Lipo LRP vs Orion
12-21-2008, 02:23 PM
#1
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
Lipo LRP vs Orion
Hello
i want to know which is the best of this two lipos in power.
The LRP 5300 28C or the Orion 3800 30C.
About run time is the LRP.
Thanks in Advance.
Best Regards:
Pedro Silva
i want to know which is the best of this two lipos in power.
The LRP 5300 28C or the Orion 3800 30C.
About run time is the LRP.
Thanks in Advance.
Best Regards:
Pedro Silva
12-22-2008, 12:19 PM
#3
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
hello
Thanks for the reply.
but I wanted a view of how is your performances on the track, because I have a lipo YunTong 5000mha 20C that have more power on track than my other lipo LRP 5000mha of 25c
clear that the LRP is in theory have more power.
But in practice I do not know???
LRP 5300mha VS Orion 3800mha
Best regards:
Pedro Silva
Thanks for the reply.
but I wanted a view of how is your performances on the track, because I have a lipo YunTong 5000mha 20C that have more power on track than my other lipo LRP 5000mha of 25c
clear that the LRP is in theory have more power.
But in practice I do not know???
LRP 5300mha VS Orion 3800mha
Best regards:
Pedro Silva
12-22-2008, 02:17 PM
#4
I think that the only thing that has been definitively shown is that capacity is the most important thing for on-road racing, since the average voltage will be the higher when you use less % of the total capacity. In the other "my 40c battery is better than your 40c battery" threads, the C rating is for *continuous* output. The most power that will be drawn by an electric motor is from a dead stop (0 RPM), and that happens only a few times during a race (right at the start, and maybe if you crash and have to start again). No brushless motor for on-road racing will draw anything remotely close to 40C (200A with a 5000mAh battery) *continuously*. If they did, your 5000mAh pack would be dead in 1.5 minutes. (5 Ah / 200A = 0.025 h, or 1 minute 30 seconds). The burst current ratings for most LiPo batteries is close to 2x the continuous current output rating, so the 40C pack could (in theory) provide 400A for a few seconds.
I've heard the number 75A thrown around at the track as the max current draw for a 17.5 brushless motor (again from a dead stop). Thus, just about any of the batteries you mentioned should be fine. The higher capacity ones might have a few millivolt higher average voltage over the 5 minute race. Unless you are a world class driver, getting the rollout right and driving a clean race (no wrecks or tapping boards) is probably more important than the last few millivolts.
As an example, my Trinity Duo 17.5 uses about 2000mAh out of my SMC 5000 mAh battery in a 5 minute race (sometimes around 1800mAh). Thus, the average amp draw is about 24 Amps, or less than 5C [2Ah / (5/60 h) = 24A].
I've heard the number 75A thrown around at the track as the max current draw for a 17.5 brushless motor (again from a dead stop). Thus, just about any of the batteries you mentioned should be fine. The higher capacity ones might have a few millivolt higher average voltage over the 5 minute race. Unless you are a world class driver, getting the rollout right and driving a clean race (no wrecks or tapping boards) is probably more important than the last few millivolts.
As an example, my Trinity Duo 17.5 uses about 2000mAh out of my SMC 5000 mAh battery in a 5 minute race (sometimes around 1800mAh). Thus, the average amp draw is about 24 Amps, or less than 5C [2Ah / (5/60 h) = 24A].
12-22-2008, 04:03 PM
#5
Tech Apprentice
Is there any advantage to using a lower capacity battery for weight savings? Or does extra leftover voltage prevail over any weight savings from a lighter battery?
12-22-2008, 04:16 PM
#6
Most people have had to add weight to make the minimum weight for TC, so unless your car is heavy to begin with, it doesn't really make sense to go with a smaller capacity LiPo. If you do, however, you can add weight in other places to affect handling in different ways.
To be honest, I didn't really see that much difference in lap times with my Orion 3600, Orion 3800, and SMC 5000 LiPos. I even tried 6 cell NiMH (EnerG 4600s), with basically identical lap times. I saw bigger differences between brands of 17.5 motors, gearing, and adjustable timing on the motor.
To be honest, I didn't really see that much difference in lap times with my Orion 3600, Orion 3800, and SMC 5000 LiPos. I even tried 6 cell NiMH (EnerG 4600s), with basically identical lap times. I saw bigger differences between brands of 17.5 motors, gearing, and adjustable timing on the motor.
12-23-2008, 11:18 AM
#7
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
Hello
Thanks for all replys.
I took my doubts.
Best regards.
Pedro Silva
Thanks for all replys.
I took my doubts.
Best regards.
Pedro Silva
12-23-2008, 09:06 PM
#8
im currently using orions 3200 which weigh 198grams. performance wise im happy with it. but this LRP 5300 has a higher capacity and at the same time it weighs 286 grams. which is a good thing for my car to easily balance the weight from left to right.
anyone here using the LRP 5300? Is it a good buy in terms of quality and performance?
anyone here using the LRP 5300? Is it a good buy in terms of quality and performance?
Last edited by berserk; 12-24-2008 at 08:16 PM.
12-25-2008, 02:03 PM
#10
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
12-25-2008, 04:23 PM
#11
I have been using the LRP 5300 Competition Car Line lipos for a few months now...
Previous to this I was using the Intellect IP3800 25C lipos.
All I can comment on is the LRPs give a HEAP more punch and power than the IPs do for me in my car. For me its really noticeable the differences between those 2 packs. On the weekend I raced the IPs in an F1 and then swapped to the LRPs and boy was there a noticeable difference.
Normally I race modified touring with a low wind brushless. In some conditions the IPs just didnt have the capacity or runtime. The larger C rated higher capacity LRPs are fantastic for this as there is ample overheard of both.
If you're making a choice, the large "C" rating and capacity thats suitable for any class motor that you run (has the runtime for all motors down to 3.5T) of the LRPs just cant be beat IMHO. The LRP packs are every bit as good as the SMC packs that people talk about a lot.
-Mark
Previous to this I was using the Intellect IP3800 25C lipos.
All I can comment on is the LRPs give a HEAP more punch and power than the IPs do for me in my car. For me its really noticeable the differences between those 2 packs. On the weekend I raced the IPs in an F1 and then swapped to the LRPs and boy was there a noticeable difference.
Normally I race modified touring with a low wind brushless. In some conditions the IPs just didnt have the capacity or runtime. The larger C rated higher capacity LRPs are fantastic for this as there is ample overheard of both.
If you're making a choice, the large "C" rating and capacity thats suitable for any class motor that you run (has the runtime for all motors down to 3.5T) of the LRPs just cant be beat IMHO. The LRP packs are every bit as good as the SMC packs that people talk about a lot.
-Mark
12-25-2008, 09:24 PM
#12
Most people have had to add weight to make the minimum weight for TC, so unless your car is heavy to begin with, it doesn't really make sense to go with a smaller capacity LiPo. If you do, however, you can add weight in other places to affect handling in different ways.
To be honest, I didn't really see that much difference in lap times with my Orion 3600, Orion 3800, and SMC 5000 LiPos. I even tried 6 cell NiMH (EnerG 4600s), with basically identical lap times. I saw bigger differences between brands of 17.5 motors, gearing, and adjustable timing on the motor.
To be honest, I didn't really see that much difference in lap times with my Orion 3600, Orion 3800, and SMC 5000 LiPos. I even tried 6 cell NiMH (EnerG 4600s), with basically identical lap times. I saw bigger differences between brands of 17.5 motors, gearing, and adjustable timing on the motor.
What is the best 17.5 on the market? I am getting into 1/12th scale and want the best on the market. I know I will not be able to drive it to its fullest, but there is something about having the fastest that makes me drive ( a little ) better.
Thanks in advance.
05-01-2009, 05:25 PM
#13
I think that the only thing that has been definitively shown is that capacity is the most important thing for on-road racing, since the average voltage will be the higher when you use less % of the total capacity. In the other "my 40c battery is better than your 40c battery" threads, the C rating is for *continuous* output. The most power that will be drawn by an electric motor is from a dead stop (0 RPM), and that happens only a few times during a race (right at the start, and maybe if you crash and have to start again). No brushless motor for on-road racing will draw anything remotely close to 40C (200A with a 5000mAh battery) *continuously*. If they did, your 5000mAh pack would be dead in 1.5 minutes. (5 Ah / 200A = 0.025 h, or 1 minute 30 seconds). The burst current ratings for most LiPo batteries is close to 2x the continuous current output rating, so the 40C pack could (in theory) provide 400A for a few seconds.
I've heard the number 75A thrown around at the track as the max current draw for a 17.5 brushless motor (again from a dead stop). Thus, just about any of the batteries you mentioned should be fine. The higher capacity ones might have a few millivolt higher average voltage over the 5 minute race. Unless you are a world class driver, getting the rollout right and driving a clean race (no wrecks or tapping boards) is probably more important than the last few millivolts.
As an example, my Trinity Duo 17.5 uses about 2000mAh out of my SMC 5000 mAh battery in a 5 minute race (sometimes around 1800mAh). Thus, the average amp draw is about 24 Amps, or less than 5C [2Ah / (5/60 h) = 24A].
I've heard the number 75A thrown around at the track as the max current draw for a 17.5 brushless motor (again from a dead stop). Thus, just about any of the batteries you mentioned should be fine. The higher capacity ones might have a few millivolt higher average voltage over the 5 minute race. Unless you are a world class driver, getting the rollout right and driving a clean race (no wrecks or tapping boards) is probably more important than the last few millivolts.
As an example, my Trinity Duo 17.5 uses about 2000mAh out of my SMC 5000 mAh battery in a 5 minute race (sometimes around 1800mAh). Thus, the average amp draw is about 24 Amps, or less than 5C [2Ah / (5/60 h) = 24A].
That "C" rating thing...
#1. Not all manufacturers use the same system to calculate this.
#2. Most all to 35 or 40 C packs over 5000 will most likely blow your freaky little minds out.
#3. In my world (the way I see it anyways) it's about the punch the battery can give. Kind of like the internal resistance. A higher C rating (especially with the larger capacity packs) compares to the cold cranking amps on a car battery.
#4. Believe it or not, torque from any RPM (Brushless Systems give us that) can "SPIKE" current when you punch it! Even if its only for a few milliseconds can greatly effect the quickness and the power band of your motor.
#5. Averaging amp draw is for all practical purposes the only way to figure out whats going on with the electronics stuff during races.
#6. Voltage equals speed!
#7. "C" rating equals punch!
#8. Having both equals a ballistic car!
#9. I hate it when it all comes down to math...
#10. Over gearing and using throttle control these days means having a car so fast that you really only need to floor it on the straightaway. I mean.. the car is only going to go so fast right ?
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
