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Old 11-14-2010, 04:37 AM   #1426
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Another question..

If I get the TRF damper set. What spings work best? or is there a spring set I can get?

And what do you think the best damper oil would be?

I run on a medium size carpet track with 13.5 motor

Thanks.
The TRF damper set is awesome. You will want to use the short touring car springs. I use white springs on the front and yellow on the rear. You should probably uptrade to the aluminum shock rockers. I often change spacers between them and the ball studs which is the same as laying down or standing down the rear shocks. It's easier to do with the aluminum rockers.

I would start with 40-50 wt oil in the front and 30 wt in the back. Use the 3 hole pistons front and rear.
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Old 11-14-2010, 04:40 AM   #1427
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Will this work for the front hub carriers?

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=665&id=7520

It's a 3racing TA05 one.. I don't see a hole for the grub screw though?

If I get these will I need to make a lot of adjustments?
These are a waste of money. They will break the first time you hit something. Stay with the plastic ones as they flex when you hit something and don't break. The carbon ones are stiffer but more brittle. After you get to where you aren't hitting stuff as much, you can upgrade to those.
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Old 11-14-2010, 04:02 PM   #1428
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Is anyone using their Ver. II to run VTA? I'm looking for a good set up.
Thanks
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Old 11-14-2010, 09:35 PM   #1429
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These are a waste of money. They will break the first time you hit something. Stay with the plastic ones as they flex when you hit something and don't break. The carbon ones are stiffer but more brittle. After you get to where you aren't hitting stuff as much, you can upgrade to those.
Thanks again Woody.
I'll avoid the aluminum c-hubs and try to get those TRF and aluminum rocker arms.
got a big order I need to take care of!
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Old 11-15-2010, 04:03 AM   #1430
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Is anyone using their Ver. II to run VTA? I'm looking for a good set up.
Thanks
I do.

The set up isn't really different than what works for rubber touring car. I use blue or white springs on the front depending on traction. Yellow springs on the back. 40wt oil front, 30wt oil in back. Balance the car laterally. Set ride height at 5mm and set your droop at 3mm. You will need about 2 degrees of camber in the back. From here, you can pretty much fine tune the car with droop.

I think the V2 makes a fine VTA platform. Easy to drive and very durable.
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Old 11-15-2010, 04:12 AM   #1431
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These are a waste of money. They will break the first time you hit something. Stay with the plastic ones as they flex when you hit something and don't break. The carbon ones are stiffer but more brittle. After you get to where you aren't hitting stuff as much, you can upgrade to those.
I have used my aluminum c-hubs for two years and had no issue with them, don't buy the yeah racing buy the 3racing or square.
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Old 11-15-2010, 04:32 AM   #1432
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I have used my aluminum c-hubs for two years and had no issue with them, don't buy the yeah racing buy the 3racing or square.
Zak is a novice driver racing in a 13.5 class. I don't care how gifted he is, he is going to hit stuff and he is going to hit it hard. The aluminum parts will bend or break. If you are just running around a parking lot or drifting, these parts are fine but if you are racing, they are a waste of money. I have seen people show up at the track with these parts on their car and after two or three encounters with the wall, they are done. I still have the original C hubs on my car and it was my first RC race car. Been racing it every weekend for about a year now. That's hard to beat. I do recommend the Tamiya carbon knuckles though (the part that holds the bearings that the axles go through) for the front and rear. They hold the king pins and ball studs much better.
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Old 11-15-2010, 09:46 AM   #1433
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Zak is a novice driver racing in a 13.5 class. I don't care how gifted he is, he is going to hit stuff and he is going to hit it hard. The aluminum parts will bend or break. If you are just running around a parking lot or drifting, these parts are fine but if you are racing, they are a waste of money. I have seen people show up at the track with these parts on their car and after two or three encounters with the wall, they are done. I still have the original C hubs on my car and it was my first RC race car. Been racing it every weekend for about a year now. That's hard to beat. I do recommend the Tamiya carbon knuckles though (the part that holds the bearings that the axles go through) for the front and rear. They hold the king pins and ball studs much better.
Nope, not a waste of money for me, actually it was a money saver for me because I've been breaking those C hubs left and right (racing only as I don't drift nor bash) but that's my own opinion and experience.
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Old 11-15-2010, 10:59 AM   #1434
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YGPM
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I do.

The set up isn't really different than what works for rubber touring car. I use blue or white springs on the front depending on traction. Yellow springs on the back. 40wt oil front, 30wt oil in back. Balance the car laterally. Set ride height at 5mm and set your droop at 3mm. You will need about 2 degrees of camber in the back. From here, you can pretty much fine tune the car with droop.

I think the V2 makes a fine VTA platform. Easy to drive and very durable.
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Old 11-15-2010, 07:51 PM   #1435
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Default Tamiya Questions

Hi All, just a general question. I've been out of RC for 3 years, but anxious to get back in with my 8 year old son. We live near the Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo so we're very excited about trying to get back into the scene, as well as trying to participate in some of the TCS races.

I'm planning on getting a TT01 for my son; but I can't overspend or the wife will kill me. Of course I would love to buy him the TT01 Pro but I'll have to buy the body, motor, tires, etc. So the likely scenario is to buy a kit, and get him an inexpensive 2.4 Ghz radio. Any recommendation on an inexpensive speed controller that will work with lipo, and the stock silver can; any recommendations on inexpensive lipo that's TCS approved?

For me, I'm planning on getting the new TAO5 V2 R, I just have to pull the trigger. I did order the Speed Passion Citrix esc/spec motor combo, seems like a great price at $89. I ordered some Turnigy 5200 30C lipos from Hobbyking, hopefully they'll be okay but just realized they're not TCS approved, or are they? I have the list of approved lipo's but they're not listed. I couldn't see why they wouldnt' let me use these since they're not mfg direct batteries.

Well, any recommendations on setup, tires, bodies, batteries, esc, and how to drive ( LOL ) is appreciated.
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Old 11-15-2010, 08:34 PM   #1436
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Originally Posted by woodys3b View Post
Zak is a novice driver racing in a 13.5 class. I don't care how gifted he is, he is going to hit stuff and he is going to hit it hard. The aluminum parts will bend or break. If you are just running around a parking lot or drifting, these parts are fine but if you are racing, they are a waste of money. I have seen people show up at the track with these parts on their car and after two or three encounters with the wall, they are done. I still have the original C hubs on my car and it was my first RC race car. Been racing it every weekend for about a year now. That's hard to beat. I do recommend the Tamiya carbon knuckles though (the part that holds the bearings that the axles go through) for the front and rear. They hold the king pins and ball studs much better.
Yeah, I have been crashing hard even with reduced top speed. I already snapped my right c-hub twice so I wanted to find something that wouldn't brake.
But I'm going to just stock up on plastic ones(I'm thinking 10 should be enough) and a guy at my track suggested I boil it in water for about five minutes.
I'll have a couple pre-built ones so I can easily swap it on the track if one brakes again.
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Old 11-15-2010, 08:51 PM   #1437
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I'm going to get universal dogbones should I get the 44mm or 46mm?

The kit manual says 46 but I know original dogbones are 44mm and all the sites have 44mm..
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Old 11-15-2010, 09:01 PM   #1438
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[QUOTE=Zac_with_no_K;8216050]I'm going to get universal dogbones should I get the 44mm or 46mm?

The kit manual says 46 but I know original dogbones are 44mm and all the sites have 44mm..[/QUOTE

i can't say what you should get, but in my ta05 ver.2 i run the 46mm universals all around and they have been flawless. what ever you do go with steel in the front especially if you plan to run a spool.
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Old 11-15-2010, 09:11 PM   #1439
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[QUOTE=fullout;8216094]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zac_with_no_K View Post
I'm going to get universal dogbones should I get the 44mm or 46mm?

The kit manual says 46 but I know original dogbones are 44mm and all the sites have 44mm..[/QUOTE

i can't say what you should get, but in my ta05 ver.2 i run the 46mm universals all around and they have been flawless. what ever you do go with steel in the front especially if you plan to run a spool.
Thanks. I am running a spool so I will look for 46mm steel.
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Old 11-15-2010, 09:13 PM   #1440
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Questions??

Just wondering if these springs would work with the TRF shocks.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...Ese%3C%2FB%3Et

Because they're cheap I'll probably get the blue red white and yellow if they do work.

Thanks.
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