Pro 10: 235mm Le Mans Prototype Pan Car Discussion
#2176
Tech Regular
iTrader: (28)
In case you guys are interested. Have to clean out the closet, way too many 235mm bodies.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post14020091
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post14020091
#2177
Tech Regular
Hi,
I'm looking for Team IRS rear axle components, but the link in my favorits does not seem to work anymore. Are they still in business? If not, where to I shop for these items now?
Cheers,
Hugo
I'm looking for Team IRS rear axle components, but the link in my favorits does not seem to work anymore. Are they still in business? If not, where to I shop for these items now?
Cheers,
Hugo
#2179
Tech Apprentice
Hey guys a friend of mine gave me this 235mm pro10, i think is an associated RC10 L2, but not really sure.
I need a rear axle and irs2101 maybe will fit, can someone confirm it? Not in the picture but i've both right and left hubs original associated.
Thanks in advance, i need your help.
I need a rear axle and irs2101 maybe will fit, can someone confirm it? Not in the picture but i've both right and left hubs original associated.
Thanks in advance, i need your help.
#2180
Hey guys a friend of mine gave me this 235mm pro10, i think is an associated RC10 L2, but not really sure.
I need a rear axle and irs2101 maybe will fit, can someone confirm it? Not in the picture but i've both right and left hubs original associated.
Thanks in advance, i need your help.
I need a rear axle and irs2101 maybe will fit, can someone confirm it? Not in the picture but i've both right and left hubs original associated.
Thanks in advance, i need your help.
http://www.muddslidemotorsports.com/1grproaxkitf.html
BTW.... That looks like a 10L with the dynamic front end
#2181
Gearing/ Rollout Help
I will be running 10.5t no-boost and 2s battery, what would be a good starting gearing/ rollout?
My ESC recommends and FDR of 5.0 to 6.5 which would give me a rollout of 37.68-28.98 with new tires. Track size 143x60
My ESC recommends and FDR of 5.0 to 6.5 which would give me a rollout of 37.68-28.98 with new tires. Track size 143x60
#2182
Tech Apprentice
#2183
Tech Regular
Probably a debateble one, but still:
I see a lot of older design cars with the fibre glass T-bar, and the more modern cars with the long side arms holding the pod. This makes me believe the T-bar is less good. However, looking at racing for instance in the Formula one classes here in the Netherlands, the T-bar is still very popular. What is the big difference, it is really a step forward to use the arms and not the T-bar, or also a matter of taste / prefference?
Cheers,
Hugo
I see a lot of older design cars with the fibre glass T-bar, and the more modern cars with the long side arms holding the pod. This makes me believe the T-bar is less good. However, looking at racing for instance in the Formula one classes here in the Netherlands, the T-bar is still very popular. What is the big difference, it is really a step forward to use the arms and not the T-bar, or also a matter of taste / prefference?
Cheers,
Hugo
#2184
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
T-bar is easier to setup then link but can be tweaked when hit hard on the rear.
Also when being hit from the side, a t-bar can break and links don't have that.
With a t-bar you run a softer centre spring due to the fact that the t-bar also functions as a spring.
I for myself prefer a T-bar in a F1 car instead of a link system.
Look at the latest Tamiya F1, it has a t-bar design again.
The Exotek F1R2 has both designs in 1 car.
The centre pivot ball from the rearpod is mounted on a T-bar type contruction and that moves again with links
Regards Roy
Also when being hit from the side, a t-bar can break and links don't have that.
With a t-bar you run a softer centre spring due to the fact that the t-bar also functions as a spring.
I for myself prefer a T-bar in a F1 car instead of a link system.
Look at the latest Tamiya F1, it has a t-bar design again.
The Exotek F1R2 has both designs in 1 car.
The centre pivot ball from the rearpod is mounted on a T-bar type contruction and that moves again with links
Regards Roy
Last edited by Pro10noob; 05-27-2015 at 02:00 PM.
#2185
Hi there,
Does anybody have a vintage parma phaze one r chassis or saved pictures.
I need to rebuild some missing carbon parts for my collection.
Thanks for helping
Does anybody have a vintage parma phaze one r chassis or saved pictures.
I need to rebuild some missing carbon parts for my collection.
Thanks for helping
#2186
Yup, thats already fixed now. ( Old pics.)Saw that on different other pictures after I assembled mine.
ANd I guess its because of less mass in movement?
ANd I guess its because of less mass in movement?
I come back with this question again
I'm almost done with the build of my TRR 10R5.1 V-Link (yeah, that's how I decided to call the car ) but I still have not decided if it is better to mount the side shocks with the body upward (like on the pictures above) or with the body downward...
I was told by some guys it is better downward because the mass in movement are lower which is good for the center of gravity, but in the other hand I assume if there are some small bubles in the shocks, the piston will encounter the air first before the oil during the first mm of movement, which should not be good for consistency I guess (I don't know if it is very clear... )
I know I'd better to build my shocks without any air inside (which I do, most of the time), but you know how it goes at use
Same question for the center shock: body upward or downward?
Thanks a lot for your answers,
Regards,
G-rem
#2187
Tech Apprentice
Hi everybody friends!
Soon the kit to widening the rear pod and front plate to convert my CRC genx10 will be ready. I designed it on CAD and now is under cnc cut. Made in carbon fiber 3mm ovviously. I will post pictures to have your feedback!
Soon the kit to widening the rear pod and front plate to convert my CRC genx10 will be ready. I designed it on CAD and now is under cnc cut. Made in carbon fiber 3mm ovviously. I will post pictures to have your feedback!
#2189
Tech Adept
As the shock are mounted nearly flat, the center of gravity doesn't change very much.
Moving mass doesn't really matter either. Motor, Wheels, cables and pod are moving mass as well, so the change in moving mass will be 1% at least.
Moving mass doesn't really matter either. Motor, Wheels, cables and pod are moving mass as well, so the change in moving mass will be 1% at least.
#2190
Tech Apprentice
You're right. But even 1% is important on every race car, in scale 1:1 or 1:10 or all other. So in my opinion is question of choice. Consider that if you mount it upside down yiu will expose the top of the shock to the little rocks lauched by the rear tyres and you will ruin it