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Old 08-01-2009, 08:06 AM   #106
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The Tamiya pinions come in sizes from 16 to 25 teeth, so the 20 tooth pinion in the kit should give you a good balance of acceleration and top speed depending on the motor you're going to use.
I am running on 13.5T brush motor now, thinking for upgrade to 10.5T or 8.5T brushless motor. Which pinions teeth should i use? Thks!
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Old 08-01-2009, 08:59 AM   #107
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You need to let us know more...

What ESC are you running?
What Surface ?
How long is the track and is it very technical or open and flowing?
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Old 08-01-2009, 09:41 AM   #108
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I just finished building my chassis (short of electronics, that has to wait till the first of the month)...photoblogged it on my site (see signature), if you're curious. My first time building an on-road kit. Tamiya does a great job, just wish they'd be as helpful as other manufacturers in bagging steps together, etc...

So Grizzbob, what pinion are you running with a 17.5 motor, on this? I'm new to both belt drive train and 4wd!
On its first day I settled on a 45 tooth pinion with an 88 tooth spur(about a 4.01:1 FDR), but that's on a pretty small, tight track, & I'm not sure if that's the ideal gearing for it either(I normally run 13.5's there, but I'm focusing this car on Tamiya's GT2 class, so I'm testing primarily with the 17.5)....
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Old 08-01-2009, 10:28 PM   #109
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I have a Tekin RS speed controller with their 17.5 motor on the way, so now it's just a matter of figuring out how I'm going to gear it. Fairly large, flowing track, playground asphault. Only a few tight turns and a long straightaway. Just need some kind of starting point that I can work from.

Edit: Finished the body today, added a couple pictures.
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TA-05 ver.2-rcgt1.jpg   TA-05 ver.2-rcgt2.jpg  
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Last edited by kdeselms; 08-02-2009 at 10:57 PM.
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Old 08-04-2009, 10:03 AM   #110
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I just put a tamiya Arta G body set for sale in the FS thread
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Old 08-05-2009, 07:45 AM   #111
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Originally Posted by kdeselms View Post
I have a Tekin RS speed controller with their 17.5 motor on the way, so now it's just a matter of figuring out how I'm going to gear it. Fairly large, flowing track, playground asphault. Only a few tight turns and a long straightaway. Just need some kind of starting point that I can work from.

Edit: Finished the body today, added a couple pictures.
Good read on the blog. It's interesting to get the perspective of an off-road guy putting together an on-road kit. As for the diff balls on the outer edges of the rings, this is actually becoming the preferred style in on-road, as the diffs stand up much better to the torque of brushless motors, and last longer between rebuilds. It's the same design they use on their flagship 416, though with aluminum diff halves. I believe Tamiya first introduced this, though, on the 501x off-road buggy.
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Old 08-05-2009, 08:30 AM   #112
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Anybody know the part number for the plastic inserts in the TA05 spool? I'd like to have a few spares.
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Old 08-05-2009, 04:33 PM   #113
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Good read on the blog. It's interesting to get the perspective of an off-road guy putting together an on-road kit. As for the diff balls on the outer edges of the rings, this is actually becoming the preferred style in on-road, as the diffs stand up much better to the torque of brushless motors, and last longer between rebuilds. It's the same design they use on their flagship 416, though with aluminum diff halves. I believe Tamiya first introduced this, though, on the 501x off-road buggy.
Ahh cool...thanks for clarifying that. I thought it seemed weird, but I suppose that makes sense. I imagine I'm gonna end up getting the aluminum outdrives for these, rather than the plastic ones...once they wear out or break, I guess!
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Old 08-05-2009, 05:17 PM   #114
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Anybody know the part number for the plastic inserts in the TA05 spool? I'd like to have a few spares.
Plastic inserts?
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Old 08-05-2009, 05:30 PM   #115
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Plastic inserts?
Apparently they're steel. The little outdrive pieces is what I was after.
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Old 08-05-2009, 05:35 PM   #116
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So you are looking for the steel outdrives then? If you want delrin, you will need to find the white 415 spool outdrives as 416 ones will not work.
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Old 08-06-2009, 09:25 PM   #117
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Are these the plastic ones that will fit?
Tamiya #9804268
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Old 08-06-2009, 09:57 PM   #118
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Yes.
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Old 08-06-2009, 10:39 PM   #119
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
.......
As for the diff balls on the outer edges of the rings, this is actually becoming the preferred style in on-road, as the diffs stand up much better to the torque of brushless motors, and last longer between rebuilds. It's the same design they use on their flagship 416, though with aluminum diff halves. I believe Tamiya first introduced this, though, on the 501x off-road buggy.
Not quite. Kawada and Corally had the diff balls riding at the edge of the diff rings for a while now. And other probably (Yokomo and Robitronic Avid for instance). But I think this trend appeared out of the need to use the same diff rings with larger diameter diff pulleys (which more or less all cars use these days) which can accomodate more balls. The Avid however was the only to have purpose-designed rings with a very large diameter, so in their case I think it is a calculated move. This improves torque transmitting efficiency, so I expect it is a feature that will stay.

What i am looking forward to is to see a diff where the balls don't run down the same track on the rings but are a little oiffset in groups of three (four groups in a 12 ball diff). Thius would help the diff last a while between rebuilds. I have designed and made one by hand for my Kawada Sigma2 out of delrin (before Tamiya introduced their 37 tooth pulley in the 501 that has only htree balls offset outsied the others) but couldn't find anyone to cheaply manufacture it. I have also found a way to make the pulley out of one piece of material rather than have to glue/weld/attach somehow one side ring which I think is an improvement over conventional designs.
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Old 08-07-2009, 06:18 AM   #120
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What i am looking forward to is to see a diff where the balls don't run down the same track on the rings but are a little oiffset in groups of three (four groups in a 12 ball diff). Thius would help the diff last a while between rebuilds. I have designed and made one by hand for my Kawada Sigma2 out of delrin (before Tamiya introduced their 37 tooth pulley in the 501 that has only htree balls offset outsied the others) but couldn't find anyone to cheaply manufacture it. I have also found a way to make the pulley out of one piece of material rather than have to glue/weld/attach somehow one side ring which I think is an improvement over conventional designs.
Interesting idea on offsetting the diff balls. Would be nice to see what the improvements are. Pretty sure the 416 pulleys are moulded in one piece.
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