Ask Todd Hodge..aka "Hodgimoto"
12-26-2004, 11:09 PM
#1411
Re: the 7th 8th and 9th
Originally posted by AARON YOUNG
Are you and Mark coming up for the race ....trouble is all lined up..::
Are you and Mark coming up for the race ....trouble is all lined up..::
12-27-2004, 12:18 AM
#1412
Tech Fanatic
Re: the 7th 8th and 9th
Originally posted by AARON YOUNG
Are you and Mark coming up for the race ....trouble is all lined up..::
Are you and Mark coming up for the race ....trouble is all lined up..::
12-27-2004, 02:32 AM
#1413
Tech Adept
them sounds like fightin words... itll be fun to watch after i finish my rookie main...
12-27-2004, 09:01 AM
#1414
Tech Regular
imjonah,
It's actually very simple. The "low buck" speed controllers offer less adjustment usually to counteract driving styles. The driving profiles mentioned on the other ESCs help compensate for a trigger finger that likes to drive wide open. Also throttle adjustments on a radio can only go so far. Usually you can't "adjust" the throttle to respond as smoothly as you want/need. The ESCs now can do that. The GT7, GTX, KO, LRP QC2, Cirrus, all have those adjustments.
A lot of the lower end ESC also can't handle Low turn modifieds. Some only go to 16 Turn. Most of the high end have 7 turn or no turn limit to them. Those also can usually handle more cells (6-10).
The weight and internal resistance are the big difference. This is more for racing where people are trying to get as much power and run time they can to be faster. The lower the weight the lighter the car. The lower Internal Resistance = better efficiency and longer run times. IR (Internal Resistance) is what robs batteries of their power. Wires and connectors all have resistance. The more resistance current has to fight, the more current is used up before it gets to your motor. If you are racing, look at these numbers. The lower the better. An ESC with reverse will always have more IR than a forward only ESC. The manufacturers websites have this info. Also several magazines have compairison reviews. R/C Car Action had one in the Feb 2005 issue for reversing ones. They also had one for forward only ones in the March 2004 issue. It is missing the Novak GTX though.
The Feb '05 issue does have a review of the GTX and the Mtronics Cirrus is reviewed in the Jan '05 issue. I do have those issues by the way, so I could quote specs if needed.
As far as stock racing goes, it may be hard to tell a difference simply because you are dealing with small weights and IR numbers. Speed in stock is all about setup, gearing, how light your car is, and how efficient your ESC and motor and drivetrain are. You may not notice it unless you are timing yourself. You may happen to cross the finish line just under the time and get to run one more lap than you would normally, just because your battery has the little bit of power left when it usually goes flat. Efficiency may also let you go up or down a pinion size to enable you to run faster and still be ok on time. In Modified class, you can usually tell a bigger difference simply because the motors are faster, and people don't necessarily run the same thing. Sometimes. I've seen one guy find out how to run a less powerful motor and win when all others are using motors that are one turn lower. I figure it is not only about driving but it is also more about how efficient his motor, battery and ESC are.
Hope that helps.
It's actually very simple. The "low buck" speed controllers offer less adjustment usually to counteract driving styles. The driving profiles mentioned on the other ESCs help compensate for a trigger finger that likes to drive wide open. Also throttle adjustments on a radio can only go so far. Usually you can't "adjust" the throttle to respond as smoothly as you want/need. The ESCs now can do that. The GT7, GTX, KO, LRP QC2, Cirrus, all have those adjustments.
A lot of the lower end ESC also can't handle Low turn modifieds. Some only go to 16 Turn. Most of the high end have 7 turn or no turn limit to them. Those also can usually handle more cells (6-10).
The weight and internal resistance are the big difference. This is more for racing where people are trying to get as much power and run time they can to be faster. The lower the weight the lighter the car. The lower Internal Resistance = better efficiency and longer run times. IR (Internal Resistance) is what robs batteries of their power. Wires and connectors all have resistance. The more resistance current has to fight, the more current is used up before it gets to your motor. If you are racing, look at these numbers. The lower the better. An ESC with reverse will always have more IR than a forward only ESC. The manufacturers websites have this info. Also several magazines have compairison reviews. R/C Car Action had one in the Feb 2005 issue for reversing ones. They also had one for forward only ones in the March 2004 issue. It is missing the Novak GTX though.
The Feb '05 issue does have a review of the GTX and the Mtronics Cirrus is reviewed in the Jan '05 issue. I do have those issues by the way, so I could quote specs if needed.
As far as stock racing goes, it may be hard to tell a difference simply because you are dealing with small weights and IR numbers. Speed in stock is all about setup, gearing, how light your car is, and how efficient your ESC and motor and drivetrain are. You may not notice it unless you are timing yourself. You may happen to cross the finish line just under the time and get to run one more lap than you would normally, just because your battery has the little bit of power left when it usually goes flat. Efficiency may also let you go up or down a pinion size to enable you to run faster and still be ok on time. In Modified class, you can usually tell a bigger difference simply because the motors are faster, and people don't necessarily run the same thing. Sometimes. I've seen one guy find out how to run a less powerful motor and win when all others are using motors that are one turn lower. I figure it is not only about driving but it is also more about how efficient his motor, battery and ESC are.
Hope that helps.
Last edited by wcoyote; 12-27-2004 at 09:28 AM.
12-27-2004, 06:23 PM
#1415
Thanks wcoyote,
Thanks for the thoughful informative answer and it did help me understand a little bit more. I think I will research some of the more expensive ESCs.
I just wish sometimes someone would test and put real numerical numbers on the claimed differnces in products.
If two cars enter a short straight away side by side both drivers pull the throttle all the way back, at the end of the staright away the cars are still side by side then you swap out x (battery, motor,esc) and repeat the experiment is one car going to be
a)1 inch, b)1 foot, c)10 feet ahead. When someone uses a phrase like 'more punch' Are they refering to a,b or c. Who knows, because we hardly ever see hard numbers.
If by punch they mean acceleration than that can be tested.
I has a measure feet per second per second.
I just wish sometimes someone would test and put real numerical numbers on the claimed differnces in products.
If two cars enter a short straight away side by side both drivers pull the throttle all the way back, at the end of the staright away the cars are still side by side then you swap out x (battery, motor,esc) and repeat the experiment is one car going to be
a)1 inch, b)1 foot, c)10 feet ahead. When someone uses a phrase like 'more punch' Are they refering to a,b or c. Who knows, because we hardly ever see hard numbers.
If by punch they mean acceleration than that can be tested.
I has a measure feet per second per second.
12-30-2004, 04:36 PM
#1416
Aaron-No I will not be making it up for that race. Going to the Novak Race and then off to the DHI Cup in Denmark.
imjonah-Personally I would only run a LRP Q2 Esc. After testing a lot of ESC's out I feel that is the best. It has very simple programming to adjust from a smooth throttle to a high punch profile. As if you need it.....yes for racing. For playing around....no. You get what you pay for!
imjonah-Personally I would only run a LRP Q2 Esc. After testing a lot of ESC's out I feel that is the best. It has very simple programming to adjust from a smooth throttle to a high punch profile. As if you need it.....yes for racing. For playing around....no. You get what you pay for!
12-31-2004, 05:05 AM
#1420
Tech Regular
Hi Todd, which settings do you normally use on the Q2?
Bye and happy new year!
Bye and happy new year!
12-31-2004, 11:59 AM
#1421
Spotted in a Strongbad email. Is this a cameo appearance?
12-31-2004, 01:37 PM
#1422
Team Losi Street Weapon
Hi Todd.
I own a losi street weapon and have just bought a xxxs to race instead.
Although i do love the street weapon i couldn't resist buying another losi.
I was just wondering if losi ever made a conversion kit to turn the street weapon into an xx4 and have you any idea of the part number of such a kit?
That way i can use the car for backyard bashing instead of retiring her to the shelf!
Thought you probably would be the best person to ask!
Thanks!
jay (losi_g+)
I own a losi street weapon and have just bought a xxxs to race instead.
Although i do love the street weapon i couldn't resist buying another losi.
I was just wondering if losi ever made a conversion kit to turn the street weapon into an xx4 and have you any idea of the part number of such a kit?
That way i can use the car for backyard bashing instead of retiring her to the shelf!
Thought you probably would be the best person to ask!
Thanks!
jay (losi_g+)
12-31-2004, 01:49 PM
#1423
HI Hogde,
I'll perhaps drop by and say a quick hello at DHI Cup in a couple of weeks.
Talk to ya later
Jan Larsen
Denmark
I'll perhaps drop by and say a quick hello at DHI Cup in a couple of weeks.
Talk to ya later
Jan Larsen
Denmark
12-31-2004, 03:04 PM
#1424
Tech Regular
imjonah,
No prob! Glad to help out. As far as punch is concerned, it's otherwise known as off the line accelleration. As far as compairing brand x to brand y ESC, it can be harder to do if you are saying which will make you faster. Weight and overall IR of your wires, connectors, may have more of a factor in speed, but will effect your run times. Sometimes speed isn't everything when you race. If you can't make the end of the race, you can have all the power in the world and you won't win.
Batteries also effect this more than anything. Average voltage of the cells can mean a better battery. 1.71 volts vs 1.61 volts. The 1.71 will provide you more power throughout the whole run time.
As long as you keep your motor and its brushes in good shape, have a good battery with high voltage numbers that can last the time you need, and keep your connections clean (if you solder them). Or if you use good connectors with low IR numbers (most also have an Internal Resistance number just like the ESCs do), you are doing the best you can when it comes to your electronics.
No prob! Glad to help out. As far as punch is concerned, it's otherwise known as off the line accelleration. As far as compairing brand x to brand y ESC, it can be harder to do if you are saying which will make you faster. Weight and overall IR of your wires, connectors, may have more of a factor in speed, but will effect your run times. Sometimes speed isn't everything when you race. If you can't make the end of the race, you can have all the power in the world and you won't win.
Batteries also effect this more than anything. Average voltage of the cells can mean a better battery. 1.71 volts vs 1.61 volts. The 1.71 will provide you more power throughout the whole run time.
As long as you keep your motor and its brushes in good shape, have a good battery with high voltage numbers that can last the time you need, and keep your connections clean (if you solder them). Or if you use good connectors with low IR numbers (most also have an Internal Resistance number just like the ESCs do), you are doing the best you can when it comes to your electronics.
01-03-2005, 08:46 PM
#1425
Jon-No mo Novak....I really feel Blue is Better!!
stlnst-No I have not...I have heard really good things about that.
fastfreddy 74- 3,3,0 for foam tire racing. 2,2,0 for oneway rubber asphalt racing.
losi g+-Sorry TL has never made a conversion kit. That is a lot of parts to convert over. You would be better off finding one used.
Jan-Cool....CYA there!
stlnst-No I have not...I have heard really good things about that.
fastfreddy 74- 3,3,0 for foam tire racing. 2,2,0 for oneway rubber asphalt racing.
losi g+-Sorry TL has never made a conversion kit. That is a lot of parts to convert over. You would be better off finding one used.
Jan-Cool....CYA there!