Atomic VM2 M-Class Chassis
#376
Tech Elite
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Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
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#378
Anyone with the lipo version confirm it all the screw holes line up with the previous chassis?
#380
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#381
#382
Tech Addict
paging manny
What xray parts did you use on the atomic vm2?
#383
Body posts, diffs?? lol, not sure what else...
#384
Tech Legend
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,220
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I will be at MRH on Sat. Greg is looking at a Sakura Xi but might buy a new TC6.1. He is looking to have everything to race by end of September.
#385
Tech Addict
question on atomic vm2 lipo
what are most people running in the car solid front axle or are the putting a ball diff and the rear are they using the stock gear diff or putting in a ball diff as well
#386
For those lucky ones who have a VM2 lipo. How is the new car? Any setups you can post that works well for outdoor prepared tracks? One more favor for those with the older VM2. Can you post any setups for outdoor track. Thanks looking forward for any pictures of their VM2.
#387
Norcal Hobbies right?
Running older VM2. Car out of the box has way too much oversteer. However, got it to the point where it handles great in the morning and late afternoon. It seems to become difficult to drive in middle of the day when the track temp is highest. (Even when trying out Team Powers mini tires)
Solaris Hard Premount Mini tires all around. Stock shocks/springs. Front stock springs are really stiff. Even with 40WT front/35WT rear. More of an issue at FPR, as the front will bounce thru the turns on bumpy tracks.
Hardest swaybar front, softest swaybar rear. F/R ride height at 5mm.
-1 Camber all around. 0 toe front. -2.5 rear toe.
Spool front. Rear Spec-R gear diff with 1000WT oil.
Cirtix motor 76T 64P spur. 40T pinion. May drop down two teeth on pinion since the new track setup no longer has the long sweeper at the end of the straight.
I'm not a great driver but when the track temps cool down, it really comes alive and I bet it would have no problem keeping up with the fastest Genetic. Perhaps in the fall, I'll have better luck with the car.
Running older VM2. Car out of the box has way too much oversteer. However, got it to the point where it handles great in the morning and late afternoon. It seems to become difficult to drive in middle of the day when the track temp is highest. (Even when trying out Team Powers mini tires)
Solaris Hard Premount Mini tires all around. Stock shocks/springs. Front stock springs are really stiff. Even with 40WT front/35WT rear. More of an issue at FPR, as the front will bounce thru the turns on bumpy tracks.
Hardest swaybar front, softest swaybar rear. F/R ride height at 5mm.
-1 Camber all around. 0 toe front. -2.5 rear toe.
Spool front. Rear Spec-R gear diff with 1000WT oil.
Cirtix motor 76T 64P spur. 40T pinion. May drop down two teeth on pinion since the new track setup no longer has the long sweeper at the end of the straight.
I'm not a great driver but when the track temps cool down, it really comes alive and I bet it would have no problem keeping up with the fastest Genetic. Perhaps in the fall, I'll have better luck with the car.
#388
I bought a used VM2. I'm waiting for the mailman to deliver it. Its suppose to have front and rear gear diff. Can I pack the front diff with 200k and would it somewhat act like a spool? Dan, thanks for the setup tips.
Any input on the Lipo chassis version?
Any input on the Lipo chassis version?
#389
Norcal Hobbies right?
Running older VM2. Car out of the box has way too much oversteer. However, got it to the point where it handles great in the morning and late afternoon. It seems to become difficult to drive in middle of the day when the track temp is highest. (Even when trying out Team Powers mini tires)
Solaris Hard Premount Mini tires all around. Stock shocks/springs. Front stock springs are really stiff. Even with 40WT front/35WT rear. More of an issue at FPR, as the front will bounce thru the turns on bumpy tracks.
Hardest swaybar front, softest swaybar rear. F/R ride height at 5mm.
-1 Camber all around. 0 toe front. -2.5 rear toe.
Spool front. Rear Spec-R gear diff with 1000WT oil.
Cirtix motor 76T 64P spur. 40T pinion. May drop down two teeth on pinion since the new track setup no longer has the long sweeper at the end of the straight.
I'm not a great driver but when the track temps cool down, it really comes alive and I bet it would have no problem keeping up with the fastest Genetic. Perhaps in the fall, I'll have better luck with the car.
Running older VM2. Car out of the box has way too much oversteer. However, got it to the point where it handles great in the morning and late afternoon. It seems to become difficult to drive in middle of the day when the track temp is highest. (Even when trying out Team Powers mini tires)
Solaris Hard Premount Mini tires all around. Stock shocks/springs. Front stock springs are really stiff. Even with 40WT front/35WT rear. More of an issue at FPR, as the front will bounce thru the turns on bumpy tracks.
Hardest swaybar front, softest swaybar rear. F/R ride height at 5mm.
-1 Camber all around. 0 toe front. -2.5 rear toe.
Spool front. Rear Spec-R gear diff with 1000WT oil.
Cirtix motor 76T 64P spur. 40T pinion. May drop down two teeth on pinion since the new track setup no longer has the long sweeper at the end of the straight.
I'm not a great driver but when the track temps cool down, it really comes alive and I bet it would have no problem keeping up with the fastest Genetic. Perhaps in the fall, I'll have better luck with the car.
#390
Packing the front diff is another option. Might even work better, but I have not ordered a new gear diff to try that out. I want to get the lipo version but not in a rush. Thinner main chassis should help grip a bit more and reduce scrub in high speed corners.
Running a Tamiya Honda S800 body. Not the best body for racing but just staying realistic for the class. Its beatup now. I have a spare Swift body and ABC 240Z that needs painting. I'm most likely racing at Norcal this Sunday. Look for the silver S800 body with the red stripes.
Running a Tamiya Honda S800 body. Not the best body for racing but just staying realistic for the class. Its beatup now. I have a spare Swift body and ABC 240Z that needs painting. I'm most likely racing at Norcal this Sunday. Look for the silver S800 body with the red stripes.