Soldering Irons
08-31-2009, 09:45 AM
#16
I've got a Hakko 936. Probably the best $90 bucks I've ever spent. Tip that it comes with (chisel tip) has last quite a while.
08-31-2009, 10:57 AM
#17
I agree that 60 watts is plenty if you are not building batteries. I recently sold my 100 watt Weller because I am using all Lipo now and my 60 Watt does everything I need it to with the pencil tip. I have great looking joints with 10 gauge wire from it.
Im sure these points have been covered but Ill throw my opinion in here too.
Clean the tip often and allow the iron to rest between joints, this will give you maximum heat.
Use a high quality solder---this seems to be the most important. I have been soldering components for many years and I struggle with cheapo solder myself.
MOst solder posts on our equipment will soak up the solder like a sponge, so if there is a problem its usually in the wire. Take time and practice on old wire or something to get better at tinning. Also don't attempt to solder your new ESC up when you cant get the wires tinned properly, stop and find a way to get the wires nice and evenly covered with solder before continuing.
While practicing or in actual soldering situations, a good rule of thumb is that if you cant hold the wire you are soldering 2 inches back from the joint then it is too hot and can cause damage to your components.
Im sure these points have been covered but Ill throw my opinion in here too.
Clean the tip often and allow the iron to rest between joints, this will give you maximum heat.
Use a high quality solder---this seems to be the most important. I have been soldering components for many years and I struggle with cheapo solder myself.
MOst solder posts on our equipment will soak up the solder like a sponge, so if there is a problem its usually in the wire. Take time and practice on old wire or something to get better at tinning. Also don't attempt to solder your new ESC up when you cant get the wires tinned properly, stop and find a way to get the wires nice and evenly covered with solder before continuing.
While practicing or in actual soldering situations, a good rule of thumb is that if you cant hold the wire you are soldering 2 inches back from the joint then it is too hot and can cause damage to your components.
08-31-2009, 02:47 PM
#18
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
All good advice. I would also recommend having a no-clean electronics grade liquid or paste flux handy to help in those really stubborn joints. A little bit of flux can go a long way.
As for solderiong irons, I've gotten spoiled at work with the adundance of Metcal equipment at my disposal. I managed to get a broken Metcal rework station off ebay for around $60, and promptly brought it in to work to fix. After about $10 in parts from digikey, I had it working again. Not too bad. I also have nearly an unlimited supply of different tips. We tend to throw them away when they get ugly, but they are fine for hobby use after some cleanup. Less than 5 second heat up time is awesome.
As for solderiong irons, I've gotten spoiled at work with the adundance of Metcal equipment at my disposal. I managed to get a broken Metcal rework station off ebay for around $60, and promptly brought it in to work to fix. After about $10 in parts from digikey, I had it working again. Not too bad. I also have nearly an unlimited supply of different tips. We tend to throw them away when they get ugly, but they are fine for hobby use after some cleanup. Less than 5 second heat up time is awesome.
08-31-2009, 03:23 PM
#20
08-31-2009, 05:24 PM
#21
Ok well I've come to the conclusion that my soldering skills are just ass. I've got this nice new Tekin RS Speedo that I just can't wire up. I soldered the cap on that looks ok, but when it comes to the wires, all I can say is it's a miserable fail of epic proportions. I should have revisited this thread before I went to Frys. I bought a Weller Gun, it supposedly has 130 watts and 950F temps. Still no luck doing the wires. The posts measure 3mm in diameter. I'm about 3 seconds away from just soldering the female side of a connector like this ( http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Male-2-Female ) to my wires and slipping it onto the post. The Tekin instructions even show the wire being butt soldered to the top of the post, I tried that and it was not even close to working. I'm really frustrated with the whole set up.
08-31-2009, 05:47 PM
#22
Tech Elite
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Speed is important in soldering. But not to get on the track fast. An iron needs to be able to heat the work surface up very quickly before the part you're soldering starts to heat sink. This heat sinking can lead to component damage.
Ok well I've come to the conclusion that my soldering skills are just ass. I've got this nice new Tekin RS Speedo that I just can't wire up. I soldered the cap on that looks ok, but when it comes to the wires, all I can say is it's a miserable fail of epic proportions. I should have revisited this thread before I went to Frys. I bought a Weller Gun, it supposedly has 130 watts and 950F temps. Still no luck doing the wires. The posts measure 3mm in diameter. I'm about 3 seconds away from just soldering the female side of a connector like this ( http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Male-2-Female ) to my wires and slipping it onto the post. The Tekin instructions even show the wire being butt soldered to the top of the post, I tried that and it was not even close to working. I'm really frustrated with the whole set up.
http://www.hakkousa.com/kb/article.a...7&cNode=6I7X4C
There's more info if you browse around their site. Hope this helps.
08-31-2009, 05:48 PM
#23
Find an old piece of electronics lying around and practice like crazy on the wires. Once you get a good technique you will knock it out with ease.
08-31-2009, 05:51 PM
#24
Practicing right now with an extra chunk of wire. Tinning seems to be where I need the most help.
08-31-2009, 06:11 PM
#25
Do you have a flux? it helps to have it I don't use it as much anymore I pretty much got it down. I always use the rule of 3 seconds or more for bigger wires. 3sec to heat up the conductor before applying the solder or lead, cook it for 3 sec then let it cool down with out blowing on it or moving it. It helps if you have one of those little holder with alligator clips it acts like a third hand with out the shaking.
I hope this helps.
I hope this helps.
08-31-2009, 06:16 PM
#26
I forgot to buy flux, while I was at Frys.
08-31-2009, 06:33 PM
#27
That's fine you can still do it without.
08-31-2009, 06:37 PM
#28
Apparently I can't.
These solder posts seem like cruel joke. The seem to make things more difficult then they need to be.
These solder posts seem like cruel joke. The seem to make things more difficult then they need to be.
08-31-2009, 07:31 PM
#29
I'm about 3 seconds away from just soldering the female side of a connector like this ( http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Male-2-Female ) to my wires and slipping it onto the post.
60 watt, orange weller iron from home depot or sears with a clean chissle head
60/40 rosin core solder (lead free = headache)
A third hand
and last but not least, DONT practice on your ESC... practice on scrap pieces of wire.
08-31-2009, 09:03 PM
#30
Best tool for soldering for me was "third hand" from radio shack. It has 2 alligator clips on movable arms. The best tool yet to hold wire in place and not get to hot and get it done quick. same for esc's, you can hold iron and solder and nothing else to worry about. 
Just a suggestion from a soldering pilgrim on the road to not burning my fingers again
Just a suggestion from a soldering pilgrim on the road to not burning my fingers again