bgrick

iTrader: (11)

I got a genx that had this left side mount and made a top deck that goes to it to help with the broken top deck, and also not too bad getting a motor in and out.
http://ashfordhobby.com/detail.aspx?ID=5388

CanyonCarverR1

iTrader: (13)

Does anybody have a chart or list of the shock spring rates?

Kenny L

iTrader: (16)

I have list of CRC vs old springs
Black=Stiffer than Copper
Purple=Copper
Green=Red
Red=Gold
White=Blue
Blue=Silver

CanyonCarverR1

iTrader: (13)

Are those arranged from Stiffest(black) to softest(blue)?

troyer25

iTrader: (2)

Yes

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

And one other cool note... They follow the same color identification system that the side springs have. It makes it really easy to remember which spring is stiffer or softer.

-Korey

vafactor

iTrader: (6)

Please note that the picture in bgrick's post shows an older edition GenX (not a GenXL) car. The older cars were designed for brushed motors. They had a narrower rear pod that used a longer diff side hub. When the GenXL came out with it's openX pod design, it was optimized for the larger size and heavier weight of brushless motors. The GenXL cars have the motor plate moved farther to the right and they use a shorter diff hub to compensate for the new motor mount position. So if you want the GenXL's optimum brushless motor position, and you also want an extra stiff pod that has graphite connecting the two alum side plates at the top, then it's necessary to make your own top graphite piece. If you do, then you can use any motor side plate, an older version left side plate (or a motor plate on the left side), a GenXL bottom plate, a GenXL (shorter) diff hub, and your own custom top graphite piece to tie it all together. Having said all of that, CRC has proven time and time again with plenty of high level victories that the current GenXL car runs great without need for any modifications at all.

CanyonCarverR1

iTrader: (13)

I have a question for you more experienced CRC drivers:
Our local track(NorCal) is putting in new CRC carpet. In general, should I soften up my setup with lighter springs/oil/tubelube, or just use higher grip tires, or both?
Any suggestions would be appriciated.
Thx,
Greg

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

I would probably just go back to the kit setup (it actually works REALLY well) and work with tires to start. Then after you figure out what tires give you the best balance in grip, and last the whole 8 minutes, then start tweaking on the suspension if you need more grip.

-Korey

Ralf

iTrader: (2)

Hi,

what length do you use regarding the central shock please.

thanks !

Mugen10

iTrader: (9)

Set your shock length according to droop. Exp. set your car on flat surface and set ride height to 4mm all around then use your ride height gauge between the pod and chassis and pull up on the upper shock until the rear wheels are about to raise. That is the droop you measure. I run 1mm of droop on a small tight carpet track.
screw in or out the shock shaft to get the droop you are trying to reach.

Ralf

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Mugen !

rcko

iTrader: (15)

what is the weight or the cSt of the stock white dampner lube. also, the new crc lube in the toothpaste tube, is that weight or cSt.

I put some xRay 20,000 cSt on the dampner tubes and man, it felt weird. Too stiff. I am wondering now, since 20000 weight would be much thicker than 20000cSt

RDOUBLEDAY

iTrader: (10)

Ive been racing my crc alot lately, It drives GREAT. I pulled one of the fastest laps with it in a 6min race. We ran a 8min main and after 6min in the car went to crap. No traction at all. What should i do. And i didnt take any practice laps. I am using jack the gripper. Yellow rears, magenta fronts, CRC carpet. Any question just ask me.

Kenny L

iTrader: (16)

Are your front tires building up? what motor?