What does everyone think is the best overall car for TA .
Free, lonely, leftover, forgotten, dusty, outdated, discontinued, string-drive, lead fiber chassis, no-droop-screw having, non-adjustable roll centers, and optional nerf wing mounting holes are all great features for a VTA car.
Considering how slow VTA cars are, I doubt if handling is a big factor between the many chassis being used in this class. However, some chassis have gear limitations which can hamper their usefullness around certain FDRs.
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Unless you feel that you have a need to upgrade, (for me the tc3 can be a bit unforgiving with wishbones/hubs) stay with what you have.
But if you do consider upgrading, I've had a tamiya ta05 thats seen 2 or 3 seasons of racing and i've not broken anything on it, durable isnt the word! You need a very heavy impact to break anything, all ive broken is the plastic inner toe blocks and bent a hinge pin.
Upgrade to the blue trf ones, and you are good to go.
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They say you can use just about anything. I wouldnt upgrade from the TC3. Unless you just want to spend some money. I use a Yokomo SD which is almost as old as the TC3. It serves the purpose and you can still get parts for it.
I have heard that the direct drive Corally Asassins just kill it in this class. But they have been really hard to find. They also tend to stay up in value.
many around here run older xrays, the FK05 runs really well, and is durable. My son runs one, and he hasn't broken anything. Many pop up here on RC/Tech and often come with many spares, which are rarely needed, and are not too expensive.
The VTA class at our track has really moved up the "you need gear to compete" chart lately, but the car choice seems to have less of an impact than driving and electronics/battery...
For example, our A-Main last night was a bunch of different cars of different ages :
XRay '008
Two Losi Type-R's
Team Magic E4
Kawada SV-10
Tamiya TA05
plus one that I don't know what was under the bonnet. I can say that there is a definite lack of shaft driven cars at our track in any category though.
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clint, I'd just upgrade some parts on the tc3 and run it. I'd get a parma bumper to help save w/ the front end part damage. upgrade the shocks to vsc2 kits w/ the bladders...seem more consistent for me....even w/ yok caps I still had some air in the shocks..the bladders get it all gone.
make sure you're drive train is free as possible...it's worth the time to clean & ensure all the bearing are good N free and the transmission cases/diffs are shimmed right for maxium free'ness.
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Free, lonely, leftover, forgotten, dusty, outdated, discontinued, string-drive, lead fiber chassis, no-droop-screw having, non-adjustable roll centers, and optional nerf wing mounting holes are all great features for a VTA car.
Considering how slow VTA cars are, I doubt if handling is a big factor between the many chassis being used in this class. However, some chassis have gear limitations which can hamper their usefullness around certain FDRs.
The mods should delete every other post on this thread and keep yours. And stickie it. And close it.
How many more times will this question be asked
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Death will find you.
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clint, I'd just upgrade some parts on the tc3 and run it. I'd get a parma bumper to help save w/ the front end part damage. upgrade the shocks to vsc2 kits w/ the bladders...seem more consistent for me....even w/ yok caps I still had some air in the shocks..the bladders get it all gone.
make sure you're drive train is free as possible...it's worth the time to clean & ensure all the bearing are good N free and the transmission cases/diffs are shimmed right for maxium free'ness.
ditto...my tc3 is still my best car for vta....the tc5 is getting there but even if i didnt have it..my tc3 would be my go to car...at our club level..the 3 will get better with a little setup and driving...
also if you are looking to get another car, cause you have a Jr TA'er..than let him/her have the tc3 and upgrade to a tc5...thats what I did..and with most of the guys going in that direction parts are there...cya Friday
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