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Motor free run amp guidelines?
#1
Motor free run amp guidelines?
I have been searching the threads and either my "Search-Fu" blows or I am not hitting the right combo of words.
I'm looking for something pretty generic like:
2S 25.5 4.5A F1 VTA
2S 21.5 4.8A USGT
2S 17.5 5.9A Stock
Is there a rough guidleline or "rule of thumb" to follow? I only run "Blinky" classes. I do not have a motor analyzer yet and can only measure amp draw at this time. I saw the Nick Adams video on YouTube but was wondering if anyone has something else to go by.
TIA,
-two shoes
I'm looking for something pretty generic like:
2S 25.5 4.5A F1 VTA
2S 21.5 4.8A USGT
2S 17.5 5.9A Stock
Is there a rough guidleline or "rule of thumb" to follow? I only run "Blinky" classes. I do not have a motor analyzer yet and can only measure amp draw at this time. I saw the Nick Adams video on YouTube but was wondering if anyone has something else to go by.
TIA,
-two shoes
#2
The only other test is a dyno, but if you only have a motolyzer, then you will need to play with both timing and gearing to find the sweet spot...You can also run a few timed acceleration tests on a short straight to more or less get a feel for the pulling power of your motor setup, but that can be very time consuming... Good luck....
PS: Your amp numbers look pretty good, but I would still recommend a dyno tune in addition to lightening your vehicle's drivetrain...
PS: Your amp numbers look pretty good, but I would still recommend a dyno tune in addition to lightening your vehicle's drivetrain...
#4
Super Moderator
iTrader: (239)
I have been searching the threads and either my "Search-Fu" blows or I am not hitting the right combo of words.
I'm looking for something pretty generic like:
2S 25.5 4.5A F1 VTA
2S 21.5 4.8A USGT
2S 17.5 5.9A Stock
Is there a rough guidleline or "rule of thumb" to follow? I only run "Blinky" classes. I do not have a motor analyzer yet and can only measure amp draw at this time. I saw the Nick Adams video on YouTube but was wondering if anyone has something else to go by.
TIA,
-two shoes
I'm looking for something pretty generic like:
2S 25.5 4.5A F1 VTA
2S 21.5 4.8A USGT
2S 17.5 5.9A Stock
Is there a rough guidleline or "rule of thumb" to follow? I only run "Blinky" classes. I do not have a motor analyzer yet and can only measure amp draw at this time. I saw the Nick Adams video on YouTube but was wondering if anyone has something else to go by.
TIA,
-two shoes
Start with the recommended timing adjust the gearing and look at your lap times towards the end of the run and see if your motor is fading.
#8
I only have a motor analyzer, and I managed to pull a few faster guys down the straight at 360v2, but only at the end of the straight, which tells me I was either overgeared or overtimed at 7.8A on the analyzer... Turns out I was also overweight, with too much rotational mass(steel lcd drives) , and too much diff case air pressure(excessive windage).... I have since corrected all of the issues, and have gone back to 5.8A(3059kv) for more infield punch...
The setup does need to be adjusted further to take advantage of these changes, but I think I am close to optimum.... I only wished I had one of these crazy 3d printing machines, so I could build my all carbon hyperlightweight tc4(no metal whatsoever), just so I could run everybody down in 17.5t blinky.....lol....
The setup does need to be adjusted further to take advantage of these changes, but I think I am close to optimum.... I only wished I had one of these crazy 3d printing machines, so I could build my all carbon hyperlightweight tc4(no metal whatsoever), just so I could run everybody down in 17.5t blinky.....lol....
#9
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (19)
After talking to some experts in the industry and doing my own testing, there is no generic rule of thumb. What timing does is affect where the motor makes its power. Heavier cars or cars run on tight courses run better with lower timing, as the greatest power is made in the lower rpm ranges. As you run cars that are lighter or carry more corner speed, you can up the timing. Obviously gearing has a great affect too. So do you run lower timing for torque and gear up for speed? Or do you up the timing for speed and gear down for speed? The answer is: Depends. I like to think about the totality of the circumstances, including your driving style. Smoother drivers can keep the car rolling and the rpm up, whereas some drivers are really hard on the brakes and drive more punchy. I realize I probably haven't shed much light on your situation. What I have tried and used to not only find the "sweet spot" in my motors, but to also feel what differences in timing and gearing make is to test.
This is just an example and not meant to be used exactly. But lets just say your motor has an adjustable range up to 60* and it came from the factory at 40*. Throw it in the car with a conservative gearing. Then run the car and increase the pinion one tooth each run, watching lap times and temp and paying attention to feel. You'll get to a point where the motor gets too hot or the performance falls off. You'll find a pinion with that gearing that feels best. I recommend writing your results down by the way. Then go up 5* on the motor and start over with gearing. Continue this process up to 55*, or the range of adjustment you feel going up to. At some point in advancing the timing, the motor will cog and just run like crap. Keep records and note how the car feels. You'll not only find the best setting for your track, you'll figure out what adjustments do what for when the layout changes or you go to a different track. At my track, I will vary the gearing by two teeth on either side, depending on the layout. Don't think you'll find one timing setting and gearing and you can just never touch the motor again. It's something you'll adjust almost every layout. But once you go through the testing, you'll be able to find your ideal setting for track conditions rather quickly.
This is just an example and not meant to be used exactly. But lets just say your motor has an adjustable range up to 60* and it came from the factory at 40*. Throw it in the car with a conservative gearing. Then run the car and increase the pinion one tooth each run, watching lap times and temp and paying attention to feel. You'll get to a point where the motor gets too hot or the performance falls off. You'll find a pinion with that gearing that feels best. I recommend writing your results down by the way. Then go up 5* on the motor and start over with gearing. Continue this process up to 55*, or the range of adjustment you feel going up to. At some point in advancing the timing, the motor will cog and just run like crap. Keep records and note how the car feels. You'll not only find the best setting for your track, you'll figure out what adjustments do what for when the layout changes or you go to a different track. At my track, I will vary the gearing by two teeth on either side, depending on the layout. Don't think you'll find one timing setting and gearing and you can just never touch the motor again. It's something you'll adjust almost every layout. But once you go through the testing, you'll be able to find your ideal setting for track conditions rather quickly.