lipo with brushed motors???
06-26-2009, 03:49 PM
#17
brushless consume less, i got a 5.5t brushless and a 27t brushed, and i run a 1800mah battery that is not a lipo and i get about 4 min more running a 5.5t brushless then i do the 27t brushed
06-29-2009, 12:26 AM
#18
If you want to run lipo batteries with an older speed control that does not have lipo cut-off, you can use a lipo cut-off module. Here is a link to the modules that Novak sells (http://www.teamnovak.com/products/li...ule/index.html). This 2S Novak module retails for $25 on Tower Hobbies.
An example where this type of module can come in handy is Tamiya Championship Series classes like the Mini-Coopers. Why buy a high end speed control with lipo cut-off to power a silver can motor? Lipo batteries are legal in the Mini-Cooper class, so you might as well get some more life out of a perfectly good small brushed speed control.
An example where this type of module can come in handy is Tamiya Championship Series classes like the Mini-Coopers. Why buy a high end speed control with lipo cut-off to power a silver can motor? Lipo batteries are legal in the Mini-Cooper class, so you might as well get some more life out of a perfectly good small brushed speed control.
06-29-2009, 12:32 PM
#20
A good 27T race motor will be around 45-60% effeciency. A brushless motor of simialr output will be in the high 90's... 
The hightest effeciency brushed motor I've personally seen (and I haven't seen that many) is the Tamiya/Mabuchi RX540-VZ Technigold. It was quite an amazing motor way back when. They stated it's peak effeciency was 81% at 19k rpm w/ 7.2v.
The hightest effeciency brushed motor I've personally seen (and I haven't seen that many) is the Tamiya/Mabuchi RX540-VZ Technigold. It was quite an amazing motor way back when. They stated it's peak effeciency was 81% at 19k rpm w/ 7.2v.
09-14-2012, 05:23 PM
#21
Tech Rookie
sorry to post on old thead but if running lipos with brushed motors what should ur temp is it going to be hotter than with nimh
09-14-2012, 09:19 PM
#22
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (4)
Whoa--Zombie thread. Meh, it's Friday night, so I'll give it a quick reply.
Since I actually run a brushed silvercan 540 in F1, and was running a 27T single in FWD, I would say that after toasting two motors so far this year, I would keep temps under 200 deg. F.
At around 200 deg. F, a few things I noticed have happened depending on how robust your motor is: The brushes get that purple hue, they are pretty much toast-replace them. When the commutator gets that purple color, it's 50/50 whether skimming a bit off the surface will ever bring the motor back. When the motor shaft turns purple, you are too hot and you have pretty much toasted the motor, including possibly damaging the magnets..
Since I actually run a brushed silvercan 540 in F1, and was running a 27T single in FWD, I would say that after toasting two motors so far this year, I would keep temps under 200 deg. F.
At around 200 deg. F, a few things I noticed have happened depending on how robust your motor is: The brushes get that purple hue, they are pretty much toast-replace them. When the commutator gets that purple color, it's 50/50 whether skimming a bit off the surface will ever bring the motor back. When the motor shaft turns purple, you are too hot and you have pretty much toasted the motor, including possibly damaging the magnets..
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