, but front brace prevents this adjustment... oh well)

fit and finish is top notch! sweet cnc'ed alu and carbon galore! if you're CDO (that's extreme OCD) like me, you'll be spending a nice amount of time glueing carbon edges... cos there are a lot... a lot of carbon.

Although i'd also like to own a VIP or RCDevil car, this is the most satisfyingly complex pan car (read as well designed... except the front end tread adjustment).

-Alexander
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Old 10-20-2016, 11:54 AM
  #3861  
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Here is a general set-up to start with:
Front springs: .020
Tweak Springs: .022
Center spring: Blue
shock oil: 40wt.
Tweak tube: 20k
Caster: 4 degress
Reactive Caster: 5 degree block
Camber: +1 degress
Toe-in: 1 degress
Ride height: 4-5mm
Tires: WGT SPec, Front: 54.0mm, Rear: 54.55mm
Motor: 13.5
Rollout: 78-86mm
Sauce: Rear-full, Front-half
Servo: Futaba S9650 or equivalent
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Old 10-25-2016, 06:07 AM
  #3862  
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just thought i would share a picture of my car and ready to do some racing.

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Old 10-25-2016, 06:10 AM
  #3863  
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NICE!!!

Don't forget to open the rear slots in the wing...
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Old 10-27-2016, 03:45 PM
  #3864  
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Was kinda hoping for CRC to come out with a 235mm kit by now. From my calculations, they would have to make all of 3 new parts: extended 3mm front plate like the genxt10SE but wider that lines up with the 6 holes on the genx10rt chassis or the 4 holes on the genx10se chassis, an extended left side hub (extended right side hub already exists from Battle Axe), and a longer front end brace. Every other part can be sourced from existing their 1/10 and 1/12 scale kits, voila 235mm kit. Unless of course a wider rear pod or new aluminum chassis is in order. I mean you could redesign a whole new car, but seriously, 3 new parts would do!
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Old 10-27-2016, 04:07 PM
  #3865  
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Originally Posted by hydro18679
Was kinda hoping for CRC to come out with a 235mm kit by now. From my calculations, they would have to make all of 3 new parts: extended 3mm front plate like the genxt10SE but wider that lines up with the 6 holes on the genx10rt chassis or the 4 holes on the genx10se chassis, an extended left side hub (extended right side hub already exists from Battle Axe), and a longer front end brace. Every other part can be sourced from existing their 1/10 and 1/12 scale kits, voila 235mm kit. Unless of course a wider rear pod or new aluminum chassis is in order. I mean you could redesign a whole new car, but seriously, 3 new parts would do!
A kit somewhat like this one?

https://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules....prodID=7719021
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Old 10-27-2016, 09:35 PM
  #3866  
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Don't use that kit.
It is horrible.
Problems with vibrations on the rear axle and when you try to set it up, you keep up ending with to little steering.
They need to redesign the car from scratch and build a proper 235MM car.

Regards Roy

Originally Posted by pphaneuf
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Old 10-28-2016, 01:39 AM
  #3867  
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You also say "Yes use the front parts of this kit and put the rear extenders to the bin... Buy an IRS axle instead!"
;-)
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Old 10-28-2016, 03:35 AM
  #3868  
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Okay, okay, don't use the axle/hub extenders.
I am never happy with a chassis that uses a front suspension plate.
I rather run a chassis that is designed to accept the front suspension directly on the chassis.

Regards Roy




Originally Posted by Airwave
You also say "Yes use the front parts of this kit and put the rear extenders to the bin... Buy an IRS axle instead!"
;-)
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Old 10-28-2016, 05:38 AM
  #3869  
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That's a very interesting point!
It is always a dilemma for me... I'm not what are the pro and the cons of the system...

where you are fixing the front suspension directly on the chassis, it means that you have to provide some "spacers" to adjust the ride height... But I also suppose that if you are cutting your own chassis, you can cut your own "spacers" :-)
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Old 10-28-2016, 06:24 AM
  #3870  
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I can use the same spacers on all the chassis i am running at the moment.
This because i use the Associated R5 based front suspension on all of them.
This provides me too use less different spare pars but it is useble on all chassis.

Regards Roy


Originally Posted by Airwave
That's a very interesting point!
It is always a dilemma for me... I'm not what are the pro and the cons of the system...

where you are fixing the front suspension directly on the chassis, it means that you have to provide some "spacers" to adjust the ride height... But I also suppose that if you are cutting your own chassis, you can cut your own "spacers" :-)
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