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Old 08-27-2014, 03:43 PM   #1711
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The front end of the 235 kit is ok but the rear extension hubs can cause vibration after some time.
Better try the LAJF kit---> http://lajf.se/pshop/index.php?id_ca...gory&id_lang=1 with a IRS axle
Speed merchant is also a option.

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Originally Posted by lagcisco View Post
Really considering a Pro10.

What do you guys think of the Speedmerchant Roadkill 10 vs CRC GenX 10SE with 235mm conversion kit?

I already have a CRC Carpet knife I'm happy with.. so I'm just a bit partial to CRC but am open to other options.
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Old 08-27-2014, 05:10 PM   #1712
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Default Rollout with 1s?

My CRC LE is set up at 235mm, using a Peugeot 905 B HD body and BSR capped tires. RR tire is 2.45" diam. Electronics are a sensored 17.5 turn brushless motor, a 1 cell battery and a Turnigy 1 cell ESC. Radios are Spectrum. The track is an outdoor concrete basketball court. I need suggestions on how to gear this car and/or what the roll out should be. Thanks for your help as I've never tried a single cell in a pan car before.
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Old 08-27-2014, 06:45 PM   #1713
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lagcisco View Post
Really considering a Pro10.

What do you guys think of the Speedmerchant Roadkill 10 vs CRC GenX 10SE with 235mm conversion kit?

I already have a CRC Carpet knife I'm happy with.. so I'm just a bit partial to CRC but am open to other options.
The RK10 is the most stunning chassis I've ever wheeled.
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Old 08-28-2014, 12:01 AM   #1714
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Originally Posted by Cancun Tom View Post
My CRC LE is set up at 235mm, using a Peugeot 905 B HD body and BSR capped tires. RR tire is 2.45" diam. Electronics are a sensored 17.5 turn brushless motor, a 1 cell battery and a Turnigy 1 cell ESC. Radios are Spectrum. The track is an outdoor concrete basketball court. I need suggestions on how to gear this car and/or what the roll out should be. Thanks for your help as I've never tried a single cell in a pan car before.
Try high 80s. That's where I start with my WGT.

I have to ask, why 1S? Im running 2S 10.5 boosted and its drivable. It takes serious throttle control on a 100 foot straight, but that is the point. I'd skip right to 17.5 boosted with that setup or you will get bored silly.
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Old 08-28-2014, 12:12 AM   #1715
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lagcisco View Post
Really considering a Pro10.

What do you guys think of the Speedmerchant Roadkill 10 vs CRC GenX 10SE with 235mm conversion kit?

I already have a CRC Carpet knife I'm happy with.. so I'm just a bit partial to CRC but am open to other options.
I have 2 LEs and CRC 12th. After driving a purpose built 235 pan car, the Roadkill 10 by SpeedMerchant, I will not hesitate to buy another of their products. The geometry is completely different with much wider links than any conversion, no addon parts or additional axle set to buy which leads to a solid feeling drive every time I set it down. So far celt and I have logged several hours on our cars an not one failure or broken part. I would buy another RK10 before I'd buy a conversion.
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Old 08-29-2014, 02:29 PM   #1716
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Default 1s Rollout

Quote:
Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Try high 80s. That's where I start with my WGT.

I have to ask, why 1S? Im running 2S 10.5 boosted and its drivable. It takes serious throttle control on a 100 foot straight, but that is the point. I'd skip right to 17.5 boosted with that setup or you will get bored silly.
Lil John,
So i assume that you mean a rollout between 85 & 89mm?

The only reason I can give is that I wanted to try a 1s setup, I guess from back in the day when I ran 4cell NiCd 12th scale. So it's an experiment.
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Old 08-30-2014, 01:02 AM   #1717
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Lil John,
So i assume that you mean a rollout between 85 & 89mm?

The only reason I can give is that I wanted to try a 1s setup, I guess from back in the day when I ran 4cell NiCd 12th scale. So it's an experiment.
Yes, sorry, that is in mm.

I understand. I still have a 17.5 blinky 12th and actually ran it this week. The 235mm wide car can take a lot more motor. Once you get done with your test, try it with 2S.
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Old 08-31-2014, 09:11 PM   #1718
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Default rough draft upper pod plate

Finally made some headway on the 10L2. I hand made a couple rough drafts of the upper pod plate, still needs a few changes. The pics are of my 2nd draft, I'm going to apply the changes to the 3rd and final draft before the nice CNC copies are produced. Also hopefully getting the aluminum lower plates made tomorrow, hard to find the time...




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Old 09-01-2014, 02:50 AM   #1719
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Nice one OrganicMechanic, make sure that the middle and left spoke of the top plate don't get in the way with the soldering tabs of the motor.
Also make sure that you have enough room to place the motor without having to remove the top plate.
Or do you place the motor from the lower side?

Regards Roy
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Old 09-01-2014, 07:38 AM   #1720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro10noob View Post
Nice one OrganicMechanic, make sure that the middle and left spoke of the top plate don't get in the way with the soldering tabs of the motor.
Also make sure that you have enough room to place the motor without having to remove the top plate.
Or do you place the motor from the lower side?

Regards Roy
Thanks! I was going to try an open upper plate design similar to the PRC, for ease of solder tab access. I decided I would rather the plate have proper leverage and rigidity. The motor easily slides in or out through the lower pod plate anyway, and with the solder tabs facing forward everything fits just right. So to swap motors all I have to do is drop the motor out the bottom side, unsolder/solder motor wires, the slip the new motor back in and done. I don't plan to swap motors often but even when I do it will be easy enough.
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Old 09-01-2014, 11:03 AM   #1721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrganicMechanic View Post
Finally made some headway on the 10L2. I hand made a couple rough drafts of the upper pod plate, still needs a few changes. The pics are of my 2nd draft, I'm going to apply the changes to the 3rd and final draft before the nice CNC copies are produced. Also hopefully getting the aluminum lower plates made tomorrow, hard to find the time...




Simple, Use motor mounts on both sides, then you don't need the triangle all the way to the back of the pod on the left side. The motor mount is universal and machined to accept the ride height adjuster from either side. Try it if you don't believe me. Now the top brace triangle can stop at the front of the pod and connect to the front or both motor plate top holes on the left side. Looks like you'll have to keep the brace across the back though. No place to mount one elsewhere on the back of the plates.
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Old 09-01-2014, 11:34 AM   #1722
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Ehmm... THAT doesn't work with IRS podplates. The only podplate that you can use to do what you say is the CRC #3340 podplate. IRS podplates do not accept ride height adjusters on both sides. It may fit but it won't flush into the motorplate as is does on the diff side.

If you do so, the left podplate will have the ride height adjuster on the inside and that will not work.

Take a look at my P235-SE. That is also a good solution on how to make an upper podplate...
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Old 09-01-2014, 12:29 PM   #1723
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Here you go

Regards Roy

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Old 09-01-2014, 12:47 PM   #1724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Simple, Use motor mounts on both sides, then you don't need the triangle all the way to the back of the pod on the left side. The motor mount is universal and machined to accept the ride height adjuster from either side. Try it if you don't believe me. Now the top brace triangle can stop at the front of the pod and connect to the front or both motor plate top holes on the left side. Looks like you'll have to keep the brace across the back though. No place to mount one elsewhere on the back of the plates.
Thanks for the idea. The bad news is that will not work with the Associated plate or the IRS plate. You can see in the 3rd pic I posted what the IRS motor plate looks like. Good idea though if it had worked out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joost K. View Post
Ehmm... THAT doesn't work with IRS podplates. The only podplate that you can use to do what you say is the CRC #3340 podplate. IRS podplates do not accept ride height adjusters on both sides. It may fit but it won't flush into the motorplate as is does on the diff side.

If you do so, the left podplate will have the ride height adjuster on the inside and that will not work.

Take a look at my P235-SE. That is also a good solution on how to make an upper podplate...
Beautiful work on the P235-SE, especially the stealth look. So I assume I'm wrong to think your plate design or the PRC plate design has more flex then the design I went with? Maybe my third draft will look closer to the PRC and P235-SE upper plates if that's the case. I at least have the side shock mount points worked out lol.
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Old 09-01-2014, 01:53 PM   #1725
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The top plate won't flex.
With the alloy lower podplate, it won't flex at all
With the new design lower carbon pod plate the car is even more stable then before.
It is now from 3MM carbon.

Regards Roy
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