3racing F109
#1006
#1007
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
RIDE's tires and wheels are in stock now !!
Click here to check out.
You can order online @ www.tqrcracing.com
Click here to check out.
You can order online @ www.tqrcracing.com
Last edited by spring71; 06-02-2010 at 09:16 AM.
#1008
Tech Champion
Cool...I hope to order some soon as I have some money. I keep seeing mention of a medium Ride tire that looks like a slick instead of having grooves...are you looking to get those in as well?
#1009
Tech Rookie
#1010
Does anybody has experience with the spur gears from Kawada?
With these the diff balls are not on one circle but on two. Also the number of diff balls is higher than with the original Tamiya ones. So it should run more smoothly.
Also the spur gears lack molding to keep the ball bearing in the outer diff part in place (I hope you understand what I mean).
With these the diff balls are not on one circle but on two. Also the number of diff balls is higher than with the original Tamiya ones. So it should run more smoothly.
Also the spur gears lack molding to keep the ball bearing in the outer diff part in place (I hope you understand what I mean).
#1011
#1013
+ YouTube Video | |
To my surprise the inside spring mod transformed the way the car handled this part – suddenly I could hold the line lap after lap with great consistency. I’m not sure if the mod will make any big difference on a more regular flat track – but it really worked wonders in Boras.
#1014
Yes this idea started from our discussion on pod jacking. This was my first test with increased droop and a spring inside the shock. Boras is a tight and undulating track; especially the short straight with a compression and short downhill straight has caused very erratic behaviour with problems to hold a predictable line into the following lefthander (look at the video - the short straight in front of the drivers stand).
To my surprise the inside spring mod transformed the way the car handled this part – suddenly I could hold the line lap after lap with great consistency. I’m not sure if the mod will make any big difference on a more regular flat track – but it really worked wonders in Boras.
To my surprise the inside spring mod transformed the way the car handled this part – suddenly I could hold the line lap after lap with great consistency. I’m not sure if the mod will make any big difference on a more regular flat track – but it really worked wonders in Boras.
http://www.youtube.com/user/Desawa82#p/u/0/2u1EPHiLg0o
I'm glad the anti-jacking spring helped; it should have a similar effect to the thicker t-bar on my car, and that was a big improvement. As you say, probably not much use on a smooth track, but great when there's a few bumps.
#1015
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...atever-91.html
#1016
Used to run those Tamiya F1 springs inside the rear shocks on a Tamiya FF01 FWD car back in the mid 90's, no one could catch me after
#1017
Can anyone tell me how servo angle and saver position in the car effects bump and ackerman?
A few of us were tossing around the idea of running a 1/12 servo but I am not sure on the effects of angeling it (like a 1/12 car) or blocking it up.
Thanks.
A few of us were tossing around the idea of running a 1/12 servo but I am not sure on the effects of angeling it (like a 1/12 car) or blocking it up.
Thanks.
#1018
Bag MD - wrong M2 spacer?
I am currently building my F1-09 and come across a problem with the rolling damper installation.
The rolling damper should go into the rear ball mount and will be fixed by M2 screws in connection with a M2x5.4x0.9 spacer.
The spacer supplied is 4.6 wide instead of 5.4 (also there is only one M3x6x1 spacer where there should be two according to the manual).
The shock shaft doesn't fit 100% inside the ball mount, i.e. if you tighten the screw on one side the shock shaft comes up on the other side.
In addition the spacers are too small to hold the rolling damper in place.
I wonder if I did something wrong or if I have wrong parts.
To solve this issue at first I used some bigger spacers below the supplied one (see picture).
The rolling damper should go into the rear ball mount and will be fixed by M2 screws in connection with a M2x5.4x0.9 spacer.
The spacer supplied is 4.6 wide instead of 5.4 (also there is only one M3x6x1 spacer where there should be two according to the manual).
The shock shaft doesn't fit 100% inside the ball mount, i.e. if you tighten the screw on one side the shock shaft comes up on the other side.
In addition the spacers are too small to hold the rolling damper in place.
I wonder if I did something wrong or if I have wrong parts.
To solve this issue at first I used some bigger spacers below the supplied one (see picture).
Last edited by orci77; 06-04-2010 at 12:56 AM.
#1019
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Tween a Rock & a Hard Place in Pa.
Posts: 1,279
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
I am currently building my F1-09 and come across a problem with the rolling damper installation.
The rolling damper should go into the rear ball mount and will be fixed by M2 screws in connection with a M2x5.4x0.9 spacer.
The spacer supplied is 4.6 wide instead of 5.4 (also there is only one M3x6x1 spacer where there should be two according to the manual).
The shock shaft doesn't fit 100% inside the ball mount, i.e. if you tighten the screw on one side the shock shaft comes up on the other side.
In addition the spacers are too small to hold the rolling damper in place.
I wonder if I did something wrong or if I have wrong parts.
To solve this issue at first I used some bigger spacers bellow the supplied one (see picture).
The rolling damper should go into the rear ball mount and will be fixed by M2 screws in connection with a M2x5.4x0.9 spacer.
The spacer supplied is 4.6 wide instead of 5.4 (also there is only one M3x6x1 spacer where there should be two according to the manual).
The shock shaft doesn't fit 100% inside the ball mount, i.e. if you tighten the screw on one side the shock shaft comes up on the other side.
In addition the spacers are too small to hold the rolling damper in place.
I wonder if I did something wrong or if I have wrong parts.
To solve this issue at first I used some bigger spacers bellow the supplied one (see picture).
JD; fishing on the 109 thread??-
Hint;;it has to do with 22.5*laydown in the arc(smooths the steering out)flat arcs tend to make a more aggressive steering input.Has some effect on bump and $#%@^^%as well.
I'm playing around with a front steer config.now-I used to do that with my old trinity 1/12.
Last edited by GasGod; 06-03-2010 at 03:04 PM.