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Old 05-21-2015, 06:03 PM
  #2176  
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In case you guys are interested. Have to clean out the closet, way too many 235mm bodies.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post14020091
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Old 05-22-2015, 05:44 AM
  #2177  
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Hi,

I'm looking for Team IRS rear axle components, but the link in my favorits does not seem to work anymore. Are they still in business? If not, where to I shop for these items now?

Cheers,

Hugo
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Old 05-22-2015, 07:58 AM
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Hey Hugo,

IRS has retired and sold everything to mudslide.
If you look a couple of pages back, you will find the web adress.

Regards Roy



Originally Posted by HugoW
Hi,
I'm looking for Team IRS rear axle components, but the link in my favorits does not seem to work anymore. Are they still in business? If not, where to I shop for these items now?

Cheers,

Hugo
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Old 05-24-2015, 11:54 AM
  #2179  
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Hey guys a friend of mine gave me this 235mm pro10, i think is an associated RC10 L2, but not really sure.
I need a rear axle and irs2101 maybe will fit, can someone confirm it? Not in the picture but i've both right and left hubs original associated.
Thanks in advance, i need your help.



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Old 05-24-2015, 12:27 PM
  #2180  
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Originally Posted by moraccio
Hey guys a friend of mine gave me this 235mm pro10, i think is an associated RC10 L2, but not really sure.
I need a rear axle and irs2101 maybe will fit, can someone confirm it? Not in the picture but i've both right and left hubs original associated.
Thanks in advance, i need your help.
Yes, 2021 will work. You could just order the full axle kit.

http://www.muddslidemotorsports.com/1grproaxkitf.html

BTW.... That looks like a 10L with the dynamic front end
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Old 05-24-2015, 01:14 PM
  #2181  
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Default Gearing/ Rollout Help

I will be running 10.5t no-boost and 2s battery, what would be a good starting gearing/ rollout?

My ESC recommends and FDR of 5.0 to 6.5 which would give me a rollout of 37.68-28.98 with new tires. Track size 143x60
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Old 05-24-2015, 01:43 PM
  #2182  
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Ok. Thank you!

Originally Posted by TOADYY
Yes, 2021 will work. You could just order the full axle kit.

http://www.muddslidemotorsports.com/1grproaxkitf.html

BTW.... That looks like a 10L with the dynamic front end
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Old 05-26-2015, 06:39 AM
  #2183  
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Probably a debateble one, but still:

I see a lot of older design cars with the fibre glass T-bar, and the more modern cars with the long side arms holding the pod. This makes me believe the T-bar is less good. However, looking at racing for instance in the Formula one classes here in the Netherlands, the T-bar is still very popular. What is the big difference, it is really a step forward to use the arms and not the T-bar, or also a matter of taste / prefference?

Cheers,

Hugo
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Old 05-26-2015, 07:57 AM
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T-bar is easier to setup then link but can be tweaked when hit hard on the rear.
Also when being hit from the side, a t-bar can break and links don't have that.
With a t-bar you run a softer centre spring due to the fact that the t-bar also functions as a spring.
I for myself prefer a T-bar in a F1 car instead of a link system.
Look at the latest Tamiya F1, it has a t-bar design again.
The Exotek F1R2 has both designs in 1 car.
The centre pivot ball from the rearpod is mounted on a T-bar type contruction and that moves again with links

Regards Roy

Last edited by Pro10noob; 05-27-2015 at 02:00 PM.
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Old 05-27-2015, 01:53 PM
  #2185  
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Hi there,

Does anybody have a vintage parma phaze one r chassis or saved pictures.

I need to rebuild some missing carbon parts for my collection.

Thanks for helping
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Old 06-03-2015, 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by puttekula


Originally Posted by Pro10noob
From what i have been told, the side shocks should be mounted with the shock body on the wing side instead on the pod side.
Yup, thats already fixed now. ( Old pics.)Saw that on different other pictures after I assembled mine.
ANd I guess its because of less mass in movement?
Originally Posted by Joost K.
I would mount them just like that Roy... I know I will on the new car... If the mounts are long enough to clear the shocks from any moving material it's fine either way...

In my opinion the centre shock should be mounted the other way around though...
Hi all,

I come back with this question again

I'm almost done with the build of my TRR 10R5.1 V-Link (yeah, that's how I decided to call the car ) but I still have not decided if it is better to mount the side shocks with the body upward (like on the pictures above) or with the body downward...

I was told by some guys it is better downward because the mass in movement are lower which is good for the center of gravity, but in the other hand I assume if there are some small bubles in the shocks, the piston will encounter the air first before the oil during the first mm of movement, which should not be good for consistency I guess (I don't know if it is very clear... )

I know I'd better to build my shocks without any air inside (which I do, most of the time), but you know how it goes at use

Same question for the center shock: body upward or downward?

Thanks a lot for your answers,
Regards,
G-rem
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Old 06-03-2015, 11:51 PM
  #2187  
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Hi everybody friends!

Soon the kit to widening the rear pod and front plate to convert my CRC genx10 will be ready. I designed it on CAD and now is under cnc cut. Made in carbon fiber 3mm ovviously. I will post pictures to have your feedback!
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Old 06-04-2015, 03:45 AM
  #2188  
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@G-Rem...........Mount the shocks with the body on the chassis and not on the top motor mount plate so that the moving part of the shock is the lightest.
Just build your shocks without air in them.

Regards Roy
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Old 06-04-2015, 04:16 AM
  #2189  
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As the shock are mounted nearly flat, the center of gravity doesn't change very much.

Moving mass doesn't really matter either. Motor, Wheels, cables and pod are moving mass as well, so the change in moving mass will be 1% at least.
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Old 06-05-2015, 03:57 AM
  #2190  
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You're right. But even 1% is important on every race car, in scale 1:1 or 1:10 or all other. So in my opinion is question of choice. Consider that if you mount it upside down yiu will expose the top of the shock to the little rocks lauched by the rear tyres and you will ruin it
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