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Old 07-02-2010, 12:36 AM   #1066
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Originally Posted by Tabushi View Post
A friend of mine need to buy WHEELS for the F109 to mount rubbers on it ... anyone knows online store to buy F109 Wheels ?

thanks

Pat
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Any wheel for F103 fits.
You can use F104 wheels too, you will need a different wheel bearing in the front wheels but otherwise it will fit.

you will find wheels in many places but you could try :
INzaneRacing Ride rubber wheels complete set

Wheel bearings for front wheels: 5x10X4 mm
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Old 07-06-2010, 03:58 PM   #1067
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Yay my new F109 just arrived It is going to take awhile to get it completed as I plan to convert to the F104 front suspension and rear axle so I still have to get the front suspension parts and the wheels and tires. I did pick up the 3Racing rear axle parts for the F104 already and the front camber adjuster for the F104 from 3Racing as well. Looking forward to getting this built!
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Old 07-06-2010, 07:39 PM   #1068
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The longer the link from the chassis to motor pod, the more rear stability.

This is why the 12R5, GenXL and others now feature extended links.

I would run the forward holes on the chassis for lower traction.


My back end is loose accelerating out of a corner and am considering trying the longer link but not sure how this works. The previous treads state there is more stability but not sure why! Is this working like a camber link and effectively changing the roll center? Any comments on this would be greatly appreciated.
Also, where can I get some ball cups that will fit on these links?
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Old 07-06-2010, 07:57 PM   #1069
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The reason longer links give you more stability is because it decreases rear steer. When the pod pivots the higher end gets pulled in by the link which decreases the wheel base on that side of the car. How much the pod gets pulled is determined by the arc in which the side link travels. The shorter the link is the more drastic the arc is. The longer the link is the less drastic the arc is so the wheel gets pulled in less toward the front. Kinda hard to describe without pictures...hope it was somewhat clear enough.
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Old 07-06-2010, 08:33 PM   #1070
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
The reason longer links give you more stability is because it decreases rear steer. When the pod pivots the higher end gets pulled in by the link which decreases the wheel base on that side of the car. How much the pod gets pulled is determined by the arc in which the side link travels. The shorter the link is the more drastic the arc is. The longer the link is the less drastic the arc is so the wheel gets pulled in less toward the front. Kinda hard to describe without pictures...hope it was somewhat clear enough.
Thanks for the reply. I can see that on a corner the weight would go to the ouside and thereby effectively making this link shorter. This would cause the rear to turn in more with the short link than the longer link. Makes sense and will give it a try with the longer links as soon as I find some more ball cups.
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Old 07-09-2010, 01:37 AM   #1071
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I am going to a race meeting running on a slippery concrete surface.We aren't allowed to run traction compound.I normally run trg soft rears and hard fronts.I am interested in running ride and shimiytzu tyres.On rcmarts website it says both tyres are soft compounds with diffrent part nos.R1 and r3.
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Old 07-09-2010, 11:25 AM   #1072
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Thanks for the reply. I can see that on a corner the weight would go to the ouside and thereby effectively making this link shorter. This would cause the rear to turn in more with the short link than the longer link. Makes sense and will give it a try with the longer links as soon as I find some more ball cups.
My previous reply was general in terms of why the longer works under normal conditions...now that I have my car assembled I am not so sure the same is going to hold true because the pivot points no longer match the center pivot which is going to cause some strange things to happen because the pod and the links are no longer moving in the same arcs. Theoretically it should be better...but as 3Racing has applied it, it may not be.
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Old 07-09-2010, 04:29 PM   #1073
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I tried the longer link location -couldn't tell the diff-foams and asphalt-med -low traction.Car still had hella steering.
went back to stock .
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Old 07-09-2010, 06:14 PM   #1074
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if any one is intrested i have my F1-09 for sale here:
3Racing F1-09 for Sale
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Old 07-10-2010, 02:55 PM   #1075
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Well none of the F109 or F104 bodies I have seen have really been appealing to me...so after seeing someone's pic with all his F1s next to each other it got me thinking. So here's what I'm trying out...it appears to fit just fine



Anyone figure out which body it is and what car it is for?

I haven't cut out the front suspension area yet as I am planning to put the F104 front suspension on the car and haven't got it yet.
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Old 07-10-2010, 03:13 PM   #1076
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It's a f201 shell
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Old 07-10-2010, 03:36 PM   #1077
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Yup...and it fits nicely and looks a lot better than most of the F104 bodies out there IMO.
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Old 07-10-2010, 04:16 PM   #1078
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Will the rear tires clear the body?

Can't wait to see it run.
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Old 07-10-2010, 05:28 PM   #1079
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The foam tires just barely clear but I'm not sure on the F104 rubber tires..will find out soon. I'll be swapping from the 103 to the 109 probably at the end of next month.
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Old 07-10-2010, 07:10 PM   #1080
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That 201 body fits much better than I expected!
I have decided not to change to the longer links yet but put on the 3.5mm ofset front spindles. Placed limiters in my shock to have no droop and placed the yellow tamiya shock spring on. I will be racing tomorrow and hopefully will have a more stable rear end coming out of the corners.
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