mickrcarver

iTrader: (101)

on my 009 with 17.5 ballistic timed at 0 ,I was running a 94 spur and a 41 pinion our track is pretty good size ,I was told I was'nt even geared close to what I needed to be ,novak can you chime in here and tell me if I was geared wrong? heres our track size below at link


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBaaD0XfVxQ

DENNIS STORTI

iTrader: (42)

Steve I sent you an email

Steve Weiss

Dennis,

Thanks! I will get a response to you tomorrow when I get to work!

If anyone else is having problems or has application questions about their new Ballistic motors please feel free to email me at [email protected] and I will do my best to get you a quick answer!

mickrcarver

iTrader: (101)

Steve, any answers on my post above?

Ron Goetter

iTrader: (17)

Your an animal Steve.....

wyd

iTrader: (51)

I ran my 17.5 at factory set timing from Novak. I ran 5.11 overall on a track 100x47 with high traction and tight with only one long straightaway. Temp on the black part of the can around 160 and the center of the car that isn't made of the heat sink material it is about 10 to 12 degrees hotter.

I use the Tekin RS at this time so I know gearing really varies with speedos and settings on the speedo.

Kitchen

The first time I tried to run my motor, it cogged when sitting still, but if you pushed the car and then throttled it, it ran smooth. I changed the sensor wire that night and ran it all day at Jackson with no further problems with temp's around 150-160...

it's like EGGO waffle circa 1920's
EGGO syrup 1990's
a $100 brushless motor 1994
a removable $5 wire 2009...
I'm glad they didn't take that long to catch on!

DENNIS STORTI

iTrader: (42)

Yeah mine was different it didnt stutter on the low end it only studder on the highend after boost kiccked in i tried to change all the possible settings and the sensor wire with no luck after that i switched to a tekin and a duo with no problems and i ran the originla sensor wire cause i like the shorter one so i think i just got one with a bad sensor i assume it happens just sucks i wanted to run that motor to see how it performed i needed some horsepower to catch scooby


Damn Scooby I thought we had the same stuff LOL!

Kitchen

I don't know if you seen or remember, but i'm the guy that launched my car 20' off the midfield rumble strip....twice ....I had the same studder after the light's were turned on!...remedy...a "glitch buster" wow! didn't have that problem again.

Steve Weiss

Hey Guys,

Just got in and started ripping through my emails but I figured I would check back in here first... so if you get duplicate responses at some point ...or you want more detail please email me your questions because it's much easier to keep up that way then follow the thread sometimes!

Gearing is highly dependant on what ESC you are running. Our gearing recommendations given are to be used with our GTB (which does not feature timing boost like the LRPs, Tekins, etc offer)

That being said, your gearing sounds to be about right for what we recommend with our ESC. If you're running something else you will need to gear down quite a bit... probably down in to the mid 4's at least depending on the ESC and your settings.

One thing about the sensor wires... you might want to double check that it is pushed in ALL the way before you run it. When they do the final test here they don't seem to push the harness in all the way because if the harness actually is bad, it is more difficult for them to remove it that way.

Since this is seeming to becoming a problem I am going to see about changing our procedures a little bit.

Hi Dennis,

It's possible that you got a bad sensor wire, but like I mentioned above I would ensure that it's fully seated into the endbell (it should push in quite a bit) Also, some ESC's timing boost work differently than others... The stutter you see might just be because the motor is running at an RPM that is right near one of the ESC's trip points.

There are a few things you can do to try to remedy this:

1.) Lower your gearing... this will allow the motor to spool up to RPM faster under less load than with a taller gearing.

2.) increase your motor's static timing slight... maybe 1/2 of a notch. This will also allow the motor to spool, up to higher RPM which be all you need to get the RPM up to a point where the timing software in your ESC fully kick in.

I know the Duo motors are preset with more static motor timing than our ESCs...so this may be part of the reason why it reaches higher RPM and you do not see the problems that you did with the Ballistic.

A little gearing/timing adjustment will probably get you back on track!

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

The Novak sensor wires are my favorite. I still kinda wished they used black plugs and black wires, but whatever shrink you use on them is far better than anybody else's solution.

DENNIS STORTI

iTrader: (42)

Well thanks to the Novak crew they were very helpful, They resolved my problem today. Now i just can't wait to try this motor

ICBeloitRacer

iTrader: (7)

Can you replace the windings on any of the ballistic motors with the new spec ones? I'm another off-road crossover, but I'm probably in the same boat as a lot of other guys who might change motors. I run a T4 on carpet 6 months out of the year, and I use a much hotter motor for carpet than I do for dirt. Does anyone know if it's possible to switch a single ballistic motor assembly from, say, 6.5 to 10.5 turns? Or can the race motors not use the spec components and vice versa?

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Nice. It really is a nice motor. I think once you try it you will like it.

kn7671

iTrader: (16)

''

They are all interchangeable with any other Ballistic wind. For example, if you have a Ballistic 6.5, you can now just purchase a 10.5, 13.5, 17.5, or 21.5 wind and swap it out. The rotors from the lowest to highest wind motor is the same too.