Originally Posted by Dragonfire
Should provide better balance
I would think a 19t should be quicker than a 13.5 but the 19t will require more work to make it fast. You will have to test back to back to work that out for your self but I would suggest that a 13.5 will make a really good practice motor at the very least. On a tight track like the one in the pic I think the torque of the 13.5 might be quicker in the tight stuff.
BTW: I hardly ever race on carpet but when I do I go for a oneway. There is no comparison to anything else on carpet.
I don't think a one way would be good for this track, I think it is to tight. I could be wrong though, I always used them on sweepeing tracks. What would putting a one way up front do?
Originally Posted by MikeXray
I would try running no sway bars, and running 35-40wt in your rear shocks.
Why drop the rear oil down so much? To increase the rear traction to compensate for the sway bar being removed up front? It might give me to much if I have the rear sway bar off and go lighter. Or should I lighten it up all the way around?
Originally Posted by Cpt.America
When you accelerate, and your car squats (leans to the rear) you are losing traction up front... which is why you are pushing, on throttle. "anti-squat" will help your car by restricting how much weight is shifted to the rear, when you hit the gas, therfore increasing steering when you are on the throttle. Anti-squat increases front traction on throttle.
Did you check out the link I provided you up above? It's got everything you will want to know.
Here... ill copy and paste it for you:
More anti-squat generally makes the rear of the car more sensitive to throttle input. The car has more steering while braking, and also a little more powering out of corners. On high-traction tracks, it may feel as if the car momentarily has more rear traction accellerating out of corners. off-power. A lot of anti-squat (4° or more) can make the car spin out in turns, and make the rear end break loose when accellerating. "
It also might help you a bit to losen up yoru front. Try a slightly softer spring combined with slightly lighter oil. This will add a bit of roll to your front end, helping your outside front tire bite more going around the corner. You could also try running only a rear anti-sway bar... which will also help shift traction to the front end. (be advised, that the springs/oil/ARB will also shift traction to the front end everywhere else on the track too).
Yea, I have the link and I like alot of it, I just have to print it the next time im in class. I have the Hudy Guide printed and that is why I didn't think of it. According to Hudy More Anti-Squat will do the following
- Less weight Transfer to the rear of the chassis on-throttle
- Chassis compresses or drops less on-throttle
- Decreased steering responce
- Increased rear traction
- Better on a smooth track
Kind of threw me off because it says less weight transfer to the back and chassis drops less on-throttle. That made me think it would free it up some, but then it said increased rear traction. So I was all confused on it lol.
What would raising my roll center in the rear do? It would let me transfer left to right quicker wouldnt it?
I have an 18lb front spring on there now and the next one down is a 16lb, I could do 16lb with like 50 up front.
I can also lower my diffs which would give me alot more traction to play with, but I don't think I need that. If I run my front diff lower than the rear I think I would have way to much oversteer.
Edit: What size shims should I add to up the Anit-Squat, is there a mm to Degree conversion or something :/