PaPeRo

Thank you! I just ordered one.

I've read up to page 14 of this thread and I gotta say I'm really hyped for this car. Looks like it has already proven itself by beating the competition and at such a low price too.

Does anyone know if this car's drivetrain could handle a 5900kV brushless motor? Is it pretty durable?

skiptomylou6

iTrader: (5)

I used the HPI NSX, being a Honda guy myself chose it over the other popular RCGT body the MRS. The NSX to me was stable and had a good amount of steering for what I needed. Everybody else likes the MRS for it's known to be very solid and stable. I'd say to give the HPI NSX a shot.

skiptomylou6

iTrader: (5)

It'll handle it. Just make sure after you first get the mesh and tighten the motor-mount down, you hold up the car and give it some throttle for a minute and go back and re-torque your motor mount bolts. The JL's mount screws love to go loose.

PaPeRo

Ok thanks.

Anyway for those of you who want to use 190mm bodies have you tried using 24mm wheels and tires instead of the standard 26mm? What you'll need are thin 3mm hexes + 24mm wheels/tires. This is what I plan on doing to run a 190mm body. For now I won't be doing any competitive racing with it so the lower grip won't be a problem.

skiptomylou6

iTrader: (5)

I run my JL in sedan classes 80% off the time, and I use either RP30s or 36Rs with a 190mm LTC and it still sticks out.

If you're just running club races, I'm sure they wouldn't care if you ran a 195mm car just run a 200mm Mazda6... which is what I've succumbed to. Atleast all the wheels fit inside the wheel wells .

Caveklan

First of I would like to thank all the people of this thread for the great advice / info helping me with my first time race setup, Thank you. This is what I have put together and just would like some feedback, suggestions or other options. Also is the 22t pinion a good starting point for the stock 82t spur gear?
Ofna 1/10 JL-10 GT Sedan Kit
Novak Havoc Pro/Ballistic Brushless System 17.5T/2200kV
Protoform Dodge Stratus 3.1 Clear Body For 200mm
Tactic TTX240 2.4GHz 2-Channel Pistol Tx Rx No Servos
Futaba S3004 Standard Ball Bearing Servo
Integy Super Motor Heat Sink/Cooling Fan Gun
Associated Racing Pinion Gear 48P 22T

Class info:
Sportsman 17.5 brushless
Motor: ROAR approved Stock (17.5) brushless
Tires: Rubber
Body: 4 door Sedan type body, we don't require ROAR approved bodies but recommend you take a look at their list. Wings can not be higher than the roof (measured when mounted on car).
Chassis: 10th scale 4wd belt or shaft
Speed Control: Any, as long as the advanced timing and/or dynamic-timing options (also known as boost and turbo in some speed controls) are turned off.
Batteries: 5000mh/40C or less hard-cased 7.4 V. Lipo battery, or any 6 cell battery. The intention is to revise this restriction every winter based upon the previous seasons common battery
Race Length: 6 min quals and mains

Track info:
fantasyworldracing.home.att.net (just some vids of the track layout)

Also I have decided to go with a Marine Recon theme, “ Swift, Silent and Deadly “ I’ll post some pics when done.

Old Tech

iTrader: (3)

Most racing slicks are 24mm, so for racing purposes that would be considered standard. I believe thinner hexes were tried, but the wheel ends up rubbing on the bearing carriers/uprights on the inside of the wheel. Pretty sure that getting this chassis down to 190 is not very viable, outside of some fairly extensive modification. That said, if you do come up with something, I'd be interested is what you figure out.

marvin2.5s

I'd say ofna should come up with a 190mm conversion kit. Like associated did with the TC3 making the TC3c a 200mm car with the conversion. just a thought.

skiptomylou6

iTrader: (5)

Sadly, I'd say OFNA is far too focused on their successful off-road programs right now with 1/8 E buggy and 1/10 4WD SC. I think their JL projects are at the very very bottom of the list...

But what do I know... I'm just sponsored by them

Ah well... I'm still kind of anxious to TRY and kick some $200-$500 touring car ass in the next RCGT series

proJecTmayhem64

I picked up a Novak Ballistic 17.5 and Havoc 3s for my JL today! Im going to be running on a smaller carpet track and was wondering what gearing/pitch would be a good starting point? Thanks

PaPeRo

Well well well...look what the FedEx dude dropped off today.





Wow this chassis is beautiful and complete bearings wheels/tires for such a low price! After seeing this in the flesh I gotta ask myself...why in the world would anybody buy a TT-01E? It just makes no sense at all. I'm not trying to bash Tamiyas here, I own 4 of them. Did I mention that I am a very happy camper right now?

Anyway just want to give a big THANK YOU to all of those involved in bringing this very affordable and high performance chassis to market!

This is my very first OFNA btw and likely won't be my last.

1101

buy a TT01 so you can spend another $200 on Tamiya's 'hop-ups'
ie: bearings, metal drive shafts, steering upgrades, metal centre shaft, cvd's
and still end up with a sloppy,obselete mess
Not as if that a new car needs metal bearing's. Its only 2010..
(My used TA05 was same price as a used TT01)

The Ofna looks really nice, pity they dont sell them down my way.

PaPeRo

Tried to install my brushless motor to the mount and couldn't find any 3x8mm cone screws. I can't believe Ofna did not include any motor screws in the kit. I have some spare button head hex screws but they don't fit into the concave screw holes. Not a big deal but I would've expected to have some screws to mount the motor...sigh. I guess now would be a good time to order some titanium screws.

EDIT: Found the motor screws inside the bag with the antenna tube.

Anyway looking more closely at the chassis I could see some things that could be improved. First thing I noticed was how close the steering ackerman is to the prop shaft cup. I think it might even slightly rub when the prop shaft is spinning.

Another thing that looks like it should be changed is the two battery hold downs which are secured by screws? This is a huge oversight IMO. Why didn't they just add nipples + snap pin to where the screws go in? It's really a PITA to swap batteries with this chassis. Another option would be to just use a simple one sided hinged battery cover plate that swivels straight up.

Finally the spur gear looks like it doesn't spin true as if the plastic material itself is warped?

bside

iTrader: (1)

Hi guys, thinking of getting a JL-10e to race indoor carpet.

This will be my first 1/10 TC and I'll be running in Mod class with a Novak GT7 ESC and likely a 10T brushed motor (no stock class at my local track so not looking to win races but just keep up...racing stops for the summer in June so BL will come next year...).

Are there any essential upgrades recommended? Can anyone recommend some spare parts to keep on-hand?

Thanks!

marvin2.5s

Bside, I recommend you buy extra front and rear arms as well as the hub carriers, just incase since on all onroad cars you ought to buy spares like these parts are the first to break. "papero" mine came with motor screws but, i later replaced them with my tc4 chassis screws due to the fact that the jl10s screws are phillips and not allens like i'm used to. Also put locking washers on the motor mount screws to keep the cars motor mount from coming loose, sometimes they come loose if you dont tighten it every so often.