Originally Posted by ioxqq
heretic: You're right. that is what I concern too. So when I measure the balance I remove all 4 shocks and use something like a stick instead of the stock. Just make sure the Front and rear, R and L sticks has the same length that makes the car do not have any weight transfer due compress of the spring. +- 20 grams L and R is fine. You just never can get it prefect. Of course add the balance weight accordingly.
I also tried the "rigid shock" also, but it is a bit boring. Either I would use a turnbuckle and adjust " ride height" with a droop gauge, or I would just preload the springs at the maximum, and then set ride height with the droop screws. But that second method is not satisfying because the chassis gets tweaked by the pressure applied by the droop screw.
Also with the turnbuckle I feel that the load applied on each wheel is not "natural", I feel that it is not distributed realistically on the 4 tires like springs would. But I may very weel be wrong, of course. For instance if you use this method, it would be extremely easy to have the car standing on 3 wheels just because of a 0.1mm error in your ride height measurement. With springs used, this tiny and negligible error is compensated , erased and you can have realistic weight on each wheel, within the 20g-margin you mention.
In fact I got the best results with : newly rebuilt shocks ( same rebound, etc), as-close-as-possible springs, and setup wheels mounted because they have that big O ring that makes the wheel touch the scale on one exact point, and not a larger area like tires ( even new) would.
sorry for my poor english, I hope that makes sense.