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Old 11-11-2009, 06:07 PM   #316
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Originally Posted by isuzuguy View Post
yea i got one ! wait to you get one first ! lol
Hey Hey its in the mail okay! that means its on its way aight dad! lol
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Old 11-12-2009, 04:53 AM   #317
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does anyone have any building tips they would like to share?

I’ve made a step by step building post for a Swedish RC car forum. Maybe you can find some useful tips in this shortened English (not my native language – sorry) version. You can find additional pics here>





The centre and side shocks are very easy to assemble. You can rub the o-rings with AE “green Slime” for even better sealing.



Place a sheet of 600-800 grit wet/dry sand paper on a flat surface. Place the rings on the sand paper and using your fingers and sand the shine off the rings. Make sure they're clean and free of any debris before you put your diff together.



The AW Grease DG2 is intended to be used on the diff balls. I was a bit suspicious about this silvery goo but it seems to work OK.



Check that the thrust bearing plates drops down into place by just a light tap on the opposite side of the axle against the table.



Mount both wheels on the axle, tighten the diff nut until the spur gear is very hard to turn with your thumb when simultaneously holding both tires firmly with your hands. Adjust from that when you do your first track tests.



I had to adjust the chassis plate holes for the ball link holder in order to have them 100% aligned (use a hobby knife).



Put pressure on the ball holder sides when tightening the screws the first time in order to straighten everything up.



If you did this right the side shock axle shouldn’t have more than very slight play in its groove.



Bevel the hole for the side spring for a smoother spring action.



Be very careful to get the rear pod parallel with the chassi plate – robk has a good post (#209) how to achieve this.



This is how the caster plate should be mounted – manual is incorrect!



I cut the thumb screw threads down to about half for faster and easier battery changes.



Wiring should be clean and be careful that rear pod movement is not obstructed by your motor cables.



Check that the chassis/wiring goes free from the body as well.



I shortened the front part of the body so it’s now better protected inside of the bumper/wing



The F1-09 is a very nice kit and there’s really no big issues building it. I hope we can share more building and set up tips in this thread – Good Luck with your new car!
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Old 11-12-2009, 06:04 AM   #318
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Just bought 2 kits with extra springs of rcmart for me and a mate at work.....
10 left in stock now
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Old 11-12-2009, 11:28 AM   #319
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thanks,
also. Is there a pdf manual around somewhere. I need to know what size clips and screws are so i can order spares. cant find manual on 3R's site


If not. can someone tell me what size (in mm) the e-clips are. and also what size the axles are so i can get some shims.

thanks
Alex


I scanned my manual (14 Mb .pdf-file)- I hope this can be to any help.
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Old 11-12-2009, 11:30 AM   #320
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Sorry - double post. Please remove this
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Old 11-12-2009, 02:39 PM   #321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InZane View Post
I’ve made a step by step building post for a Swedish RC car forum. Maybe you can find some useful tips in this shortened English (not my native language – sorry) version. You can find additional pics here>





The centre and side shocks are very easy to assemble. You can rub the o-rings with AE “green Slime” for even better sealing.



Place a sheet of 600-800 grit wet/dry sand paper on a flat surface. Place the rings on the sand paper and using your fingers and sand the shine off the rings. Make sure they're clean and free of any debris before you put your diff together.



The AW Grease DG2 is intended to be used on the diff balls. I was a bit suspicious about this silvery goo but it seems to work OK.



Check that the thrust bearing plates drops down into place by just a light tap on the opposite side of the axle against the table.



Mount both wheels on the axle, tighten the diff nut until the spur gear is very hard to turn with your thumb when simultaneously holding both tires firmly with your hands. Adjust from that when you do your first track tests.



I had to adjust the chassis plate holes for the ball link holder in order to have them 100% aligned (use a hobby knife).



Put pressure on the ball holder sides when tightening the screws the first time in order to straighten everything up.



If you did this right the side shock axle shouldn’t have more than very slight play in its groove.



Bevel the hole for the side spring for a smoother spring action.



Be very careful to get the rear pod parallel with the chassi plate – robk has a good post (#209) how to achieve this.



This is how the caster plate should be mounted – manual is incorrect!



I cut the thumb screw threads down to about half for faster and easier battery changes.



Wiring should be clean and be careful that rear pod movement is not obstructed by your motor cables.



Check that the chassis/wiring goes free from the body as well.



I shortened the front part of the body so it’s now better protected inside of the bumper/wing



The F1-09 is a very nice kit and there’s really no big issues building it. I hope we can share more building and set up tips in this thread – Good Luck with your new car!
Your attention to detail is inspiring. Thank you for sharing. It will help others get this new car up to speed quicker.

Have you considered using a smaller gauge wire from the speedo to the motor? It looks like you have 12ga from the pics. You might want to consider 14ga or 16ga. This will free up the rear pod. Thicker wire will tend to bind the pod up. You can get away with the smaller wire even with the lowest of the low-turn motors. Remember, these cars are lighter than TC's and are rear wheel drive, so less heat transferred to the electronics (relatively speaking ).

Again, nice job on the build!

-Steve
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Old 11-12-2009, 05:42 PM   #322
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Another building tip on the dampers is to polish the damper shaft with metal polish till they shine. Mount it on a cordless drill. It will make the damper a lot smoother.
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Old 11-15-2009, 07:54 PM   #323
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Can I use 48 pitch spur/pinion on the F109?
and what would be the pros and cons of using 48 pitch over 64 pitch


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Old 11-16-2009, 07:53 AM   #324
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Originally Posted by runinonempty View Post
Can I use 48 pitch spur/pinion on the F109?
and what would be the pros and cons of using 48 pitch over 64 pitch


Cheers
64p gives a smoother operation, but needs to be closer meshed, and is prone to debris.
48p is not as smooth but also does not need to be meshed as close, so is better for where you may be prone to debris getting in to the spur teeth.

Normal rule is 64p indoor 48p outdoor

pitch rating is not as noticable on a pan car than it is in a Touring car.

(i still run 64p outdoors and bitch about the debris )
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Old 11-16-2009, 03:18 PM   #325
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Cheers Nimo thanks for the advise
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Old 11-16-2009, 08:10 PM   #326
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Default Need more rear grip

Hi all

Well I gave the car a run on the weekend, very hot day on a outdoor track, the track had good grip, the car had too much steering, very easy to get oversteer and the back would slide out.
I tried some weight at the back and it did help, but still need more rear grip.

The setup was out of the box, has anybody run the car on a outdoor track ?

I am making rear hubs to take jaco tires, the same as the other drivers are using on there cars, this may help.

In the last run I lost one of the rear side springs, does anyone know a replacement I can use.

Regards
Gary
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Old 11-17-2009, 06:26 PM   #327
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I too have over steering problem. Tried almost everything but with only slight improvement. My F103GT handles 10X better but since its a LC70 Courage body it may be different, but should not be that far off.

I am beginning to believe the kit tires in the earlier batch and the later batch may have grip issues especially the rear tires. I too have this problem.

Anyone tried with F104 tires?
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Old 11-17-2009, 09:29 PM   #328
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For those of you having loose handling issues, try the following....link cars listen to their center shocks to a great degree. Changing the center spring to a softer rate will reduce off power steering. Changing the droop of the rear pod by either shortening or lengthening the shock ball end will help load up the rear tires when you see fit at the appropriate time in the corner. These link cars are very sensitive and thus quite adjustable to our individual driving tastes. Stick with the tuning.
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Old 11-20-2009, 04:19 PM   #329
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First track tests today with my F1-09, I'm impressed - Very Impressed!

This car has great potential. Definitely equivalent with my Tamiya F104Pro - and that's BOX STOCK!

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Old 11-21-2009, 08:14 AM   #330
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Set up - Track Test no. 1 (carpet, high grip)



Rear Tires: Kit, 57mm full width treatment ( LRP)
Gearing: 25/98
Motor: 27T, brushed
Battery: Lipo IB 5000 mAh
Rear shock, kit shock oil, Tamiya yellow touring spring
Side shock, kit shock oil.
Ride height 4mm (front/rear)
Front tires: Kit, 55mm no treament
Front springs: Kit
Camber: -1 deg.
Caster: caster plate forward (least amount of caster)
Wings: Kit
Body: Kit
Servo: BueBird BMS-761DD Digital Low Profile
Servo saver: Kit (works excellent!)
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