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Old 12-17-2012, 05:27 PM   #1876
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Originally Posted by WhiteLX View Post
I'll either have to find some standoffs from another vehicle that will fit, or I will have to order some from McMaster-Carr. Not a big deal, but I was hoping form some nicer shaped anodized versions, not the industrial hex standoffs like I would get from McMaster.


On another note, I am going to be buying my first LiPo batteries. I'll be running a silver can for a bit, but eventually switching to 21.5 BL. Any suggestions on what I should be looking for as far as MAH and C rating? More important, shorty 2S or full size 2S pack?
Personally I wouldn't bother unless you really need that bling factor as the car doesn't lack performance with the standard ones... I am keeping pace with the various f104's (after market chassis and original) that I race against.

Personally I use the IP 4400 shorty packs in mine as it gives me another tuning option but you can use either long or short... for silver can or 21.5 you can get away with using slightly lower number packs. Even running 17.5 I can get good results using a 3200/20C but bigger is always better in this game... but as already mentioned make sure you have a charger than can charge lipo's... and make sure you have a lipo sack...
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Old 12-17-2012, 05:36 PM   #1877
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I ended up with a couple Gens Ace 5000 40c full size lipos and a thunder AC680 charger. I'll revisit shorty packs when I get a little more experience and switch to brushless. Now I just need to pull the car apart and rebuild/replace/upgrade a few small things.

Anyone using the HiTec HS-77BB servo? I'd prefer a low profile servo to the standard size Exi servo that's currently in it, but I don't want to spend a ton on a Futaba servo.

Speaking of steering, how helpful is dual rate steering on these cars?
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Old 12-17-2012, 06:48 PM   #1878
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I ended up with a couple Gens Ace 5000 40c full size lipos and a thunder AC680 charger. I'll revisit shorty packs when I get a little more experience and switch to brushless. Now I just need to pull the car apart and rebuild/replace/upgrade a few small things.

Anyone using the HiTec HS-77BB servo? I'd prefer a low profile servo to the standard size Exi servo that's currently in it, but I don't want to spend a ton on a Futaba servo.

Speaking of steering, how helpful is dual rate steering on these cars?
Don't rush into making any major upgrades without trying the car on the track first as the basic car is actually very good. The main mods people do is replace the front castor adjuster with either the alloy one, which works very well, or go back to non adjustable Tamiya front end... and some go for a side spring mod either the CRC mod (which you will find by searching the thread) or I've done one that uses Associated springs from the 12R5

I use a Savox SC-1251MG and they are a very good servo, cheap and almost as fast as a Futaba.

Personally I use dual rate a lot as it can help tune the car in on a particular day without making changes to the car itself... sometimes backing the rate off a bit can make quite a difference
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Old 12-17-2012, 07:08 PM   #1879
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I had planned on changing out the tie rods for titanium versions since I also want to replace the ball studs and rod ends. The car was purchased secondhand so a lot of it is just maintenance items I would like to address. It already has the 3racing front adjuster and the out tuned diff. I was going to perform the CRC spring mod, lengthen the rear links, and install 3.5mm offset steering knuckles. I also want to get a set of the Tamiya low friction suspension balls for the new suspension arms that came with the car. Small, low cost upgrades that I am hoping will make it a little easier to drive.
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Old 12-18-2012, 02:31 AM   #1880
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I had planned on changing out the tie rods for titanium versions since I also want to replace the ball studs and rod ends. The car was purchased secondhand so a lot of it is just maintenance items I would like to address. It already has the 3racing front adjuster and the out tuned diff. I was going to perform the CRC spring mod, lengthen the rear links, and install 3.5mm offset steering knuckles. I also want to get a set of the Tamiya low friction suspension balls for the new suspension arms that came with the car. Small, low cost upgrades that I am hoping will make it a little easier to drive.
The offset knuckles and the spring mod definitely help.. but the biggest factor is always tyres... depending on the surface and grip level I've found I have to alternate between Ride and TRG... though others get Shizimu's to work

Have fun
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Old 12-21-2012, 10:45 AM   #1881
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Originally Posted by WhiteLX View Post
I had planned on changing out the tie rods for titanium versions since I also want to replace the ball studs and rod ends. The car was purchased secondhand so a lot of it is just maintenance items I would like to address. It already has the 3racing front adjuster and the out tuned diff. I was going to perform the CRC spring mod, lengthen the rear links, and install 3.5mm offset steering knuckles. I also want to get a set of the Tamiya low friction suspension balls for the new suspension arms that came with the car. Small, low cost upgrades that I am hoping will make it a little easier to drive.
Small incremental changes help. The F109 is good out of the box, and a few small changes will get it even better

Side spring mod helps. I went for AE side springs rather than CRC.

Rather than low friction balls I'd polished the front suspension pin to free up the movement. The alloy front suspension balls benefit from smoothing the inside holes out as well.

I prefer 12th springs for the front, and use Touring Car springs on the centre shock.

Rear links I've not changed. Same for steering knuckles. Or front suspension arms.

Still running kit diff, but with the adapter ring to run pan car 64dp spur gears.

Awesome car to race. Mine was perfect for our summer series tarmac rounds this year.
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Old 01-03-2013, 05:00 PM   #1882
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Hi all just wanted to know if 325 is a good price for a rtr 3racing f109? It doesn't have the best electronics but it all fairly new it has the hobbyparts stuff like a turnigy 120 esc, Tacon 5.5 turn 6100 kv sensored brushless motor, 2s turnigy 65 burst 6000 hardcase lipo, flysky radio, imex charger, tamiya upgrades, some aluminum parts, spare parts very clean car. So what do you think guys for 325.?? I added all this up and it comes to over 450. New. Thanks all
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Old 01-04-2013, 04:18 AM   #1883
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Hi all just wanted to know if 325 is a good price for a rtr 3racing f109? It doesn't have the best electronics but it all fairly new it has the hobbyparts stuff like a turnigy 120 esc, Tacon 5.5 turn 6100 kv sensored brushless motor, 2s turnigy 65 burst 6000 hardcase lipo, flysky radio, imex charger, tamiya upgrades, some aluminum parts, spare parts very clean car. So what do you think guys for 325.?? I added all this up and it comes to over 450. New. Thanks all
IMO the motor is basically useless but if your maths is correct seems like an ok deal to me
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Old 02-28-2013, 11:09 AM   #1884
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Does anyone have a good starting setup for a bumpy asphalt track for the F109?
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Old 03-01-2013, 07:24 PM   #1885
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Does anyone have a good starting setup for a bumpy asphalt track for the F109?
Its hard to be specific without knowing a heap more about it, but getting the right tyres will be 90% of getting it right. A lot of guys swear by Pits (search the tread for the different part numbers), while personally I tend to alternate between Ride or TRG depending on the grip level. If you are using foams again it's just a case of getting the right balance - I'd start with a soft rear and a hard front, with a med front available if I needed more front grip.

After that I'd focus on ride height and bump control. I'd probably start around a 6mm ride height with maybe 1-1.5mm droop on the rear and similar ride height at the front, maybe 0.5mm lower. Also use something like Tamiya AW grease or similar on the front pins to help damp the front springs. I use a Tamiya Flouro Yellow spring on the pitch shock with about 50Wt oil, but that would only be a starting point. The roll damper has 60Wt oil.

After that its about tuning the car to suit you.
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Old 04-27-2013, 08:49 AM   #1886
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Does anyone have a good starting setup for a bumpy asphalt track for the F109?
Get the tyres and additive right and you are most of the way there. The 3 Racing kit F109 foams were awesome, but couldn't get supply when I raced last year. Moved over to Xceed foams after that - hard front, and I think soft rears. Worked really well.

I used a mix of thin + thick additives, and cling film (sarin wrap in the US). Get the tyres in any sunshine and they will get good and sticky.

The rest of my set up will be posted earlier. As little front caster as you can, and the side spring mode with 12R5 blue (or closest CRC equivalents). Kit oils in centre and side shocks.

What I loved about racing the F109 on tarmac is it copes with a bit of sliding around really well. We had a few slippery and damp tracks last year, and the F109 was perfect for those conditions.

Works well on bumpier tracks too
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Old 05-04-2013, 01:07 PM   #1887
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Hi,

Has anybody had any luck with mounting a cooling fan to the motor on their F-109 and if so what brand and any pictures would be helpful.

Thanks, Mike
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Old 10-10-2013, 10:58 AM   #1888
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I tried searching, because I know I have seen it before, but I wasn't able to find it (there's way too many results to sift through.) Does anyone have a link to a parts list to convert a 109 to the narrow 104 spec?

Thanks.
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Old 10-11-2013, 02:09 PM   #1889
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I tried searching, because I know I have seen it before, but I wasn't able to find it (there's way too many results to sift through.) Does anyone have a link to a parts list to convert a 109 to the narrow 104 spec?

Thanks.
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Old 11-02-2013, 11:47 AM   #1890
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Here´s a little movie on my F1-09 with Tamiya F104 front suspension, Tamiya F104 sidespring mod, Speedpassion body and some worn Tamiya rubbertires. Running HW Extremestock (blinky) and a Tekin Redline 21,5.... This is my first time out with the "F104" setup.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sn_T685bxvE
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