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Old 09-16-2010, 10:25 PM   #1231
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WHat pitch gears you guys running? Was gonna through some 64p in there but was having trouble getting 41p/69s? Tight indoor carpet track. Just got building this thing and dont know much about onroad at all :P
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Old 09-16-2010, 10:46 PM   #1232
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I'm looking for an aluminum suspension mount setup that'll give me about 2.5 degrees of toe in the rear and just a little toe out in the front. Basically just want a solid asphalt setup. The way Tamiya letters/numbers these blocks is a little weird, would appreciate anyone who could help me out.
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Old 09-16-2010, 11:21 PM   #1233
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I'm looking for an aluminum suspension mount setup that'll give me about 2.5 degrees of toe in the rear and just a little toe out in the front. Basically just want a solid asphalt setup. The way Tamiya letters/numbers these blocks is a little weird, would appreciate anyone who could help me out.

consecutive letters give .5 degrees

if you want something similar to the 416x you'd want
C-C in front (or C-B, D-C if you want .5deg inboard toe-out)
X-E in the rear for 2.5deg inboard toe-in
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Old 09-16-2010, 11:42 PM   #1234
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I should have included this question while I was at it...I'm looking at upgrading to the aluminum turnbuckles. According to this product page on Tamiya's site, I can use 3x32's for all turnbuckles in the kit (although it does point out the kit standard of 3x28 for five of the turnbuckles in the kit). I'm wondering if this is true, whether I can just get away with the same size turnbuckle all around? They don't appear to make 3x28 in aluminum.
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Old 09-16-2010, 11:59 PM   #1235
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You may not be able to use some of the shorter camber link positions if you use the 32mm turnbuckles everywhere.
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Old 09-17-2010, 04:04 AM   #1236
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WHat pitch gears you guys running? Was gonna through some 64p in there but was having trouble getting 41p/69s? Tight indoor carpet track. Just got building this thing and dont know much about onroad at all :P
Hey Gyro,

This is the same woody from Michigan RC.net. I think 64p gears are kind of fragile for what we do. I use 48p but not the metric Tamiya stuff. The Tamiya stuff is noisy and limited in sizes. Kimbrough/Associated spur gears bolt right on and I have had real good luck with Losi pinion geaes. I don't race 17.5 so I can't recommend a ratio for our track but I'd start with a 30/70 and go from there. I have lots of gears and will be at the track on Saturday if you want to try some different combos.
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Old 09-17-2010, 04:10 AM   #1237
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You may not be able to use some of the shorter camber link positions if you use the 32mm turnbuckles everywhere.
If you tap the walls once in a while, I would go with titanium. Aluminum doesn't take much of an impact to bend. If you don't have to have Tamiya, Lunsford makes really nice stuff that is less expensive. I also replaced my inner hinge pins with Lunsford Ti pins. They don't make them for the TA-05 but you can find some for a buggy (don't remember which one) that are the same diameter but longer. Just cut them down to length with a dremel cut off wheel. Pretty good weight savings over the steel ones.

Sorry, just saw that I quoted the wrong post. Need more coffee!
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Old 09-17-2010, 01:26 PM   #1238
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Woot woot alright thanks man see saturday
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Old 09-20-2010, 08:35 PM   #1239
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Questions?? Step 9- Attaching rear axles

I don't think I exactly know how to word this that good, but I'll try..

I'm attaching the rear axels but I've come upon a problem. It's as if the dogbones are too long and I don't know what I built wrong to create this. I'm thinking it was something with the rear ball differential.
I took out the half bushing to try to make more space..

What do I do to fix this?

(Sorry, I don't know how to post images

The first picture has flash on so you can see how far out the A10 peice is in the diff. thought it might help

http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/...C/IMG_2057.jpg

http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/...C/IMG_2058.jpg

http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/...C/IMG_2059.jpg

Any advice helps! Thanks!
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Old 09-20-2010, 08:44 PM   #1240
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Looks like too many spacers on the diff outdrives (unless that's the thrust bearing screw not being screwed down all the way). Also maybe too much padding on the axle end, as well. I think maybe one o-ring on either side is all you really need.

I can tell you right now, though, that you're probably going to want to switch to CVD's not long after you get the dogbones in and drive it...especially in front. When you're at full steering throw at high speeds, the dogbones have a nasty tendency to pop out of the wheel axles. Not good!
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Old 09-20-2010, 09:06 PM   #1241
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Looks like too many spacers on the diff outdrives (unless that's the thrust bearing screw not being screwed down all the way). Also maybe too much padding on the axle end, as well. I think maybe one o-ring on either side is all you really need.

I can tell you right now, though, that you're probably going to want to switch to CVD's not long after you get the dogbones in and drive it...especially in front. When you're at full steering throw at high speeds, the dogbones have a nasty tendency to pop out of the wheel axles. Not good!
That is the thrust bearing screw, I was(and still am!) afraid to tighten it that much so I didn't damage the bearing. I didn't add any spacers to the diff.

I only have one O-ring in the axel but I don't know for sure if it's pushed in all the way, but I did try to jam it in there as far as I could.

And those CVD's are sounding really good right now! I was hoping to wait a little longer to upgrade any parts around the diff. I remember I switched to them right away with my old TA05.
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Old 09-21-2010, 03:41 AM   #1242
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Zak,

You assembled the Diff incorrectly. I did the same thing when I built mine. Look at the manual on page 5 step 3. Now look at the arrow that goes from the exploded view on the left to the exploded view on the right. See how the arrow flips over. That's Tamiya's way of telling you to flip the diff over for the next step. Anyway, the bearing and bolt go on the side with the short outdrive. The spring and nut go on the side with the long outdrive. Pull the bolt out and insert it in the other side and everything will fit well.

When I build my diffs, I tighten them until they stop. Don't over tighten. Then back the front one off about half a turn. Back the back one off about 3/4 turn.

Andy
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Old 09-21-2010, 12:21 PM   #1243
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Zak,

You assembled the Diff incorrectly. I did the same thing when I built mine. Look at the manual on page 5 step 3. Now look at the arrow that goes from the exploded view on the left to the exploded view on the right. See how the arrow flips over. That's Tamiya's way of telling you to flip the diff over for the next step. Anyway, the bearing and bolt go on the side with the short outdrive. The spring and nut go on the side with the long outdrive. Pull the bolt out and insert it in the other side and everything will fit well.

When I build my diffs, I tighten them until they stop. Don't over tighten. Then back the front one off about half a turn. Back the back one off about 3/4 turn.

Andy
Thanks again Andy!
I never even noticed how that arrow flipped over. Rebuilt both of them a couple hours ago. It's getting there!
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Old 09-22-2010, 12:57 AM   #1244
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I'm trying to identify a problem with my car wanting to "drift" one way or another under power, with no steering input. The trim is good and it's centered, but when I come onto a straightaway or come out of a turn and straighten out, and give it throttle, it's like someone turned a magnet on at the sides of the track and it wants to drift over toward one side or the other, under power. Any thoughts?
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Old 09-22-2010, 02:58 AM   #1245
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I'm trying to identify a problem with my car wanting to "drift" one way or another under power, with no steering input. The trim is good and it's centered, but when I come onto a straightaway or come out of a turn and straighten out, and give it throttle, it's like someone turned a magnet on at the sides of the track and it wants to drift over toward one side or the other, under power. Any thoughts?
1. Make sure the front diff is a little tighter than the rear.
2. Make sure you have a little bit of toe out in the front. Maybe 1/2 to 1 degree.
3. Make sure your servo and servo saver are centering. If you are using the Tamiya supplied servo saver, even the high torque one, just chuck it now and replace it with a Kimbrough. This is probably the cause.
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