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Old 01-30-2010, 07:21 PM   #616
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sumtimes it not how hard the hit is but where the hit was. most cars have weak spots and maybe thats jus one for this car sadly.
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Old 01-30-2010, 10:37 PM   #617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
The hole in the chassis is too close to the edge of the chassis I think that if I use the front hole and a longer reaction rod then I may not need a new chassis

I cannot believe such a small hit on the wall did so much damage

I will speak with my importer and see what happens
I can tell you the worst damage always comes with "light brushes". The cars are designed to crash head on, but catching an axle or wheel on a barrier is almost always bad news. I have seen a lot of tc cars lose a wheel and arm/knuckle/caster block from brushing a wall.
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Old 01-31-2010, 01:16 AM   #618
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
The hole in the chassis is too close to the edge of the chassis I think that if I use the front hole and a longer reaction rod then I may not need a new chassis

I cannot believe such a small hit on the wall did so much damage

I will speak with my importer and see what happens
I expect a new chassis will be there before you know it
Looks like this was a result of too loose links or binding links. On the other side I would always make the links long, its better for the cars stability.
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Old 01-31-2010, 02:20 AM   #619
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Are you saying that the length of motor turnbuckle has a important impact?
+ length= car is understeer
- length = car is oversteer

?
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Old 01-31-2010, 03:25 AM   #620
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Had a little time on my hands so made a ' How to make a flashing LED set' tutorial for my F1 take a look it only takes 10 mins to build one

http://thercracer.blogspot.com/2010/...-tutorial.html
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Last edited by Qatmix; 01-31-2010 at 07:07 AM.
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Old 01-31-2010, 04:30 AM   #621
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kryss View Post
Are you saying that the length of motor turnbuckle has a important impact?
+ length= car is understeer
- length = car is oversteer

?
I must say that I really doubt this will work - the pivot points for the middle ball and the side link balls must be in line ... or is it just me that's stupid?..most probably
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Old 01-31-2010, 04:59 AM   #622
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsxr0311 View Post
inzane, can you tell me what crc parts u upgraded to your car ? how many part # is there. i dont have a crc but want to do the upgrade to myf109 so i dont want to miss any parts on the order, thanks

1295 - Side Spring- Blue - Soft


1296 - Side Spring- White - Med


1256 - Chrome Pivot balls (optional, if you use these you will need two short 4-40 flat head screws as well)


1287 - Metal Spring Holders (holders and long 4-40 tweak screws) or the 3387 - molded spring holder - but then you have to buy the tweak screws (1391) separately.

You can find most part here >>
or here >>

Last edited by InZane; 01-31-2010 at 06:34 AM.
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Old 01-31-2010, 07:10 AM   #623
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kryss View Post
Are you saying that the length of motor turnbuckle has a important impact?
+ length= car is understeer
- length = car is oversteer

?
The longer the link from the chassis to motor pod, the more rear stability.

This is why the 12R5, GenXL and others now feature extended links.

I would run the forward holes on the chassis for lower traction.
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Old 01-31-2010, 07:57 AM   #624
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To me this sounds hard to understand - possibly because of my limited intelligence

Doesn't the three "hinge points" have to be in line. I can buy the idea to extend the links - but only if you move the link balls at the other end.

For me the three hinge points are similar to a door - the right door should be hard to move ... or am I totally lost?


Bad photoshop job by me ...

edit ...

Of course I'm aware that a linked motor pod and a door differs in that a door only swings in one direction (open- close) while the movement of a linked motorpod is up&down and side to side. But the off line hinge problem is anyway the same - In My Very Humble Opinion.

Last edited by InZane; 01-31-2010 at 08:12 AM.
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Old 01-31-2010, 08:16 AM   #625
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I am a happy man chassis replaced and I am running the rear motor pod supports in the front holes Tyres taken down 1.5mm and the ride height is 4.5 front 5.0 rear and using a 17.7 motor on my SPX the 3Racing F1-09 is running really well
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Old 01-31-2010, 10:35 AM   #626
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Ok day over , went well with no breakages I put the SPX in with a 17.5 the brushed silvercan was just too slowfor me and Joey , we were struggling with grip roll a lot , so I placed a 1mm spacer under the side springmounts to make the rear a little stiffer and it seem to work , the car iswell planted and drives well , I just need to be sure of not hitting the barriers
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Old 01-31-2010, 12:17 PM   #627
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thanks a lot inzane for the parts list.
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Old 02-01-2010, 03:09 PM   #628
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Hi!

Can I replace front steering blocks by this part:
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-f10...9-p-27565.html
?

Or which one from tamiyas will fit F109?

Regards!
m.
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Old 02-01-2010, 03:22 PM   #629
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those will work. I ordered mine from 3racing and installed them last week. Fit with no issues.

Quote:
Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz View Post
Hi!

Can I replace front steering blocks by this part:
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-f10...9-p-27565.html
?

Or which one from tamiyas will fit F109?

Regards!
m.
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Old 02-01-2010, 03:23 PM   #630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InZane View Post
To me this sounds hard to understand - possibly because of my limited intelligence

Doesn't the three "hinge points" have to be in line. I can buy the idea to extend the links - but only if you move the link balls at the other end.

For me the three hinge points are similar to a door - the right door should be hard to move ... or am I totally lost?

Bad photoshop job by me ...

edit ...

Of course I'm aware that a linked motor pod and a door differs in that a door only swings in one direction (open- close) while the movement of a linked motorpod is up&down and side to side. But the off line hinge problem is anyway the same - In My Very Humble Opinion.
It's like a camber link, in that there is less migration the longer the link. The effective length of the link changes less when it is longer.

In the end though, the link just locates the rear axle in terms of alignment. The links are free radially and axially, so they are not like a door which only rotates. There may be issues beyond this, but I'm not sure what they are
I do have my car like this right now (long link), and it works fine.
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