tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

It's to allow your fronts to continue spinning even though you applied brakes... So essentially, on-power, you'll have all four wheels spinning, during braking, you will have rear brakes but not the front. It makes it so off-power, it feels like a rear wheel drive vehicle...

As far as I can tell, the chassis, motor mount, pulleys, and new belts... Everything else seems like an TA05, TA05-IFS, TB03, 415/416 parts... Also remember to get the individual hinge blocks. The Version 2 uses two sets of individual hinge blocks with two sets of the 416 hinge blocks... Oh pivot balls too. Can't have enough of those...

gashuffer

iTrader: (48)

Yes they are wider apart but that can be looked at as better stability on the body. Don't be worried about lining up the body because the front mounts give you the positioning, but need to put the body posts on the other side because they bottom out on the turnbuckles. Thats what I needed to do because I was using the 1mm down spring retainers and there was barely enough room to clear with a ride height of 5.5mm rear. All in all definitely get the IFS stay.

tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

What sort of GT bodies can we take advantage of with the IFS/version2 style laydown shock? So far, all I know is the NSX, but there's gotta be other bodies that can take advantage of this low profile right?

Akudou

iTrader: (2)

Thanks. I guess it does help alot but it doesnt help my shells which already have bodypost holes that fits the original body post position. When i say shells, i say around 13 to 14 of my shells. That would means i have to do all of them if i was to adapt the wide body post of the carbon rear damper stay.

Akudou

iTrader: (2)

Saw a few shells which would make good GT bodies with low nose profiles are the Xanavi GT-R35, Corolla Axio and the Lexus SC-430

Akudou

iTrader: (2)

Am running 11.5t Team powers Brushless motor. Anyone tried 11.5t and may i know what FDR you guys are using?

Pingers

iTrader: (8)

My favorite IFS body is #51292 Tamiya EBBRO 350R

Chris Furman

iTrader: (118)

My TA05V2 with Upgrade pack came in yesterday! Woohoo! Noe I need the rest of my parts!

aktug78

[QUOTE=tom_chang79;6848344]It's to allow your fronts to continue spinning even though you applied brakes... So essentially, on-power, you'll have all four wheels spinning, during braking, you will have rear brakes but not the front. It makes it so off-power, it feels like a rear wheel drive vehicle...





Thanks for ur answer, so its suitable for drifting or like a handbrake, isnt it?

slolx50

So does anyone have an opinion about which car would be better, the VerII or IFS-R?

Thanks!

Chris Furman

iTrader: (118)

Any Tamiya is good! It is all about how YOU drive it!

woodys3b

iTrader: (1)

Hi all,

Been lurking here for a while and have read this thread and the old IFS thread. Lots of good info here and you all are very thorough and timely with your answers.

I am racing my V2 on carpet in the stock class. I want to put CVD's on the front. I have the aluminum outdrives on the inside of the of the drive shafts. I mistakenly ordered Tamiya part number (84007) thinking it was the front 46mm CVD's but it is the light weight rear swing shafts. Can they be used on the front? If so, what part number do I need to complete the CVD's? If they cannot be used on the front, what part numbers should I buy for the front CVD's?

Chris Furman

iTrader: (118)

You only run the lightweight in the rear, never in the front. They will get bent in the first few laps.. It'll be like throwing your money out the window.

You need part 51092

<PsOp>

I have a ta05r and want to convert into IFS what parts do I need to get. Where do you guys order your Tamiya hop-ups at?

Chris Furman

iTrader: (118)

1. I did a search, and found it posted 3 times what parts to buy. Search the on-road forum.. IFS conversion

2.

SPEEDTECHRC.COM
AMPDRAW.COM

and.. EBAY!