New Team CRC Gen-XL
09-07-2010, 12:00 PM
#691
Cool, Thanks for the help guys
09-07-2010, 01:23 PM
#692
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
bottom pivot ball & kingpin fitment
Guys,
it's always been my experience that the kit standard nylon pivot balls work better than either the fancy bronze ones or the slick coated steel or aluminum ones. While it is possible to achieve a real nice fit around the kingpins with the metal balls, the nylon balls always seem to work better on the track. What I've noticed is that, no matter how much work you invest in obtaining a totally smooth and free sliding kingpin thru any kind of an aftermarket metal pivot ball.......those only feel good if you push straight up on the bottom of the kingpin or else let the assembly drop straight down under it's own weight. But if you put any side load on the kingpin (by pushing up on the outside end of the axle rather than on the bottom of the kingpin), then the sliding action is no longer smooth. This is what actually happens when the car is loaded and out on the track. No kind of lube seems to eliminate that stuttering action in a metal ball. By contrast, while the standard nylon balls sometimes have a slight bit of play around the kingpin, they will slide up smoothly when you push up on the outer tip of the axle. I cannot explain why, but the metal balls (no matter which brand or what type of lube) only feel smooth without any side load on the kingpin. Such is not a realistic expectation on the track considering the side load forces that are imposed on the kingpin during cornering. The pivot ball situation is a case when the seemingly cheap standard nylon balls are actually much better in their function than the more sexy and more expensive optional parts. This could also explain why the CRC boys still supply the kits with nylon pivot balls. They just work better than the metal ones.
it's always been my experience that the kit standard nylon pivot balls work better than either the fancy bronze ones or the slick coated steel or aluminum ones. While it is possible to achieve a real nice fit around the kingpins with the metal balls, the nylon balls always seem to work better on the track. What I've noticed is that, no matter how much work you invest in obtaining a totally smooth and free sliding kingpin thru any kind of an aftermarket metal pivot ball.......those only feel good if you push straight up on the bottom of the kingpin or else let the assembly drop straight down under it's own weight. But if you put any side load on the kingpin (by pushing up on the outside end of the axle rather than on the bottom of the kingpin), then the sliding action is no longer smooth. This is what actually happens when the car is loaded and out on the track. No kind of lube seems to eliminate that stuttering action in a metal ball. By contrast, while the standard nylon balls sometimes have a slight bit of play around the kingpin, they will slide up smoothly when you push up on the outer tip of the axle. I cannot explain why, but the metal balls (no matter which brand or what type of lube) only feel smooth without any side load on the kingpin. Such is not a realistic expectation on the track considering the side load forces that are imposed on the kingpin during cornering. The pivot ball situation is a case when the seemingly cheap standard nylon balls are actually much better in their function than the more sexy and more expensive optional parts. This could also explain why the CRC boys still supply the kits with nylon pivot balls. They just work better than the metal ones.
09-07-2010, 01:46 PM
#693
Guys,
it's always been my experience that the kit standard nylon pivot balls work better than either the fancy bronze ones or the slick coated steel or aluminum ones. While it is possible to achieve a real nice fit around the kingpins with the metal balls, the nylon balls always seem to work better on the track. What I've noticed is that, no matter how much work you invest in obtaining a totally smooth and free sliding kingpin thru any kind of an aftermarket metal pivot ball.......those only feel good if you push straight up on the bottom of the kingpin or else let the assembly drop straight down under it's own weight. But if you put any side load on the kingpin (by pushing up on the outside end of the axle rather than on the bottom of the kingpin), then the sliding action is no longer smooth. This is what actually happens when the car is loaded and out on the track. No kind of lube seems to eliminate that stuttering action in a metal ball. By contrast, while the standard nylon balls sometimes have a slight bit of play around the kingpin, they will slide up smoothly when you push up on the outer tip of the axle. I cannot explain why, but the metal balls (no matter which brand or what type of lube) only feel smooth without any side load on the kingpin. Such is not a realistic expectation on the track considering the side load forces that are imposed on the kingpin during cornering. The pivot ball situation is a case when the seemingly cheap standard nylon balls are actually much better in their function than the more sexy and more expensive optional parts. This could also explain why the CRC boys still supply the kits with nylon pivot balls. They just work better than the metal ones.
it's always been my experience that the kit standard nylon pivot balls work better than either the fancy bronze ones or the slick coated steel or aluminum ones. While it is possible to achieve a real nice fit around the kingpins with the metal balls, the nylon balls always seem to work better on the track. What I've noticed is that, no matter how much work you invest in obtaining a totally smooth and free sliding kingpin thru any kind of an aftermarket metal pivot ball.......those only feel good if you push straight up on the bottom of the kingpin or else let the assembly drop straight down under it's own weight. But if you put any side load on the kingpin (by pushing up on the outside end of the axle rather than on the bottom of the kingpin), then the sliding action is no longer smooth. This is what actually happens when the car is loaded and out on the track. No kind of lube seems to eliminate that stuttering action in a metal ball. By contrast, while the standard nylon balls sometimes have a slight bit of play around the kingpin, they will slide up smoothly when you push up on the outer tip of the axle. I cannot explain why, but the metal balls (no matter which brand or what type of lube) only feel smooth without any side load on the kingpin. Such is not a realistic expectation on the track considering the side load forces that are imposed on the kingpin during cornering. The pivot ball situation is a case when the seemingly cheap standard nylon balls are actually much better in their function than the more sexy and more expensive optional parts. This could also explain why the CRC boys still supply the kits with nylon pivot balls. They just work better than the metal ones.
09-07-2010, 11:41 PM
#694
09-19-2010, 08:36 PM
#695
Sensor cable length?
I was measuring for approximate sensor cable length and for my layout I came to needing 125mm. 110mm seem to be the exact distance between motor and esc but I would rather play it safe. Does 125mm for the sensor cable sound right? Thanks.
09-29-2010, 07:13 PM
#697
Got my car on track last night wow car is money . Big thanks to Frank for bringing me on the Team. Going to be some great things coming from CRC team. Looking forward to this season 
09-29-2010, 07:17 PM
#698
09-29-2010, 07:37 PM
#699
Awesome to hear! You can really sink your teeth in next week. When do you get in to TZ2 land? I will be showing up Thur morning. The cars are awesome right out of the wrapper. I added a pin brace and bronze balls to my 17.5 iic car and it went right for the checkers. They are great cars.
09-29-2010, 07:52 PM
#700
09-29-2010, 08:02 PM
#701
Awesome to hear! You can really sink your teeth in next week. When do you get in to TZ2 land? I will be showing up Thur morning. The cars are awesome right out of the wrapper. I added a pin brace and bronze balls to my 17.5 iic car and it went right for the checkers. They are great cars.
Do you use 1 pin brace or 2? I think I saw a pic of an xl with 2 of them.
mike
09-29-2010, 08:30 PM
#702
Frank just grabbed one of the two cars I had for photos, he took the older one that had two braces. The older braces were thicker and required that some dremmel work take place to sand some of the upper brace away so that you do not alter the caster. Obviously, this might be an issue for some and I am guessing the change came. Currently the pin brace takes place of two shims. Since there is only enough room for 3 shims, it will either go at the front or the rear of the upper block. I am running the new brace at the rear with 1 shim front.
They should be brass. It's a pretty stinkin ballzy car!
When Dumper told me to build the car, he said specifically out of the box. I listened and it worked great. I still added 1/2ou of lead to bring it to weight.
They should be brass. It's a pretty stinkin ballzy car!
When Dumper told me to build the car, he said specifically out of the box. I listened and it worked great. I still added 1/2ou of lead to bring it to weight.
09-30-2010, 05:55 AM
#704
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Kenny is a great addition to the team, and we look forward to working with him. I am taking him to Dumper's boot camp next week at TimeZone to get him up to speed. IF he survives the mental trauma of me yelling at him for 4 straight days he will return a changed man....