Originally Posted by shikakae123
What hop up parts must I get if I am playing touring?
Check the local track first, and buy the proper motor and tires before anything else.
0.1, 0.3mm x 3mm shims - for the suspension arm hinge pins. Take out the slop and play as necessary.
Ball bearing steering - either buy two of the bearings, the same size as the single ones that fit in the middle of the diff, and replace them with the bronze bushings. In the long run, it's more cost effective to buy the blue aluminum racing steering set.
Stronger belts - Depending on your FDR, get Aramid belts or the low-fiction or IFS belts. All the TA05 series (except the MS) belts work, but if you use belts other than your version of your car, set the belt tensioner settings right for proper belt run and torsion/ tension.
Kingpins - throw out the kit parts and use TA04 kingpins (Unless they came w/ the kit I guess.)
Shocks - Anything aluminum is better than the plastic dampers that come with the kit.
Aluminum Suspension Bridge Mounts - I am currently trying to write a post on how to use almost any mount as a Bridge mount, and how to properly install it in a TA05 series car, using TRF415 parts and a pair of proper spacers.. My R uses two bridge 1A mounts, and a 1A and 1D outside aluminum mount. I have other TRF415 series suspension mounts, but so far I'm good. I drove myself mad to find out how Japan did it, and now I finally know their secrets.
Stay tuned on that . . .
TA05 series stabilizer bars F/R - get that full set, the track could always change
Tire Traction Compound - for either rubber or foam tires. Paragon seems to work great in my region, so that's what I use as well.
Universal Swing Shafts - i would suggest starting with the 46mm ones for the V2. Get rid of them bones!
Servo Saver - I'm good, but people often replace this (I'm not immediately sure if it comes w/ a high torque servo saver) Kimborough seems to be the solution.
If you're going to use a brushless motor and lipo setup, I would also suggest Team Associated's lead weights, to counter the heavier weight on the motor's side of the car.
Also, if you don't care about brakes, get a one-way front diff. The center one-way makes it 200% more efficient if you've got the bucks. Stray away from spools/ direct coupling unless you're driving in a straight line, making run speed records, and you've had TONS of practice not crashing.