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Old 08-16-2014, 09:46 AM   #1651
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That video clearly puts to rest peoples negative nancy nonsense about running Pro10 on indoor carpet.

I should have the first set of build pics up soon for my modded RC10L2. Just waiting on 1 more parts shipment and the custom upper and lower plates then I'm golden. I plan to test the car with the prototype upper plate and stock lower plate in the meantime.
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Old 08-20-2014, 05:38 PM   #1652
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Hey John, I take it that you are running 10.5t on 1s?
Is this blinky or boosted?
We run on pavement here in Camarillo and I love the class! I have always believed that this could be a real fun class on carpet as we can plainly see... even if it were a spec class. I was just about as fast with 10.5t blinky as I am with 10.5t boosted due to better consistency. 1s of course...
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Old 08-20-2014, 06:16 PM   #1653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YoDog View Post
Hey John, I take it that you are running 10.5t on 1s?
Is this blinky or boosted?
We run on pavement here in Camarillo and I love the class! I have always believed that this could be a real fun class on carpet as we can plainly see... even if it were a spec class. I was just about as fast with 10.5t blinky as I am with 10.5t boosted due to better consistency. 1s of course...
2S 13.5 Profile 3 on a Tekin RS 2. I never hit full throttle. The track is too short for turbo to come on, but having timing on the ESC is easier on the motor. Then I added a 10.5 with no timing and didn't notice a real difference. Temps were around 120.
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Old 08-20-2014, 07:31 PM   #1654
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
2S 13.5 Profile 3 on a Tekin RS 2. I never hit full throttle. The track is too short for turbo to come on, but having timing on the ESC is easier on the motor. Then I added a 10.5 with no timing and didn't notice a real difference. Temps were around 120.
I forgot to ask last night where you were at for rollout?
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Old 08-20-2014, 09:00 PM   #1655
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I forgot to ask last night where you were at for rollout?
Right around 48.5mm or 1.9". Geared 75/19
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Old 08-23-2014, 10:03 AM   #1656
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Conversation moved from the Speedmerchant Roadkill 10 235mm Pro10 Pancar thread.


Quote:
Originally Posted by RoyU
OrganicMechanic, what prototype parts are you having made for the 10l2? Will it be available for sale? I've got a L2 also.
Yup, I will have limited quantities available for sale. I will have to wait to finish each run to put together prices however. I'll list the prototype parts I'm having made below in the order they'll be produced.

1st: lower pod plate in 3.18mm 7075-T6 aluminum, same layout as factory L2 piece just thicker and considerably higher quality aluminum, will provide better heat dissipation for the motor along with adding strength and rigidity to the rear pod.
-10 of these will be made to start. I'm keeping @ least 3 and I'm setting 1 more aside for THEBIGBULL if he wants it.

2nd: upper pod plate in 2mm carbon fiber, designed for use with side shocks or dampers, also designed for easier motor solder tab access.
-12 of these will be made to start. I'm keeping @ least 4 and I'm setting 1 more aside for THEBIGBULL if he wants it.

3rd: lower pod plate in 2.5mm carbon fiber, will basically be a replica of the PRC carbon fiber lower pod plate, including the notch to allow larger spur gears.
-4 of these will be made, probably no more. I'm keeping 1 and setting aside however many THEBIGBULL wants, he asked me to have them made.

The 1st run of prototype aluminum lower pod plates should be done in 1-2 weeks maybe less. Then I'll try to have the prototype upper plates done asap after that. I'm modifying the stock upper plate in the meantime to test placement of the side shocks mounting holes before production. When each run is done I'll post in this thread with pics, prices, quantity available. Let me know if your interested in any of it, I'll reserve plates for you. No obligation if you don't like the finished work of course. I'm not doing this for money just to help out myself and other racers in the process.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoyU
I'm interested in all 3 pieces. If the carbon fiber lower pod plate is a very limited run then, the other 2 pieces will be just fine.
Thanks Roy
Sounds good, I'll set 1 each aside for you. Again no obligation.
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Last edited by OrganicMechanic; 08-23-2014 at 01:52 PM.
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Old 08-23-2014, 10:07 AM   #1657
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I suggest using these side pod plates for anyone looking to modify their L2 with the upper/lower pod plates listed above.

link to pod plates: http://www.muddslidemotorsports.com/podplates1.html
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Last edited by OrganicMechanic; 08-23-2014 at 10:59 AM. Reason: added link
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Old 08-23-2014, 10:16 AM   #1658
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Moved this one too lol... Should have my mess cleaned up now lol...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro10noob
Question for OrganicMechanic...
Do the IRS motorpod plates have the same bolt pattern as the Asso RC10L2??
Regards Roy
Yes they do. I have a set of black and a set of silver IRS side pod plates sitting on my work table. They say they are for the L3/L4 but the L2 is the same design.

Quote:
Originally posted by Pro10noob
Perfect
Then i am a bit ahead of you as i am running a modded top plate on my car for the past year.
Also my lowerpodplate is a design for the IRS motorpodplates.
We use the R5 centre dampers on the side.
Also a pic of my Mod Pro10.




Regards Roy
Where do you think I got the inspiration from? Pro10noob, Joost K., 2wdrive, MarkA
Thanks guys!
I'm starting with micro VCS shocks but the 12R5 center shocks will also work, so will dampers.
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Old 08-23-2014, 10:25 AM   #1659
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Joost K is the one that designed this car.
I believe it is his 3th design and a very good one also.
I have to wait and see what he has in his "magic hat" for next year

Regards Roy
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Old 08-23-2014, 10:54 AM   #1660
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro10noob View Post
Joost K is the one that designed this car.
I believe it is his 3th design and a very good one also.
I have to wait and see what he has in his "magic hat" for next year

Regards Roy
Yup I know Joost is the designer he's talented! It's nice of you to display his work though. Does he farm out the machine work or do it himself?

I'm hoping my buddy will hook me up with a copy of his CAD program so I can play around with it and make production of parts a breeze.
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Old 08-23-2014, 11:00 AM   #1661
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Just thought I'd post some thoughts here and my setup.

Chassis: SpeedMerchant Roadkill 10
Tires: Double Purple Front, Double Pink Rear 61mm or 2.4 inch OD UNCUT
Ride Height: 8mm (please don't laugh)
Body: Protoform P905b, no side air dams
Bumper: Parma Ultimate cut to fit the P905b body
Center shock: gold spring (5 lb) with 40 wt Losi Silicon, 2 hole piston
Rear droop: 2mm
Pod sag: less than 1mm
Front droop: .5mm
Spur: 75 tooth 48P
Pinion: 19 tooth 48P
Rollout: 48.5
Caster: 4*
Camber: -.5*
Front spring: .20
Battery: Turnigy 6400mAh Ultimate
ESC: Tekin RS Gen 2
Radio: KO Eurus w/210S receiver
Servo: JR3650 mounted with no spacers with screws in top holes of the servo mount.

2 1/4" Turnbuckles are mounted to the front of the Kimbrough medium servo saver. The ballstuds are on the inner holes of the servo saver arm. Turnbuckles are swept back from inside to outside, about 1cm difference. The turnbuckles are flat went viewing from the front. No noticeable bump steer.

All weight is under the center line of the rear axle visually.
The only thing above the tire tops are the rear body posts.
Car does not over or under steer at this time.
Corner rotation is perfect.
Diff will bark a little in tight corners when trying to rapidly accelerate.

Complaints: none
Issues: More advanced driver states steering balance between into and out of corners could be better. Right it's better in than out. Might need a stiffer front spring or ackerman change. This would lead to perfection.
Solution: Just drive it and drive it a lot.
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Old 08-23-2014, 11:06 AM   #1662
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This work was done by a friend.
All new work, we going to try and do on our own.

Regards Roy
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Old 08-23-2014, 11:25 AM   #1663
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Just thought I'd post some thoughts here and my setup.

Chassis: SpeedMerchant Roadkill 10
Tires: Double Purple Front, Double Pink Rear 61mm or 2.4 inch OD UNCUT
Ride Height: 8mm (please don't laugh)
Body: Protoform P905b, no side air dams
Bumper: Parma Ultimate cut to fit the P905b body
Center shock: gold spring (5 lb) with 40 wt Losi Silicon, 2 hole piston
Rear droop: 2mm
Pod sag: less than 1mm
Front droop: .5mm
Spur: 75 tooth 48P
Pinion: 19 tooth 48P
Rollout: 48.5
Caster: 4*
Camber: -.5*
Front spring: .20
Battery: Turnigy 6400mAh Ultimate
ESC: Tekin RS Gen 2
Radio: KO Eurus w/210S receiver
Servo: JR3650 mounted with no spacers with screws in top holes of the servo mount.

2 1/4" Turnbuckles are mounted to the front of the Kimbrough medium servo saver. The ballstuds are on the inner holes of the servo saver arm. Turnbuckles are swept back from inside to outside, about 1cm difference. The turnbuckles are flat went viewing from the front. No noticeable bump steer.

All weight is under the center line of the rear axle visually.
The only thing above the tire tops are the rear body posts.
Car does not over or under steer at this time.
Corner rotation is perfect.
Diff will bark a little in tight corners when trying to rapidly accelerate.

Complaints: none
Issues: More advanced driver states steering balance between into and out of corners could be better. Right it's better in than out. Might need a stiffer front spring or ackerman change. This would lead to perfection.
Solution: Just drive it and drive it a lot.
I noticed Stan's diff "barks" as well. I know I'm a noob to racing so maybe I'm wrong but I think you need to lower your rollout. When I finally get my Pro10 on the rug I'll be running a 35-37mm rollout. When playing with my Bolink @ HTO I changed my gearing until I could just barely touch full throttle for a sec in the straight. This point was ~39mm rollout. It didn't make the car any less drivable in the technical areas even with the added torque. My Bolink has a 8.5T@4200kv, my L2 will have a 10.5T@4900kv, which is why I'm lowering the rollout more. Example: I've read on this thread that the Europeans run ~45mm rollout with 10.5T and ~35mm rollout with mod motors(3-5.5T) on large 1/8 scale outdoor tracks obviously. So my theory is 35-37mm rollout will allow full throttle for a split second and allow full use of the the boost/turbo functions. Just my .02cents.
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Old 08-23-2014, 11:50 AM   #1664
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrganicMechanic View Post
I noticed Stan's diff "barks" as well. I know I'm a noob to racing so maybe I'm wrong but I think you need to lower your rollout. When I finally get my Pro10 on the rug I'll be running a 35-37mm rollout. When playing with my Bolink @ HTO I changed my gearing until I could just barely touch full throttle for a sec in the straight. This point was ~39mm rollout. It didn't make the car any less drivable in the technical areas even with the added torque. My Bolink has a 8.5T@4200kv, my L2 will have a 10.5T@4900kv, which is why I'm lowering the rollout more. Example: I've read on this thread that the Europeans run ~45mm rollout with 10.5T and ~35mm rollout with mod motors(3-5.5T) on large 1/8 scale outdoor tracks obviously. So my theory is 35-37mm rollout will allow full throttle for a split second and allow full use of the the boost/turbo functions. Just my .02cents.
Sure I could change the gearing, but I'm temping at 120 or less for 8 minutes. And for this short of a straight, Turbo isn't necessary. I'm not even using all of the boost. Our track is big with a 100 foot straight, but not enough for Turbo to be of use. When it comes to boosted with turbo, I have it pretty much nailed down. Years ago, my 17.5 sedan was the first locally to have it figured out and I could rip past the 13.5 super stock (preblinky) easily. The difference between a boosted and blinky setup for 48P is roughly 3 teeth off the pinion, maybe 4 about 1 to 1.5 FDR points. If I don't hit WOT, It doesn't bother me. It just means I have more motor than the track can handle. The car itself could handle gobs more motor. I'm still in lovin' it.

Turbo function comes on after boost, after .1 sec WOT and takes about 1.5 seconds to max out based on ramp rate. I may hit WOT, but I need to stay @ WOT to run it all the way up. By that time, my car would be 100' past the sweeper and still accelerating (and pulling like a freight train.)
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Old 08-23-2014, 12:14 PM   #1665
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro10noob View Post
This work was done by a friend.
All new work, we going to try and do on our own.

Regards Roy
Nice! Can't afford a CNC or mill but, I had thought about doing all the carbon fiber work by hand. I need to have the aluminum parts CNC'd anyway so might as well have it all done.
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