mcdogboy

iTrader: (2)

How hot is too hot for a Tamiya Sport Tuned?

rccardr

iTrader: (8)

Anything over 180F.

SlideMasteR

same rules would apply as any other brushed motors, once the smoke escapes you need to get a new one ! lol ok same as a silver can Johnson no more than 85 deg c otherwise it starts damaging the comm and weakening the magnets

JR007

That's wayyyy too high. My brushed motors are set up to the 2 second touch test. 85C would give you 1st degree burns!

niznai

Actually I think the brushes will go first when overheating. The glue used to hold together the conductive paste whatever that is (graphite/copper/silver etc) is not heatproof and the brushes will start looking burned (they turn a silvery shade at the comm end) a fair bit before the motor is toast. The comm will score quite badly too. On personal experience 30 minutes continuous racing (one enduro session) will finish the motor at normal gearing. By normal gearing I mean with the same gearing the motor would last a fair few races @ 5 minute each (a lot more than 6 races).

My personal rule is hot to the touch but not enough to burn you if you hold your finger on it for 10 seconds right off the track. I guess that would be less than 60 degrees. This way my sports tuned last about 5-6 sessions (2 heats + 2 mains each session) before they start losing performance.

stitchy

iTrader: (13)

Anyone know what FDR to start out with for a TC?

rccardr

iTrader: (8)

Sure. Shoot me an e-mail at [email protected] and we'll take this offline rather than hijacking the thread.

mcdogboy

iTrader: (2)

Actually keen to hear your ideas on a gearing range for black cam too.

Hijack away

jrxs-r

iTrader: (11)

I run the Sports Tuned motors to about 80C in competitions, but they only last about 2 runs with good speed... the 3rd run is a bit dicey. For club meets, drop a couple of teeth off the pinion, and should be good for at least 6-8 races. The ESC also has a lot to do with how quickly you cook a black can. I used an old Futaba MC-330 and my motors used to last about 5-6 races with the competition gearing, and since switching to an LRP Q2, speed/acceleration has picked up, but at the expense of motor life.

I gear mine to around 6.0:1 to 5.6:1 in competitions on a small basketball sized court with the longest straight about the length of the court and a technical infield. (carpet/rubber)

Just watch the brushes... and as soon as they go silver/gray as NIZNAI has mentioned, get ready to change it out. Don't forget to lube the bushes too!

Good thing to ensure that the car has as little friction as possible so that the motor lives as long as possible.


hope this helps.

niznai

Mine's at 6.6 - 6.3

rccardr

iTrader: (8)

Out of the box, 6.5 FDR and then temp check at 2 minutes: 180F or over, go down a tooth, 160 or under, go up a tooth. For Red Dot enhanced black cans (5 volt rpm around 18,750) I start at 7.25, then do the temp check thing. Every motor is a little bit different, but those are very solid ballpark numbers.

mcdogboy

iTrader: (2)

thanks guys

niznai

That's a good procedure. I would not vouch for one ratio or another, but I do suggest you put the car on the track take two laps as if racing and check the temperature. From experience I think two minutes is enough to burn it if the ratio is off.

TfnG

iTrader: (27)

anyone have this much info on silver cans? Just got a f104 and will be running the silvers....no idea where to start, what temps they like, etc