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Old 11-05-2009, 08:52 PM   #271
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Originally Posted by runinonempty View Post
Hi Guys,

I have a couple of questions for my F109 that is being delivered next week.
First of all will a normal steering servo fit or do I need to get a low profile one?

what up grades do you recomend I will be running on low traction asphelt with a 17.5 brushles motor.

last of all what spares should I stock up on for racing?


Cheers.
normal servo will do

get a alum servo saver.
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Old 11-05-2009, 11:12 PM   #272
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has any one tried fitting a normal tamiya f103 body set onto the f109...such as sauber c12 or f310b body sets? heard that the f109's chassis is too wide at the rear section to fit the tamiya body sets?
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Old 11-06-2009, 02:19 AM   #273
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There shouldn't be any problems as long as you cut it for the F1-09 chassis. >>

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Old 11-06-2009, 05:12 AM   #274
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hi, anyone has driven this F109 on the track? i keep spinning out in corner & our corners.

The rear side damper & top damper i use the stock oil. But i think the side damper & spring is too soft.

I drive my f103 it handles much better, i must be missing something.

Any idea? pls help

ps i am using

black can motor
4000 mah lipo
Novak GTX esc
98 spur/26pinion

tires zen front shore 38, rear shore 30

do i need to add weights at the rear?
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Old 11-06-2009, 08:42 AM   #275
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Originally Posted by SuperEk4 View Post
hi, anyone has driven this F109 on the track? i keep spinning out in corner & our corners.

The rear side damper & top damper i use the stock oil. But i think the side damper & spring is too soft.

I drive my f103 it handles much better, i must be missing something.

Any idea? pls help

ps i am using

black can motor
4000 mah lipo
Novak GTX esc
98 spur/26pinion

tires zen front shore 38, rear shore 30

do i need to add weights at the rear?
for bk's track, you can try stiffer spring with heavier damping&shock oil... this will reduce the lateral weight transfer at the back to allow the rear to stick more...

stick to the stock tires also... the zens give too much steering even with 38fr and 25rr.... stock tires very well balanced....

push your front arms back to gain more caster... should give less turn-in and also gain on-power stability...

rear ride height also keep it low at approx 5mm... droop also impt... too much spring preload unsettles the rear too...

Last edited by katze; 11-06-2009 at 09:04 AM.
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Old 11-06-2009, 08:59 AM   #276
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Originally Posted by katze View Post
for bk's track, you can try stiffer spring with heavier damping&shock oil... this will reduce the lateral weight transfer at the back to allow the rear to stick more...

stick to the stock tires also... the zens give too much steering even with 38fr and 25rr.... stock tires very well balanced....

rear ride height also keep it low at approx 5mm... droop also impt... too much spring preload unsettles the rear too...
hey thxs! i thought we need more grip to the rear as the rear keeps sliding. so by putting stiffer spring & oil will help? how abt the side damper? heavier oil too?

i saw this advise by a pro here use crc springs for the F109 side springs. I find the side damping of f109 too loose.

as for the front caster whats recommended & how do i adjust the droop? thx!
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Old 11-06-2009, 09:16 AM   #277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperEk4 View Post
hey thxs! i thought we need more grip to the rear as the rear keeps sliding. so by putting stiffer spring & oil will help? how abt the side damper? heavier oil too?

i saw this advise by a pro here use crc springs for the F109 side springs. I find the side damping of f109 too loose.

as for the front caster whats recommended & how do i adjust the droop? thx!
the main culprit here is really ur tires... i used 38fr and 25rr and its already too twitchy...

a stiffer spring actually plants the rear for F1s as it "pushes" the rear down...actually, i am waiting for the option springs to come... the side roll springs are too soft thus causing too much side roll... i compensate with heavier damper oil for now but the eventual soln will be to change the springs too....

for the caster, i push the top of the arm as far back as the servo horn will allow... this is the best tuning aid as you can gain loads of on-power stability, thus allowing you to be on throttle earlier while taming the off-power turn-in... more caster also gives high speed stability....

as for droop, its based on feel... when you rest the car down, the center should sag abit... loosen preload if the car feels too rear washy... its by feel adn just make sure that you do not loosen so much that your chassis scrubs too much on the floor....
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Old 11-06-2009, 09:47 AM   #278
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hey where are you getting your kits from ? 3 racing is out of stock !
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Old 11-06-2009, 09:50 AM   #279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alana07 View Post
has any one tried fitting a normal tamiya f103 body set onto the f109...such as sauber c12 or f310b body sets? heard that the f109's chassis is too wide at the rear section to fit the tamiya body sets?



look at my's on page 18. the car run good with the old sytle body.
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Old 11-06-2009, 09:58 AM   #280
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I was using the original tires was spinning also.

Quote:
Originally Posted by katze View Post
the main culprit here is really ur tires... i used 38fr and 25rr and its already too twitchy...

a stiffer spring actually plants the rear for F1s as it "pushes" the rear down...actually, i am waiting for the option springs to come... the side roll springs are too soft thus causing too much side roll... i compensate with heavier damper oil for now but the eventual soln will be to change the springs too....

for the caster, i push the top of the arm as far back as the servo horn will allow... this is the best tuning aid as you can gain loads of on-power stability, thus allowing you to be on throttle earlier while taming the off-power turn-in... more caster also gives high speed stability....

as for droop, its based on feel... when you rest the car down, the center should sag abit... loosen preload if the car feels too rear washy... its by feel adn just make sure that you do not loosen so much that your chassis scrubs too much on the floor....
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Old 11-06-2009, 10:03 AM   #281
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Originally Posted by SuperEk4 View Post
I was using the original tires was spinning also.
hmm.... thats weird...

stiffen everything up... use heavier oils... try again....
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Old 11-06-2009, 10:25 AM   #282
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What weight u recommend?
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Old 11-07-2009, 10:31 AM   #283
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l to suffer with the f1-09 spinning out at the back during a recent meeting,
the way l went about getting a better balance was,
change the motor from hpi 27 to silver can = more speed
gear ratio from 30/98 to 23/98 = better acceleration,drives the back down
rear wing, cut the back edges off the wing,dont use the tube spacers and fix the wing directly onto the brace = more downforce on the rear axle
front wing, using a knife and dremil l have removed the top 1/3 off the wing.the gap between front tyre and the back edge of the wing is 25mm
centre pivot roll damper oil 45wt
main shocker, 35wt oil
kit rear tyres with additive and zen 38 front tyres no additive
front hubs, l have replaced the front hub pin with a 3x30 mm cap head and locknut,suspension arms now dips. this slows the response time of the suspension takes the edge off the steering , 3 racing hubs
3 racing caster, mount pushed back
1 degree camber front tyres
1mm wheel spacer =wider front track
this set up is for high grip surface, carpet

hope this helps Nick
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Old 11-07-2009, 10:42 AM   #284
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Finally ready to do some testing with my F1-09. Mounting of the electronics was very easy with all that space on the big chassis plate and the well thought out design.
Thank you all for sharing your set up advices - that really helps a lot!



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Old 11-07-2009, 10:57 AM   #285
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Had a first race with my F1-09 on foam tires. No traction compound allowed. Was not bad but others were faster. Did try ZEN 30shore rear tires with F1-09 fronts and wow -2.5s per lap (15.5 second laps)

Great race with almost 60 minutes of race time. Finished 2nd.
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