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Old 11-24-2009, 06:30 AM   #346
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My F109 is working good on indoor asphalt now that I've converted it to use CRC red side springs and crc .050 front springs. Also I've fitted an Xray 1/12th scale shock since I didn't have a softer spring that would fit on the kit's shock. The Xray 1/12th shock fits just fine and I had an extra one in the pit box. It's on there because the spring is a good deal softer than the F109's kit spring. Once these changes were made, the car now drives almost like an oversized 1/12th scale car. I'm using a 1cell lipo and a 10.5 novak brushless motor. That seems to be about the limit of what the F109 will handle comfortably. Great fun to drive. It's an excellent F1 package. IMO way better than the tamiya offerings since the F109 is far more adjustable. Not to mention the super reasonable cost for a very nice kit.
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Old 11-24-2009, 09:48 AM   #347
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What can I say? - absolutely beautiful! You're setting the standard for the rest of us. I really like the small details like the blue front arm turnbuckles.
Thanks for your reply and praise.
I just wonder for somebody to tell if my car has any problem if it really has, in fact this is my 1st F1 i have ever built by myself, i am still will borrow the car to my friend, which had run F1 car almost 20 years, to make some adjustments.

Could anybody tell me what TRF springs should i have using in F1?
In fact i am using red spring.

How much watt of silicone oil will you guys put in the main damper, please?
I put Trinity 20WT oil in my TRF damper.

And how much watt of silicone oil will you guys put in the rolling damper, please?
I guess it should be so much thicker oil, maybe 40 or 50 WT oil, isn't it?
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Old 11-24-2009, 04:00 PM   #348
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Originally Posted by mac853 View Post
Thanks for your reply and praise.
I just wonder for somebody to tell if my car has any problem if it really has, in fact this is my 1st F1 i have ever built by myself, i am still will borrow the car to my friend, which had run F1 car almost 20 years, to make some adjustments.

Could anybody tell me what TRF springs should i have using in F1?
In fact i am using red spring.

How much watt of silicone oil will you guys put in the main damper, please?
I put Trinity 20WT oil in my TRF damper.

And how much watt of silicone oil will you guys put in the rolling damper, please?
I guess it should be so much thicker oil, maybe 40 or 50 WT oil, isn't it?
Use the 1 hole piston in the rolling dampner. Otherwise any oil feels like water
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Old 11-25-2009, 05:51 AM   #349
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Use the 1 hole piston in the rolling dampner. Otherwise any oil feels like water
Ok, thanks for your recommend!
In fact i will run in small outdoor asphalt circuit, if i really using 1 hole piston, then how much watts of oil must use?

Best regards
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Old 11-25-2009, 06:32 AM   #350
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The yellow tamiya spring is there standard TC spring, the hubs are a one off, I designed them and turned them up on a lathe, if a few people want them I may make a few sets, there is a lot of work in them.

Regards
Gary
I have a lathe and mill of my own. Can you tell me what hubs you started with and the rest of it I'm sure I can figure out. Thanks for your help....
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Old 11-25-2009, 08:12 AM   #351
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Default F1 Race Info. Sunday 11/29 at WCRC

Let's see those F109

UF1 Format changes for Sunday Nov. 29
We will be running the same Super Qual + 3 mains at WCRC on Sunday with the following changes:

Rubber and foam run together. The story is that this track will hook up with foam as well as rubber. Bring it. Race it. Prove it.

Chassis/Motor rules:
Direct rear wheel drive 1/10 scale open wheel car (F1 style)
540 sized motors silver can, black can, TCS 32 turn, or 21.5BL

SQ
Due to popular demand, qualifier will be open track instead of multiple 2 minute groups. Just put your car down and drive as fast as you can. We will limit the number of drivers on the track at any given time to 5 or less. After 4-5 minutes time will be called and drivers will pull aside for the next 5 drivers. Qualifying order will be randomly determined (but you can swap with anyone who is willing). If we have 15 or more drivers, the qualifying time will be extended beyond 15 minutes. Drivers might have an opportunity to make a second run at a fast lap if we have enough time and open slots.
Three things to think about for the SQ.
1) Time will be limited between the SQ and the first main to recharge batteries or cool you motor
2) Fast qualifier gets an extra point added to his/her score (yes, it does make a difference)
3) Grid order of first main will be based upon fast lap in the SQ
If we have a turnout of 14 or less drivers, we will run one group all together.

If we have 15 or more we will try something different for DNF and DNS drivers from the higher main groups. If you are in the A group and can not make the grid (DNS) or complete 8 laps (DNF) you will have an opportunity to run at the back of the B group. Although you will receive no score for that round, a good run with the B group can place you in the A group for the next round. If you are in the last group and DNF or DNS TL (tough luck).

OTHER THINGS TO CONSIDER:
Doors open at 10
Sign in closes and drivers meeting at 11
SQ at 11:30
Third round HAS to be done before 3:00 for off road, so this will be very fast paced if we end up with two race groups
Track will be open practice between rounds
SoCal UF1 scoring format (ask if you don't know where to find it)
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Old 11-25-2009, 10:10 AM   #352
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How much front wheel camber sould I run on my F-109? Thanks
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Old 11-25-2009, 11:28 PM   #353
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I am running mine with the F104 rear axle and diff unit (same having to rebuild and reste diff when changing a wheel) and have also fitten the whole front arm section from the F103 (someone broke their front end and didn't want to fit 103 front end, so I sold them mine as I have plenty 103 fronts)

Chassis plates and rear motor pod are the only things that are truly F109
All axle and shaft parts can be swapped with F103.

Am looking to milling out spare 103 axle height parts to fit Pro10 bearings so a pro10 rear axle can be fitted (allows for wider damp tyre choice)
hi my names is Sergio and i live in Madrid (Spain),i have a 3racing f109 but i like change the tire for the tamiya f104 model o for the calandra genx10 but i don't know doing (my english level is very low)
i like see pictures from your f109 with the mods (parts of tamiya included) for i know tht parts need change for mount the tamiya f104 wheels

hank you very much
Sergio
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Old 11-26-2009, 04:33 AM   #354
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Hey all.

i built my kit today. still have to organise motor/esc and buy a low profile servo. couple of things i want to upgrade are the servo saver, the steering arms (lots of flex) and the caster adjuster.

only other thing i dont like about this car is the turnbuckle/tie-rod style links between the chassis and the bottom plate at the rear. There is no reason for these to be adjustable and if they are not exactly the same length the car will be sortof tweaked. has anyone found a solution that just has two solid pieces to connect.

These ones are what my Associated RC12R5 has:
3racing F109-associatedrc12r5-3.jpg
Is there anything like this i could get?

thanks
Alex
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Old 11-26-2009, 10:28 AM   #355
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Actually, the tie rods do need to be adjustable. The 12R5 you showed has fixed links because the center pivot is adjustable. The 109 center pivot is fixed. This is similar to the SpeedMerchant 1/12 cars, which have adjustable links like the 109. Check out the post below to find out how to adjust the links

3racing F109
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Old 11-26-2009, 11:47 AM   #356
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hello I wonder what parts need to change to put the rear of the F104

For user Nimo I like that you might set a photo of your F109 with the changes you have made

Thanks for all.

You you are helping me a lot thanks
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Old 11-26-2009, 01:24 PM   #357
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Originally Posted by sergi82 View Post
hello I wonder what parts need to change to put the rear of the F104

For user Nimo I like that you might set a photo of your F109 with the changes you have made

Thanks for all.

You you are helping me a lot thanks
I used the full rear axle and diff/hubs from the F104
This fitted directly in to the F109 rear axle bearings and motor mount

I still have the F109 axle/diff/hubs to one side that can be put in as a complete item.

Am still looking in to putting a CRC GenX10 rear axle in to the pod with minimal mods, and will post my findings here (work and home stuff has taken up my time at present, plus doing 5 race meetings in 6 weekends, and the up coming AGM for the club (I'm the race director))
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Old 11-26-2009, 07:35 PM   #358
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Is it possible to fit F103GT style front hubs to this chassis so that it can use hex drive front wheels?

Would this effect the geometry of the car?
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Old 11-26-2009, 11:38 PM   #359
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Hi my side springs collapse they no longer center even when there is not motor in the chassis.. Ihave been checking every day the 3racing suite for the side spring but they are not in stock yet. what can I do.
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Old 11-27-2009, 01:27 AM   #360
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robk View Post
Actually, the tie rods do need to be adjustable. The 12R5 you showed has fixed links because the center pivot is adjustable. The 109 center pivot is fixed. This is similar to the SpeedMerchant 1/12 cars, which have adjustable links like the 109. Check out the post below to find out how to adjust the links

3racing F109


ahhhh,
very true. never thought of that. there's lots too all these little pan style cars. thanks heaps for the info. will go home and sort it out.

thanks
Alex
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