JoshM20

iTrader: (7)

Hey Guys,
I've been wanting to ask some questions and about my TC and all I see are threads about certain cars. So I thought I would start one where I could just ask about general handling/setup and weight transfer questions. I.E. If I lower my CG will it do this, or My car has mid corner on power push, what would you first try to solve the problem.

I also wanted to talked to you guys about what you think are Important Maintenance and car setup must haves that alot of people over look and more importantly under estimate.

I think A big one is weight balance, it took me many of years to relise the importance of this. When I was on asphalt it never felt "tweaked" but as soon as I would hit Carpet the headache began.


Well anyway, here is my problem and I would like some suggestions on what you would do to help the car rotate.

I've been running on a very, VERY, tight carpet track, we run Foam and Rubber. I have not had much time to setup the car but I'm in the general ball park.

My problem is that I've got a on power push mid/exit of the corner. No when I let off and go off power it will dive in hard, but that is not the fast way around the track, [For me atleast] The car is wanting to be driven very hard to hold the line and if you blow one corner your done. [Makes it hard when you come up on lap traffic]... Right now the car is incredibly consistant, but not fast. I need more rotation around the corners, I'm running an old Schumacher Mi2EC, and here is my current settup.

Wheelbase = Front - Medium Long ~ Rear - Long
Rear Hubs = Split - Spacer in front and behind hub
Diffs = Ball Diffs front and rear, Diffs Raised from chassis
Sway Bars= Front and rear Sway bars Stock silver ones
Camber links= Ball stud top hole on Tower = Lower CG, Front and Rear
Rear hub Camber hole= Ball stud on inside, closest to the tower
Rear Toe = Negative 1 Degree
Front Toe = Slightly Toe out
Front and Rear Camber -2 Degrees
Droop = 5,4 5 Front, 4 Rear
Ride Height = 5 All around

Tires
Front = TRC Plaid
Rear = Corally Purple
Sauce= Complete Width Front and Rear- Set for about 10 mins, then burned off with a rug.

I'm looking for these in another brand since TRC is gone. Does anyone know what Tire/Shore combo is equal or closest to these?

When I went Purple all around the front Tires Glazed over and I had way to much Oversteer. Plaid/Purple feels really good.
Suspention
Oil = 60 wt all around(Trinity)
Piston = Stock (2 Hole IIRC)
Spings = Green All around ( went From Blue Rear to Green and Helped free the car up, felt much better)
Schumacher Spring rates are as follows,
White = 14 Lbs
Blue = 16 Lbs
Green = 18 LBS
Red = 20 Lbs
Yellow = 23 Lbs
Violet = 27 Lbs

Shock posistion

Front Middle hold on Tower, Outside hold on arm[ Tower has 3 holes, Arm has 2]
Rear = 2nd hold in from outside on tower, 2 hold in from outside on arm [Each have 4 holes]

I'm running Lipo and 19T.

I think that is Everything guys, let me know If I forgot something. I was think that I should shorten the wheel base more or raise the RC [ Roll Center] in the rear, I could go with a softer front spring but I think that would be too much of an adjustment.

Josh

JustinLessard

Try some more aggressive tires, plaids/purples haven't been the "hot setup" for quite awhile, go with Parma Indigo/magenta, magenta/magenta or Jaco magenta/magenta

Parma Cyan/purple would be equal to what your currently running

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Everything you would ever want to know about RC car handling:

http://users.telenet.be/elvo/

seaball

iTrader: (9)

compare and contrast. there weren't a ton of foam setups for the 'ec', but these were both good, and were run with front tires on the car. both of these setups were very balanced on/off power.

you can learn a ton by comparing what others are doing on the same car....

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

Only you would describe your "sauce" as "wet to the ring" and "full wet" lol

JoshM20

iTrader: (7)

I'm not a huge fan of the 'ec' but I'm making due.

Interesting setup for the indoor champs.

So in that setup he was using a 3mm chassis, but had no diff riser. Would that keep the CG the same as my 2mm chassis with the 1mm riser?

I may order a pair of the Parma or Jaco to test them out.

I think I will try shortening the wheelbase and maybe adding a little anti-dive.

Now I have the option to run 19T or 13.5 in the class, which is going to be quicker?

Edit: Also Where can I get some of those weight balancing tools that look like there half a golf ball with a screw on them?

adamge

iTrader: (1)

What size is your track?

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Since you are losing steering on-power, you would be better off adding anti-squat.

JoshM20

iTrader: (7)

A Fast Lap is 12.9 The fastest I pulled with the Current setup is 13.2 and that was with the car to stuck. It would not rotate enough.

Here is a pick, the back infield is REALLY Tight. Much more than the pic shows.




I think I may put a stiffer rear sway bar or maybe drop the front oil down to 50. Just a thought, not sure which way I should go.

I thought Anti-Squat would increase rear traction? How would this effect the car?

Josh

JoshM20

iTrader: (7)

I'm wondering if I should lower my diffs, it would effect my overall CG. But I don't think I need anymore traction.

Right now I have my roll center lowered on both shock towers (top holes) I'm wondering if I should lower them, both or just the rear, or at all.

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

+1

Should provide better balance

I would think a 19t should be quicker than a 13.5 but the 19t will require more work to make it fast. You will have to test back to back to work that out for your self but I would suggest that a 13.5 will make a really good practice motor at the very least. On a tight track like the one in the pic I think the torque of the 13.5 might be quicker in the tight stuff.

BTW: I hardly ever race on carpet but when I do I go for a oneway. There is no comparison to anything else on carpet.

niznai

If you're not too sure, perhaps trying a set of better tires on the front it's worth a try before you start playing with other things.

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

I would try running no sway bars, and running 35-40wt in your rear shocks.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

When you accelerate, and your car squats (leans to the rear) you are losing traction up front... which is why you are pushing, on throttle. "anti-squat" will help your car by restricting how much weight is shifted to the rear, when you hit the gas, therfore increasing steering when you are on the throttle. Anti-squat increases front traction on throttle.

Did you check out the link I provided you up above? It's got everything you will want to know.

Here... ill copy and paste it for you:

"Anti-Squat

More anti-squat generally makes the rear of the car more sensitive to throttle input. The car has more steering while braking, and also a little more powering out of corners. On high-traction tracks, it may feel as if the car momentarily has more rear traction accellerating out of corners. off-power. A lot of anti-squat (4° or more) can make the car spin out in turns, and make the rear end break loose when accellerating. "

It also might help you a bit to losen up yoru front. Try a slightly softer spring combined with slightly lighter oil. This will add a bit of roll to your front end, helping your outside front tire bite more going around the corner. You could also try running only a rear anti-sway bar... which will also help shift traction to the front end. (be advised, that the springs/oil/ARB will also shift traction to the front end everywhere else on the track too).

gkn0315

iTrader: (126)

+1 to what he said