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Old 02-11-2014, 07:02 AM   #661
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Yep I ordered the week before... doh!

Anyway, here are some measurements on the thickness of the treads:

RIDE Belted Mini 54/27S #3027: 3.5mm thick


OFNA JL12e #70063: 2.0mm thick


*** I seriously doubt that the belt on the RIDE tire is 1.5mm thick, it definitely feels like thicker rubber... now I just have to hope that the RIDE tire performs nearly as well as the JL12e tire... also looking forward to seeing how your TP Tires do to!

Both sets of foams between OFNA and RIDE are comparable in firmness, however the RIDE foams are 4mm wider which will provide a little more support on the sidewalls:

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Old 02-11-2014, 10:13 AM   #662
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Since the TP Tires are premounted, I wonder if weight could be used to estimate how much rubber might be included on the TP tire? Has anyone ever weighed a TP wheel by itself unmounted?

Here are some measurements with a stock JL12e wheel, along with the JL12e tire on the top right and RIDE tire on the top left... not surprised to see the RIDE weight about 3.6g more since it's belted and has thicker tread.


Also notice how the RIDE tire is more full looking and well supported on the widewalls where the OFNA tire is flat and more squared off... I think foam inserts may also play a small factor in performance and tire wear too, I've already seen some difference with some USGT foams that I've been experimenting with already.

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Old 02-15-2014, 08:24 AM   #663
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Originally Posted by Rodarbal View Post
Not sure what you mean by more realistic, Bill. I like five spoke wheels, in fact I've got five spoke wheels on my real car. Those TP wheels are reminiscent of Ronal Pentas or Work Ewings, IMO.

http://www.speedhunters.com/wp-conte...0/AY0F1258.jpg

Good point... I guess I'm more of an 8 spoke kinda guy myself, I'm thinking of trying for a look something like this here with my my next car:
http://www.speedhunters.com/wp-conte...1-1200x800.jpg

****

Oh and my VM2 arrived earlier this week too

The quoted RTR weight for the chassis is 1200g which is right on par with my NRX-12, however my ABC Genetic is coming in at a portly 1300g. Does anyone have any min weight restrictions for these cars at the classes their area?
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Old 02-15-2014, 08:36 PM   #664
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Good point... I guess I'm more of an 8 spoke kinda guy myself, I'm thinking of trying for a look something like this here with my my next car:
http://www.speedhunters.com/wp-conte...1-1200x800.jpg

****

Oh and my VM2 arrived earlier this week too

The quoted RTR weight for the chassis is 1200g which is right on par with my NRX-12, however my ABC Genetic is coming in at a portly 1300g. Does anyone have any min weight restrictions for these cars at the classes their area?
No min weight. Just roar 21.5t, blinky esc and realistic body.
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Old 02-15-2014, 10:27 PM   #665
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
Good point... I guess I'm more of an 8 spoke kinda guy myself, I'm thinking of trying for a look something like this here with my my next car:
http://www.speedhunters.com/wp-conte...1-1200x800.jpg
Then you should consider yourself a Panasport fan. Those are Enkei Compe wheels on the Orange Bang Z. Like Konig Rewinds, VTO Classic 8s and Rota RBs, they're more or less copies of the design Panasport turned into a piece of racing history. BTW, I have a couple sets Panasport-like wheels with ABC and Tamiya tires mounted on them.
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Old 02-18-2014, 04:39 PM   #666
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Has anyone noticed the rear gear diff being particularly tight? I built mine with 100wt shock oil, which should yield a pretty free diff. But it's really tight! I figured the plastic(!) spider/drive gears may be tight and need some breaking in. Well, I've run the car at partial throttle while holding one rear wheel for about 5 minutes or so now. It still feels super tight.

With the car in the air if I rotate one rear tire, it spins all four...obviously including the motor! I'd be happy to put lighter weight oil in there, but something tells me there might be some sort of interference.

The diff feels smooth, no binding, no notchiness. It's just super tight. Kind of feels like my Xray T4 if it had maybe 10000 oil in it or something.

Any suggestions? Let it continue to break in? I got a bad diff? Looking for some input here, fellas. Thanks!
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Old 02-18-2014, 05:12 PM   #667
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did your instructions come with a green insert too?

mine said to "polish" the gears... not sure what that means but I hit them with shoe polish... no idea if that did any good but my motor just came in the mail today so I might get to play with diff as early as tomorrow.
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Old 02-18-2014, 05:22 PM   #668
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
did your instructions come with a green insert too?

mine said to "polish" the gears... not sure what that means but I hit them with shoe polish... no idea if that did any good but my motor just came in the mail today so I might get to play with diff as early as tomorrow.
Yeah, IIRC, the backs of the spider gears (or was it the drive gears?) had some flashing on them. I just sanded them down with an emery board. Maybe I need to sand it down some more?

If I have time I may remove it and rebuild it before the weekend. I really don't think it would run well in its current state!
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Old 02-18-2014, 08:11 PM   #669
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You need to take apart your diff to find out what's wrong. You should not be able to turn all for wheels with just one rear wheel and with 100 wt. oil. Are you positive you feel no binding or even notchiness when you turn the out drives in opposite directions? Try this with the diff out of the car (not with wheels). Is there only one shim on each of the large internal gears? Are the diff case halves lined up with the marks together? Did you grease the out drive shafts and orings?

'Polishing' in the instructions removes flashing and allows you to adjust the internal gears backlash to remove notchiness and tightness. I used 1000 grit wet dry sandpaper. Don't go too far though.

You should start with 1000 wt. oil to start. 100 wt. shock oil is too thin.
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Old 02-18-2014, 08:47 PM   #670
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Well, I can tell you I feel no binding or notchiness whatsoever. It's consistent, but very tight. I don't recall the number of shims on the large drive gears, but I recall installing only one. Maybe there were multiples stacked together? But I know the case is lined up correctly and I did grease the output shafts and o-rings. I think the emery board I used has a coarseness of around 1000 or so (it's pretty fine), but I will disassemble it and inspect everything more closely.

1000wt won't make the car too twitchy on corner exit?
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Old 02-18-2014, 08:59 PM   #671
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1000wt. oil will be OK. If the oil is too thin the inside rear wheel will unload in a turn. The car has a spool in the front also.
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Old 02-18-2014, 09:06 PM   #672
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Originally Posted by Sydewynder View Post
1000wt. oil will be OK. If the oil is too thin the inside rear wheel will unload in a turn. The car has a spool in the front also.
Well, I know it has a spool in front. But I'm concerned with the rear being too "locked" with such heavy oil in it. I usually run much lower in my on road cars.
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Old 02-18-2014, 09:34 PM   #673
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Well, I know it has a spool in front. But I'm concerned with the rear being too "locked" with such heavy oil in it. I usually run much lower in my on road cars.
You can try 100wt. if you want if that works for you but most if not all minis where I am are using min. 1000wt. diff oil. Oil is easy enough to change.
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Old 02-18-2014, 10:45 PM   #674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
did your instructions come with a green insert too?

mine said to "polish" the gears... not sure what that means but I hit them with shoe polish... no idea if that did any good but my motor just came in the mail today so I might get to play with diff as early as tomorrow.
That's pretty funny.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy R View Post
Yeah, IIRC, the backs of the spider gears (or was it the drive gears?) had some flashing on them. I just sanded them down with an emery board. Maybe I need to sand it down some more?

If I have time I may remove it and rebuild it before the weekend. I really don't think it would run well in its current state!
Yes you have to start from scratch. Take everything apart and make sure each piece moves free. The outdrives in each side before assembly must move freely. All the gears need to be sanded on the back side almost flat. You can see a impression from the mold process on the back side of gears. Sand down like mentioned with 1000 to 1200 wet sandpaper and a drop of water in circle motions. Assemble dry to test.
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Old 02-19-2014, 07:32 AM   #675
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I've got 1000w diff fluid in mine, just mounted a couple tires and yes, it feels a little heavier than I prefer too, but certainly not super tight... I would imagine the diff loosening up after a couple practice runs... maybe the shoe polish did the trick??? LOL

I always thought that 1000w diff fluid = 80w shock fluid?

I wonder if 100w shock fluid is too thick?

I'm thinking of 60w or maybe even 30w shock fluid might be best?


*** EDIT, here's the reference chart I recall seeing a while back for the CPS conversion:
http://www.rcfiles.com/forums/showth...diff+oil+chart


Last edited by billdelong; 02-19-2014 at 09:16 AM.
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