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Old 09-09-2010, 04:51 PM   #1201
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Questions?? 2.5 mm drill bit

I'm having trouble finding a drill bit for the peices that require a 2.5mm hole drilled into them.
What size did you use to drill the 2.5mm hole?

I used this converter chart but the 2.5 designation space is left blank..
http://bobmay.astronomy.net/misc/drillchart.htm

I went to a hardware store and an employee recomended a #41 size (which is smaller than 2.5mm) and we both had no clue what that would be in the fracton form for inches.

but I know 2.5mm = .0984 inches

Thanks
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Old 09-09-2010, 05:04 PM   #1202
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Originally Posted by Zac_with_no_K View Post
Thank you sir!
I'm still going to start with the silver can, I was looking at all the systems that the speedos worked with brushed.
I was watching them race the 13.5 and I know that's way too much for me. I just want the 13.5 motor/speedo combo so I can switch over without needing to spend more money than needed. There's just nowhere that I know of to race(within reasonable travel distance) that has any slower classes than 13.5 around Albuquerque NM.

I will deffinitly keep researching, and look for a 17.5, maybe look for one on ebay so I could move up to that before the 13.5
How about hobbywing?I just ordered one from all the things people have said about them on here being able to hang with tekins for a 3rd of the price.That is if the classes near you have turbo settings allowed then this is a cheap alternative to keep pace.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Hobbywing-XERUN-...item1e5ddee9c1

Heres a duo2 which everyone has great things to say about on this board
http://cgi.ebay.com/EPIC-13-5-Duo-2-...item2eaf81f1b0

Last edited by nikkon; 09-09-2010 at 05:19 PM.
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Old 09-09-2010, 05:19 PM   #1203
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How about xerun?I just ordered one from all the things people have said about them on here being able to hang with tekins for a 3rd of the price.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Hobbywing-XERUN-...item1e5ddee9c1

Heres a duo2 which everyone has great things to say about on this board
http://cgi.ebay.com/EPIC-13-5-Duo-2-...item2eaf81f1b0
Thanks! I will deffinitly look into these!
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Old 09-10-2010, 02:55 AM   #1204
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I was hoping for some thing more like the TA05MS, but with the V2 short suspension and TRF417 lipo chassis.

Perhaps a V2 MS is still in the works.
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Old 09-10-2010, 03:29 AM   #1205
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Arrgh...ordered a F/R sway bar kit from Tamiya for my TA-05 v2 and what I got has ball cup ends that won't work for the car. I look in the manual and it says I need totally different ends than what is provided in the sway bar kit...and I have to actually trim them to fit. Unfortunately, I don't have any of the rod ends it calls for!

So unless I've got something really wrong here, the instructions seem to indicate that I need 2 of the BB27 4mm cups for the mounts on the front suspension arms and 6 of the BB22 for the rest of the ends. Any insight on this would be helpful...
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Old 09-10-2010, 04:04 AM   #1206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zac_with_no_K View Post
I'm having trouble finding a drill bit for the peices that require a 2.5mm hole drilled into them.
What size did you use to drill the 2.5mm hole?

I used this converter chart but the 2.5 designation space is left blank..
http://bobmay.astronomy.net/misc/drillchart.htm

I went to a hardware store and an employee recomended a #41 size (which is smaller than 2.5mm) and we both had no clue what that would be in the fracton form for inches.

but I know 2.5mm = .0984 inches

Thanks
Zac,

If you are talking about drilling the hole for the grub screw in the bottom of the uprights, use a bit that comes closest to the size of the existing hole without being bigger. The grub screws just hold the hing pin in place so don't tighten them too tight. That plastic is soft and it is easy to strip them out.

About the motor/speedo selection. There are other options like the Hobby Wing. However, when you look at customer service and things like the Novak trade in program, to me, it's a "no brainer."
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Old 09-10-2010, 07:50 AM   #1207
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Originally Posted by woodys3b View Post
Zac,

If you are talking about drilling the hole for the grub screw in the bottom of the uprights, use a bit that comes closest to the size of the existing hole without being bigger. The grub screws just hold the hing pin in place so don't tighten them too tight. That plastic is soft and it is easy to strip them out.

About the motor/speedo selection. There are other options like the Hobby Wing. However, when you look at customer service and things like the Novak trade in program, to me, it's a "no brainer."
Thanks once again!
Yeah, it is for the grub screw. I'll try to be careful when putting it in.
and I thought those customer service things sounded awesome, so I have mostly been trying to stay close to Novak.
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Old 09-10-2010, 07:57 AM   #1208
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Thanks once again!
Yeah, it is for the grub screw. I'll try to be careful when putting it in.
and I thought those customer service things sounded awesome, so I have mostly been trying to stay close to Novak.
I picked up the small grey plastic set of drill bits and the drill chuck adapter for my dremel a long while ago, and it came w/ a 2.5mm bit. Still use it today
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Old 09-10-2010, 12:01 PM   #1209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdeselms View Post
Arrgh...ordered a F/R sway bar kit from Tamiya for my TA-05 v2 and what I got has ball cup ends that won't work for the car. I look in the manual and it says I need totally different ends than what is provided in the sway bar kit...and I have to actually trim them to fit. Unfortunately, I don't have any of the rod ends it calls for!

So unless I've got something really wrong here, the instructions seem to indicate that I need 2 of the BB27 4mm cups for the mounts on the front suspension arms and 6 of the BB22 for the rest of the ends. Any insight on this would be helpful...
Yes, 4mm ballcups (Tamiya Part #51111) for the molded ball studs on the arms, 5mm ballcups (Tamiya #50875 or #53601) for everything else.

You can actually use the included ones in the kit for the 5mm ballstuds...they'll work fine if you don't want to buy extra. It's just the 4mm for the arms that are really needed to make it work on your v2. The reason they're not in the kit is that the kit was originally designed for the older TA04 suspension that comes on the original TA05, and those arms don't have the molded ballstuds (they use the ballstuds with the pass-through screw).

They're easy enough to cut through with an x-acto knife or even a box cutter utility blade for the ones you have to trim.
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Last edited by encore75; 09-10-2010 at 12:14 PM.
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Old 09-10-2010, 06:19 PM   #1210
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Would anyone happen to have/know a list of parts that are most likely to break on impacts?
I would like to stock up as much parts as I can afford right now, because I know I'll need them..

Also, does the titanium screw set replace all the screws provided in the kit, or does it only provide screws for certain parts of the car?

Thanks
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Old 09-10-2010, 06:48 PM   #1211
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Well, happily, Tamiya USA support says they'll send me the ball cups I need. Looks like the rear end ones still work (they're shorter than the instructions call for, but I just screw them down less) but yeah, the mounts on the reversible arms require those 4mm ones. Waiting till Monday to finish, I guess
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Old 09-10-2010, 06:58 PM   #1212
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Originally Posted by Zac_with_no_K View Post
Would anyone happen to have/know a list of parts that are most likely to break on impacts?
I would like to stock up as much parts as I can afford right now, because I know I'll need them..
I would think you'll want to have a couple suspension arms (part #51353) which are reversible so you don't end up with a bunch of lefts and no rights or something. A couple of spare hub carriers (part #51293) and belts (part #54170). Maybe some uprights (#51352 and #51354). I have hit things pretty good a few times with this car and it's been really durable, though; I was afraid I broke a rear arm once, but it turned out that it just popped out of the rear arm mount. I love how they've engineered that - putting ball ends on the hinge pins so they will just pop out of the mounts during severe impact, rather than destroying your arms and mounts. I might also get a diff rebuild kit, possibly some o-rings for your shocks.

Beyond suspension arm parts and maybe a replacement front bumper & mount, it doesn't seem like you should need too much in the way of spares unless you drive it like it's an off-road truck.
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Old 09-10-2010, 07:38 PM   #1213
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Originally Posted by kdeselms View Post
I would think you'll want to have a couple suspension arms (part #51353) which are reversible so you don't end up with a bunch of lefts and no rights or something. A couple of spare hub carriers (part #51293) and belts (part #54170). Maybe some uprights (#51352 and #51354). I have hit things pretty good a few times with this car and it's been really durable, though; I was afraid I broke a rear arm once, but it turned out that it just popped out of the rear arm mount. I love how they've engineered that - putting ball ends on the hinge pins so they will just pop out of the mounts during severe impact, rather than destroying your arms and mounts. I might also get a diff rebuild kit, possibly some o-rings for your shocks.

Beyond suspension arm parts and maybe a replacement front bumper & mount, it doesn't seem like you should need too much in the way of spares unless you drive it like it's an off-road truck.

LOL - anything that says TA05 is made for that chassis - Tamiya itself was hoping to get rid of the TB evo - but people still like shaft drive - go figure.

ENDING STATEMENT AND CONCLUSION -

bring over 25 plus years of overall RC exp to me, and I will either tell you that you are a genius that invented time warp, OR THAT YOU ARE A DORK. PERIOD.

I am echoing that.

I own a TA05-R but find a select few parts that share, but more importantly -

I found two tamiya kit number replacement part numbers for all TRF EVO 4 or 5 kits - \\


interrupt
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Old 09-10-2010, 07:40 PM   #1214
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Oh - bye the bye - dragnse7en DOES NOT NOR NEVER CRASH. PERIOD.
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Old 09-10-2010, 08:32 PM   #1215
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I don't think I really understood anything you just wrote, Dragn.
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