The New PPD workstation
09-01-2009, 05:42 PM
#16
That is one big advancement made with this design. In the past tweak plates were model specific. So when you sold the TC you sold the plate. This design took alot of research time to come up with universal mounting, so it not only works for the 009 but also TC5, 007, 008, Schumacher Mi3, Mi4, Photon, Tamiya 415, Corrally Phi, Cyclone. The ones I haven't listed just haven't been tested yet...but will soon. 
09-02-2009, 11:50 AM
#17
That is one big advancement made with this design. In the past tweak plates were model specific. So when you sold the TC you sold the plate. This design took alot of research time to come up with universal mounting, so it not only works for the 009 but also TC5, 007, 008, Schumacher Mi3, Mi4, Photon, Tamiya 415, Corrally Phi, Cyclone. The ones I haven't listed just haven't been tested yet...but will soon.
09-02-2009, 06:04 PM
#18
Exactly why I just purchased one. Thanks for designing something much needed Kevin. I was torn as I want the model specific, but being that I would like to switch chassis for boredom's sake in the future, this makes much more sense, as well as being able to help others at the track.
In responce to those asking about a cover, (we've had several questions about plate protection and a non skid working surface). The obvious answer is 2 clamps to hold for some rough hand wrenching, or...now we've found an excellent material as a top cover. Industrial grade thin rubber matting that sticks well to top for using as a stand, when using as a tweak plate just peel it off.
Website has been updated and these can be seen there.
09-02-2009, 07:02 PM
#19
Excellent and your welcome. If you liked the last design...you'll like this even better.
In responce to those asking about a cover, (we've had several questions about plate protection and a non skid working surface). The obvious answer is 2 clamps to hold for some rough hand wrenching, or...now we've found an excellent material as a top cover. Industrial grade thin rubber matting that sticks well to top for using as a stand, when using as a tweak plate just peel it off.
Website has been updated and these can be seen there.
In responce to those asking about a cover, (we've had several questions about plate protection and a non skid working surface). The obvious answer is 2 clamps to hold for some rough hand wrenching, or...now we've found an excellent material as a top cover. Industrial grade thin rubber matting that sticks well to top for using as a stand, when using as a tweak plate just peel it off.
Website has been updated and these can be seen there.
09-03-2009, 05:52 PM
#21
My answer was I would strongly advise not to use even a light undercoating on the top. You will loose your flatness, and its a real pain to get off. Now on the bottom...may be OK to try.
I had been looking into different materials for a while for top cover. We prob. looked at a dozen materials, and even purchased 3 before deciding on this matting. Far superior to anything else we looked at including tool box drawer liner.
09-03-2009, 09:52 PM
#23
We have decided to re imburst shipping charges to those that ordered a workstation and want the cover. By all rights those should have been ready when the workstations were. Nobody should get penalized for ordering early.
These will still be shipped priority as well.
These will still be shipped priority as well.
09-03-2009, 10:08 PM
#24
Kevin, your level of customer service is much needed in this world
Thanks. BTW Kevin, still thinking about Lipo plates for the Mi4? If not no worries, Ill just purchase another lipo bottom plate that you currently make, cut the chassis, and figure out a way to secure the plate. Maybe I can make a tack weld and dremel it down to fill the space? Never tried to weld to stainless before....
Thanks. BTW Kevin, still thinking about Lipo plates for the Mi4? If not no worries, Ill just purchase another lipo bottom plate that you currently make, cut the chassis, and figure out a way to secure the plate. Maybe I can make a tack weld and dremel it down to fill the space? Never tried to weld to stainless before....
09-04-2009, 09:09 AM
#25
Kevin, your level of customer service is much needed in this world
Thanks. BTW Kevin, still thinking about Lipo plates for the Mi4? If not no worries, Ill just purchase another lipo bottom plate that you currently make, cut the chassis, and figure out a way to secure the plate. Maybe I can make a tack weld and dremel it down to fill the space? Never tried to weld to stainless before....
Thanks. BTW Kevin, still thinking about Lipo plates for the Mi4? If not no worries, Ill just purchase another lipo bottom plate that you currently make, cut the chassis, and figure out a way to secure the plate. Maybe I can make a tack weld and dremel it down to fill the space? Never tried to weld to stainless before....
Trying to keep the big picture in mind, Mi4 is fairly new so it becomes a numbers game carrying a seperate product for an early release RC. The universal will be better also.
09-05-2009, 10:37 PM
#26
Found a nice little write up on RedRC about the PitBoss today!
Second time we've made RedRC now.
http://www.redrc.net/2009/09/ppd-pit-boss-car-stand-tool-holder/
Second time we've made RedRC now.
http://www.redrc.net/2009/09/ppd-pit-boss-car-stand-tool-holder/
09-05-2009, 11:06 PM
#27
Kevin, your level of customer service is much needed in this world
Thanks. BTW Kevin, still thinking about Lipo plates for the Mi4? If not no worries, Ill just purchase another lipo bottom plate that you currently make, cut the chassis, and figure out a way to secure the plate. Maybe I can make a tack weld and dremel it down to fill the space? Never tried to weld to stainless before....
Thanks. BTW Kevin, still thinking about Lipo plates for the Mi4? If not no worries, Ill just purchase another lipo bottom plate that you currently make, cut the chassis, and figure out a way to secure the plate. Maybe I can make a tack weld and dremel it down to fill the space? Never tried to weld to stainless before....
The Mi4 lipo plate is somewhat in limbo at the moment. I have a new design universal lipo "tray" rather then plate that will allow more adjustability and accommodate a wider range of chassis slots "on paper" at the moment. Shop schedule is somewhat loaded for a while longer with non RC related jobs, so I dont expect much within the next 30 days (slight chance sooner..cant promise yet though).
Trying to keep the big picture in mind, Mi4 is fairly new so it becomes a numbers game carrying a seperate product for an early release RC. The universal will be better also.
Trying to keep the big picture in mind, Mi4 is fairly new so it becomes a numbers game carrying a seperate product for an early release RC. The universal will be better also.
09-15-2009, 10:10 AM
#29
Tips on painting risers.
The plasic risers can be painted, but its tough to get paint to stick without using some caution.
First scuff the portion you plan to paint with fine scotch brite pad to remove gloss finish.
Clean well and let completely dry.
Use a good quality plastic paint like Rustolium plastic paint, possibly the Krylon Fusion paint works also but haven't tried.
Let cure 24hrs or more....then.
Finish with a good clear coat to seal and lock on paint. Recommend the Rustolium Crystal Clear Enamel (works well on bodies over faskolor as well).
This will give a nice little custom finishing touch if you want to add or match some color to your color scheme.
The plasic risers can be painted, but its tough to get paint to stick without using some caution.
First scuff the portion you plan to paint with fine scotch brite pad to remove gloss finish.
Clean well and let completely dry.
Use a good quality plastic paint like Rustolium plastic paint, possibly the Krylon Fusion paint works also but haven't tried.
Let cure 24hrs or more....then.
Finish with a good clear coat to seal and lock on paint. Recommend the Rustolium Crystal Clear Enamel (works well on bodies over faskolor as well).
This will give a nice little custom finishing touch if you want to add or match some color to your color scheme.
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