New Team CRC Gen-XL
#1081
My vote is for carpet...LOL
#1083
Yeppers!
#1084
Mine too!
Obviously neither of those pics above is a Gen XL, so...why?
I didn't take any "official" pics of Bill's wiring job, just this progress shot with my phone. One thing that is cool about the Gen XL is the ability to mount the esc in the center of the car. To do that you must use a JR 3550, 3650 or similar size servo. Bill is using a KO 951 so the esc has to be on one side, but the car balanced out very close with the servo, receiver and transponder on the other
Obviously neither of those pics above is a Gen XL, so...why?
I didn't take any "official" pics of Bill's wiring job, just this progress shot with my phone. One thing that is cool about the Gen XL is the ability to mount the esc in the center of the car. To do that you must use a JR 3550, 3650 or similar size servo. Bill is using a KO 951 so the esc has to be on one side, but the car balanced out very close with the servo, receiver and transponder on the other
Last edited by odpurple; 08-25-2011 at 02:41 PM.
#1085
Hey there guys, Is there anything different you have to do when running the 16x3/32 balls and spur. Not really getting any diff action while putting it together the first time. Any help is much appreciated.
#1086
The 3/32" balls being 1/32" smaller mean most racers will have their adjustment nut bottom out on the threads of the axle before the diff gets tightened. And overtightening here can pull the threads right out of the axle.
On one friend's car I used two red CRC spacers to be able to get the diff adjusted properly. It works.
But, the ultimate solution is to get one of his #109 Slapmaster Thrust Bearing assembly with the wider spacer normally used on 12R5. This unit will set up perfectly with the 3/32" balls in the spur.
And 16 of the 3/32" balls only weigh about half of what 12 of the 1/8" balls would...Good stuff.
Bill
#1088
Already posted this; but, here we go again.
The 3/32" balls being 1/32" smaller mean most racers will have their adjustment nut bottom out on the threads of the axle before the diff gets tightened. And overtightening here can pull the threads right out of the axle.
On one friend's car I used two red CRC spacers to be able to get the diff adjusted properly. It works.
But, the ultimate solution is to get one of his #109 Slapmaster Thrust Bearing assembly with the wider spacer normally used on 12R5. This unit will set up perfectly with the 3/32" balls in the spur.
And 16 of the 3/32" balls only weigh about half of what 12 of the 1/8" balls would...Good stuff.
Bill
The 3/32" balls being 1/32" smaller mean most racers will have their adjustment nut bottom out on the threads of the axle before the diff gets tightened. And overtightening here can pull the threads right out of the axle.
On one friend's car I used two red CRC spacers to be able to get the diff adjusted properly. It works.
But, the ultimate solution is to get one of his #109 Slapmaster Thrust Bearing assembly with the wider spacer normally used on 12R5. This unit will set up perfectly with the 3/32" balls in the spur.
And 16 of the 3/32" balls only weigh about half of what 12 of the 1/8" balls would...Good stuff.
Bill
#1089
Anyone know the length of the 4 red alu 8-33" screws that hold the bulkheads in place please ?
#1091
There is no need for it the factory car is awesome and still dominates our club track weekly against some secret squirrel inline car. Are cars carry so much more corner speed as is now.
#1092
#1093
Thanks for that mate :
#1094
Tech Master
Here's a pic of my car from a recent meeting at Ardent Raceway, here in the UK:
and my pit area:
and my pit area:
#1095
Tech Master
Can anyone tell me what the idea of the battery down the length of the chassis is? Not too sure about this, as if you can imagine the battery, RX, ESC and booster as one unit of weight, all's that is happening is that unit of weight is getting rotated 90 degrees. So what's the score with that please? Lengthening and widening the chassis, yep, get that, but not the battery down the length aproach.