1568LikesPro 10: 235mm Le Mans Prototype Pan Car Discussion
08-28-2011, 08:37 PM
#241
Thanks Phil
To explain that picture... that was the pro10 class during our national race today.
Too bad my brushed esc was short circuit due to water that got inside the balloon. I only needed 1 lap to finish third place total....... my esc fried during the 2 practise laps just before the start... DOH!
To explain that picture... that was the pro10 class during our national race today.
Too bad my brushed esc was short circuit due to water that got inside the balloon. I only needed 1 lap to finish third place total....... my esc fried during the 2 practise laps just before the start... DOH!
08-29-2011, 12:55 PM
#244
Mathijs it look more like a speed boat 
08-29-2011, 10:43 PM
#246
interested, we run when the rain starts.... and that is a bad thing as it usually rains alot during our very short summer..
could you give us all a good explanation as to how you have protected your electronics and what wheels and stuff you use for a rain-race?
Thanks!
/Johnny, Ostersund Sweden
08-30-2011, 02:23 AM
#247
Mathijs
do you have a picture from your rain car? It´s always interesting seeing the different solutions.
do you have a picture from your rain car? It´s always interesting seeing the different solutions.
08-30-2011, 10:46 PM
#250
08-30-2011, 10:59 PM
#251
Some important notes to my rain car:
- Motor runs sensorless. Sensors + water =
- Motor is otherwise unprotected (no need).
- Receiver and ESC are mounted on 4 layers of servo tape. It allows some water to enter the box before I get into troubles.
- The box is sealed with duckt tape and filles with either paper towels or water absorption bags you find in the packaging of most electrical apparatas you buy.
- Rollout is to the moon (>57mm) because of sensorless mode. In really heavy rain I have to gear down because of the added drag.
- Ride height is around 7-8mm. I found out I will need even more in monsoon conditions.
- Diff is tightened to the point of almost completely locked. Water lets you diff slip really easily.
- Servo is an old Futaba 9650 with its seems sealed with tape and thick grease on the shaft.
- After running my car, I put a drop of oil on each bearing and spin it to avoid rust. The rest I dry of as good as possible. Expect to change diff balls often as they rust easily.
- Chassis setup is almost irrelevant in the rain. Just make sure everything is straight. Finetuning you can forget. It is all grandma-style driving in the rain.
My car survived 10 minutes of monsoon conditions last weekend with only a couple of drops of water in the electronics box. I was quite impressed!
It is not so much a matter of being hardcore, it is more a matter of wanting to have fun racing even when it rains. And it rains often here.
- Motor runs sensorless. Sensors + water =
- Motor is otherwise unprotected (no need).
- Receiver and ESC are mounted on 4 layers of servo tape. It allows some water to enter the box before I get into troubles.
- The box is sealed with duckt tape and filles with either paper towels or water absorption bags you find in the packaging of most electrical apparatas you buy.
- Rollout is to the moon (>57mm) because of sensorless mode. In really heavy rain I have to gear down because of the added drag.
- Ride height is around 7-8mm. I found out I will need even more in monsoon conditions.
- Diff is tightened to the point of almost completely locked. Water lets you diff slip really easily.
- Servo is an old Futaba 9650 with its seems sealed with tape and thick grease on the shaft.
- After running my car, I put a drop of oil on each bearing and spin it to avoid rust. The rest I dry of as good as possible. Expect to change diff balls often as they rust easily.
- Chassis setup is almost irrelevant in the rain. Just make sure everything is straight. Finetuning you can forget. It is all grandma-style driving in the rain.
My car survived 10 minutes of monsoon conditions last weekend with only a couple of drops of water in the electronics box. I was quite impressed!
It is not so much a matter of being hardcore, it is more a matter of wanting to have fun racing even when it rains. And it rains often here.
08-30-2011, 11:11 PM
#252
The bearings of my front wheels were all gone bad after the try out last sunday. There was no movement in them what so ever. I gues waiting till the next day to clean or oil them is a sure way to let them rust. 
Movies say more then pictures. Mathijs in the rain with his Corally 10X NG during our rained out clubrace 3 weeks or so ago.
Movies say more then pictures. Mathijs in the rain with his Corally 10X NG during our rained out clubrace 3 weeks or so ago.
| + YouTube Video | |
| + YouTube Video | |
08-31-2011, 12:06 AM
#253
Some important notes to my rain car:
- Motor runs sensorless. Sensors + water =
- Motor is otherwise unprotected (no need).
- Receiver and ESC are mounted on 4 layers of servo tape. It allows some water to enter the box before I get into troubles.
- The box is sealed with duckt tape and filles with either paper towels or water absorption bags you find in the packaging of most electrical apparatas you buy.
- Rollout is to the moon (>57mm) because of sensorless mode. In really heavy rain I have to gear down because of the added drag.
- Ride height is around 7-8mm. I found out I will need even more in monsoon conditions.
- Diff is tightened to the point of almost completely locked. Water lets you diff slip really easily.
- Servo is an old Futaba 9650 with its seems sealed with tape and thick grease on the shaft.
- After running my car, I put a drop of oil on each bearing and spin it to avoid rust. The rest I dry of as good as possible. Expect to change diff balls often as they rust easily.
- Chassis setup is almost irrelevant in the rain. Just make sure everything is straight. Finetuning you can forget. It is all grandma-style driving in the rain.
My car survived 10 minutes of monsoon conditions last weekend with only a couple of drops of water in the electronics box. I was quite impressed!
It is not so much a matter of being hardcore, it is more a matter of wanting to have fun racing even when it rains. And it rains often here.
- Motor runs sensorless. Sensors + water =
- Motor is otherwise unprotected (no need).
- Receiver and ESC are mounted on 4 layers of servo tape. It allows some water to enter the box before I get into troubles.
- The box is sealed with duckt tape and filles with either paper towels or water absorption bags you find in the packaging of most electrical apparatas you buy.
- Rollout is to the moon (>57mm) because of sensorless mode. In really heavy rain I have to gear down because of the added drag.
- Ride height is around 7-8mm. I found out I will need even more in monsoon conditions.
- Diff is tightened to the point of almost completely locked. Water lets you diff slip really easily.
- Servo is an old Futaba 9650 with its seems sealed with tape and thick grease on the shaft.
- After running my car, I put a drop of oil on each bearing and spin it to avoid rust. The rest I dry of as good as possible. Expect to change diff balls often as they rust easily.
- Chassis setup is almost irrelevant in the rain. Just make sure everything is straight. Finetuning you can forget. It is all grandma-style driving in the rain.
My car survived 10 minutes of monsoon conditions last weekend with only a couple of drops of water in the electronics box. I was quite impressed!
It is not so much a matter of being hardcore, it is more a matter of wanting to have fun racing even when it rains. And it rains often here.
lots of good advice, now I know more on rain proofing cars.
looks like a special rain-car is a good chooice!
We have similar conditions here lots of rain in a normal summer.
now, were do I find a used pro10 car?
08-31-2011, 02:25 AM
#254
rain car
Some important notes to my rain car:
- Motor runs sensorless. Sensors + water =
- Motor is otherwise unprotected (no need).
- Receiver and ESC are mounted on 4 layers of servo tape. It allows some water to enter the box before I get into troubles.
- The box is sealed with duckt tape and filles with either paper towels or water absorption bags you find in the packaging of most electrical apparatas you buy.
- Rollout is to the moon (>57mm) because of sensorless mode. In really heavy rain I have to gear down because of the added drag.
- Ride height is around 7-8mm. I found out I will need even more in monsoon conditions.
- Diff is tightened to the point of almost completely locked. Water lets you diff slip really easily.
- Servo is an old Futaba 9650 with its seems sealed with tape and thick grease on the shaft.
- After running my car, I put a drop of oil on each bearing and spin it to avoid rust. The rest I dry of as good as possible. Expect to change diff balls often as they rust easily.
- Chassis setup is almost irrelevant in the rain. Just make sure everything is straight. Finetuning you can forget. It is all grandma-style driving in the rain.
My car survived 10 minutes of monsoon conditions last weekend with only a couple of drops of water in the electronics box. I was quite impressed!
It is not so much a matter of being hardcore, it is more a matter of wanting to have fun racing even when it rains. And it rains often here.
- Motor runs sensorless. Sensors + water =
- Motor is otherwise unprotected (no need).
- Receiver and ESC are mounted on 4 layers of servo tape. It allows some water to enter the box before I get into troubles.
- The box is sealed with duckt tape and filles with either paper towels or water absorption bags you find in the packaging of most electrical apparatas you buy.
- Rollout is to the moon (>57mm) because of sensorless mode. In really heavy rain I have to gear down because of the added drag.
- Ride height is around 7-8mm. I found out I will need even more in monsoon conditions.
- Diff is tightened to the point of almost completely locked. Water lets you diff slip really easily.
- Servo is an old Futaba 9650 with its seems sealed with tape and thick grease on the shaft.
- After running my car, I put a drop of oil on each bearing and spin it to avoid rust. The rest I dry of as good as possible. Expect to change diff balls often as they rust easily.
- Chassis setup is almost irrelevant in the rain. Just make sure everything is straight. Finetuning you can forget. It is all grandma-style driving in the rain.
My car survived 10 minutes of monsoon conditions last weekend with only a couple of drops of water in the electronics box. I was quite impressed!
It is not so much a matter of being hardcore, it is more a matter of wanting to have fun racing even when it rains. And it rains often here.
I take it they are not foam....
08-31-2011, 02:39 AM
#255
He's using tamiya caps.