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Old 10-21-2011, 05:30 PM   #361
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I was watching that car on ebay also. Looks like you got it for a good price. My understanding is that the 10l2 is a 235mm car already and won't need anything to run in the class. That said if you're familiar with pan cars you'll probably already know to check that nothing is bent or tweaked and everything moves freely. Not sure you'll need too many upgrades really. A new body and tyres, some spares if you can find them and you're away.
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Old 10-21-2011, 05:41 PM   #362
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I asked in another thread, does anybody have a setup for 10.5 with novak kinetic in a pro10.
I think all esc at this moment work more or less the same if the novak uses boost and turbo.
If you use a motor that isn't a LRP x12 you can use the following setup as a base. It is with a hobbywing esc but i used to have roughly the same settings with a tekin esc. Just measure temps every 2 minutes

6000 start rpm
end rpm 20.000
40-45boost
10 turbo
rollout on a 1/8 track roughly 40mm.

It should go quite fast with normal operating temperatures (50-65 C) in 7 minutes race. Suit to your liking.

On a small electric track i used:
40-50 boost with 36mm rollout. No turbo
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Old 10-21-2011, 05:50 PM   #363
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Originally Posted by m@_c View Post
I was watching that car on ebay also. Looks like you got it for a good price. My understanding is that the 10l2 is a 235mm car already and won't need anything to run in the class. That said if you're familiar with pan cars you'll probably already know to check that nothing is bent or tweaked and everything moves freely. Not sure you'll need too many upgrades really. A new body and tyres, some spares if you can find them and you're away.
i know i need the basics. once i get the car i will look it over and replace anything that needs it. i was looking for info on things like, do i need to upgrade the center shock and to which one? do i need to upgrade the rear pod side plates and to which ones? what about the top plate of the rear pod, does it need upgraded or will that style of damper be ok? from what i've read in this thread, pink fronts and purple rears will be a good starting point for tires on asphalt? what spring setup should be a good starting point on the car?
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Old 10-21-2011, 08:34 PM   #364
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i know i need the basics. once i get the car i will look it over and replace anything that needs it. i was looking for info on things like, do i need to upgrade the center shock and to which one? do i need to upgrade the rear pod side plates and to which ones? what about the top plate of the rear pod, does it need upgraded or will that style of damper be ok? from what i've read in this thread, pink fronts and purple rears will be a good starting point for tires on asphalt? what spring setup should be a good starting point on the car?
The opposite. Purple fronts, pink rears. Depending on motor and battery configuration will dictate a lot of your setup... I run a very simla car. Prc Max 10 (basically a rc10 l3 if they made it) 30 wt in the center damper pod level. I had to add lead ballast to my car as lip is sooo much lighter than the nmh the car was designed for. Get it sorted out and lets go from there.. oh yea silver spring for starters.
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Old 10-22-2011, 09:02 AM   #365
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Some might disagree but i would get a TRF shock or something similar. It works better then the old asso shock imo. Put some teflon tape on the topplate where the friction disks are. That is pretty much it. You can drive it the way it is.
where can i get the shock you recommend?

what type of teflon tape should i use and how to install it? the only teflon tape i know of is the type you use to seal threads.
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Old 10-22-2011, 09:05 AM   #366
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and for tires i should use purple fronts and pink rears? i plan to use bsr tires if it makes a difference.
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Old 10-22-2011, 11:12 AM   #367
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Good starting point indeed.

regards Roy

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and for tires i should use purple fronts and pink rears? i plan to use bsr tires if it makes a difference.
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Old 10-22-2011, 02:33 PM   #368
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Be carefull with BRS tires. The pinks from BSR are softer then the pink from Jaco. When using BSR go for the double pink. The same for the purple. BSR double purple is roughly the same as purple from jaco. You can read it on BSR's website.
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Old 10-22-2011, 03:21 PM   #369
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well let me ask this then, what brand tires do you guys recommend and what colors in that brand?

jaco= pink and purple

bsr= double pink and double purple

etc...
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Old 10-23-2011, 06:42 AM   #370
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where can i get the shock you recommend?

what type of teflon tape should i use and how to install it? the only teflon tape i know of is the type you use to seal threads.
TRF= Tamiya Racing Factory schok. You can buy it everywhere.

The teflontape is a teflon coated tape. Not to seal threads with but the ones that are teflon on one side and glue/sticky part on the other. Similar with doublesided tape but on one side there is teflon. It is quite expensive, you have to buy a roll and you only use a small piece. It is used in industrial applications.

I placed an add on a local RC forum and I got some small pieces from someone that worked in a company that makes furniture.
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Old 10-23-2011, 10:29 AM   #371
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do i stick the teflon tape to the pod plate, damper disc, or both?

should the shock be from a touring car or something?
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Old 10-23-2011, 11:49 AM   #372
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Here is a step by step explanation for the teflon tape.
http://markpayneblog.blogspot.com/se...0Plate%20Trick

Indeed, you should use a touringcar shock. The L2 came with an associated B4 buggy front shock. The springs work on a Tamiya TRF shock as well. I bought the associated oval/onroad spring kit which include the B4 front buggy spring; black, green and silver spring. Those are the only three springs you need.
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Last edited by 2wdrive; 10-23-2011 at 12:11 PM.
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Old 10-24-2011, 02:05 AM   #373
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Default Shock assembly

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2 times 1s lipo is difficult. You can put in a 2s saddlepack but not sure if two 1s 1/12 lipo's will fit without drilling a hole. I do see another screw hole a little further forwards in the middle of the chassis. So maybe that is something you could use to fix a shock post..

Here is a picture from the car of mathijs (pro10holland) with his solution for fitting a 2s saddlepack. (hope you don't mind mathijs )

Thanks for the pic.
As to the shock:
- at the ball end side there is some sort of lengthening device used?
- on the other side of the spring collar there is a red tubing of some sort. What might that be? It looks as if the inward movement of the shock is limited by mounting some kind of tubing (the red one I mean).
What is the thought behind this? To avoid too much inward shock movement? To avoid the threaded side of the pivot ball on the damper plate touching the lipo? To avoid the chassisplate scraping the track when inward shock movement takes place? Is it some kind of downstop fixation?
And what is the red tube made of? Is it plastic or metal? Is it threaded?
- the spring collar doesn't look as if it's from Corally?

Last edited by Kensei; 10-24-2011 at 02:33 AM.
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Old 10-24-2011, 05:19 AM   #374
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This is a nitro tube, thats placed over the shock piston.
This is used to stop the chassis from touching the ground under downforce.
So that the chassis is not damaged, on high speed tracks.
We usually make the tube so long that we have 2mm of ground clearance, when the chassis is pressed down.
Indeed a downstop.
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Old 10-24-2011, 09:59 PM   #375
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
Thanks for the pic.
As to the shock:
- at the ball end side there is some sort of lengthening device used?
- on the other side of the spring collar there is a red tubing of some sort. What might that be? It looks as if the inward movement of the shock is limited by mounting some kind of tubing (the red one I mean).
What is the thought behind this? To avoid too much inward shock movement? To avoid the threaded side of the pivot ball on the damper plate touching the lipo? To avoid the chassisplate scraping the track when inward shock movement takes place? Is it some kind of downstop fixation?
And what is the red tube made of? Is it plastic or metal? Is it threaded?
- the spring collar doesn't look as if it's from Corally?
Kensei,

Also RPM used to offer clip on shock limiters, they along with an o-ring pre-installed on the shock shaft will work too. The clips come in various lengths and as such you will not need to disassemble your shock should you need to limit your travel.
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