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Old 01-14-2010, 06:35 PM   #691
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1. I did a search, and found it posted 3 times what parts to buy. Search the on-road forum.. IFS conversion

2.

SPEEDTECHRC.COM
AMPDRAW.COM

and.. EBAY!
Thanks!
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Old 01-14-2010, 08:08 PM   #692
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Am running 11.5T brushless. Anyone tried it before for the appropiate fdr?
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Old 01-14-2010, 10:37 PM   #693
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Am running 11.5T brushless. Anyone tried it before for the appropiate fdr?
Mate - like any FDR it depends on your setup.


Front One-Way, Spool or Diff
ESC (Fan/No Fan, Profile)
Motor (Heat Sink, Fan, No Fan, Advanced Timing)
Track (Carpet or Asphalt)
Track (Indoor or Outdoor)
Track (If Outdoor, Track Temp)
Track Size (Short Track, Med)
Class: Drift, TC, VTA

These are all huge factors. My suggestion to you is to run a base FDR and then do adjustments based on YOUR results. If you have too much top end or low end torque. Your motor temps -if you're running too hot or cool.

Nobody can give you advice on your FDR, which is why you didn't receive an answer the first time you asked about it. Start stock and move in one direction or the other based on what results you're trying to accomplish and your own driving abilities.
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Old 01-14-2010, 10:49 PM   #694
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Well im using it for drift racing and the new track layout is twice the size of the one i race before on a 9t motor with a fdr of 7.08 & 6.6 in the finals. Am running both differentials front n rear, esc with fan, profile 323, motor 11.5 with fan, no advance timing, outdoor track temperature of 27 to 30 degrees C. Size of track is medium with a long straight on 20 to 30 meters. Thanks for the reply mate
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Originally Posted by Pingers View Post
Mate - like any FDR it depends on your setup.


Front One-Way, Spool or Diff
ESC (Fan/No Fan, Profile)
Motor (Heat Sink, Fan, No Fan, Advanced Timing)
Track (Carpet or Asphalt)
Track (Indoor or Outdoor)
Track (If Outdoor, Track Temp)
Track Size (Short Track, Med)
Class: Drift, TC, VTA

These are all huge factors. My suggestion to you is to run a base FDR and then do adjustments based on YOUR results. If you have too much top end or low end torque. Your motor temps -if you're running too hot or cool.

Nobody can give you advice on your FDR, which is why you didn't receive an answer the first time you asked about it. Start stock and move in one direction or the other based on what results you're trying to accomplish and your own driving abilities.
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Old 01-14-2010, 11:08 PM   #695
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I don't run drift, but I'm sure you could bring that FDR to 5.25 for a starting point and then temp your motor.

I'm not sure how much torque you need to drift the car but that would give you more top end speed if the track size has doubled.
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Old 01-16-2010, 09:40 PM   #696
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hi, thinking about getting a ta05v2, but looking through this thread, there seems to be alot of $$ spent on hop ups.

why not just get the 416x instead of hopping up a ta05v2?

also, whats a fully kitted ta05v2 weigh at? Would it be under weight or just over?
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Old 01-17-2010, 08:44 AM   #697
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Not very sure about the 416, but to me, the motor position seems to be around the centre of the chassis, while the 416 is near the rear.

Also, it is the love for the TA05 that ppl actually hop it up alot.

TA05 has been popular since it has been out, since 2006, be it in the drift or touring world, so i suppose people actually spend more money to hop it up, its like seeing a child grow, giving it the best of everything.

My 2 cents.
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Old 01-17-2010, 08:52 AM   #698
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Originally Posted by captain stacker View Post
hi, thinking about getting a ta05v2, but looking through this thread, there seems to be alot of $$ spent on hop ups.

why not just get the 416x instead of hopping up a ta05v2?

also, whats a fully kitted ta05v2 weigh at? Would it be under weight or just over?

the TA05 rocks in the stock class.. while the 416X is much better at running Mod.
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Old 01-17-2010, 02:49 PM   #699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captain stacker View Post
hi, thinking about getting a ta05v2, but looking through this thread, there seems to be alot of $$ spent on hop ups.

why not just get the 416x instead of hopping up a ta05v2?

also, whats a fully kitted ta05v2 weigh at? Would it be under weight or just over?
Well, I think one big reason is that you can get a ver.2 & do a good deal of hopups for around $350, while a 416X will START at about $480-500. Plus, as was already said, it does VERY well in stock/spec classes, while the 416's are more meant for mod(though they can certainly be set up for stock & spec classes too). However, weight is a slight issue, I've noticed with mine that I can't get it under 1500 grams yet, while my 416WE easily sits closer to 1350g before I add the neccessary weights to make it race-legal. In the end, though, it really comes down to which you can afford & which one strikes your fancy the most, because both are EXCELLENT cars....
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Old 01-17-2010, 03:44 PM   #700
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Well, after a day of racing yesterday, I was checking my belt tension and noticed play in the center pulley when I put pressure on the belts. I took it apart today expecting to find a seized bearing on the pulley side of the center shaft. What I found disappointed me. It was just slop between the flanged 840 bearing and the motor mount. I want to switch to 64p gears but with this much slop, I'm concerned. I ordered the Tamiya hop up blue aluminum motor mount which I hope will be machined to better tolerances for a tighter fit. In the mean time, anyone experience this? Did you correct it with the part I just ordered? Can you recommend some high quality 64p gears? (stock gear ratio is working fine for me)

Also, regarding the posts above, I got my TA-05 v2 because it's different. I'll easily have enough invested in hop ups to have bought a TRF-416 or TC-5, but what's the fun in that? For me, it's much more rewarding to take a good car and make it great than just buying a great car. Plus, it's satisfying to be able to run with the expensive cars and even beat them with what they consider to be a toy. I need to get the weight down a bit to really competitive but that will come. I'm waiting for a light weight tub chassis to come out. This car is tough and very tunable. And, as stated above, with a good setup, it can be very competitive in the stock class.
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Old 01-17-2010, 04:18 PM   #701
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Thanks for ur answer, so its suitable for drifting or like a handbrake, isnt it?
Sort of, but you can use it for non-drifting purpose as well... Some people like the fronts to be spinning freely during off-power/braking. In my opinion, it depends on your style of driving, it's a love/hate thing. I've only used it in off-road, and I personally hated it... Made the car swing around the corner like a 2wd. Some people like that effect, swing, point, shoot, swing, point, shoot, repeat... I personally like coasting into a turn and powering out of it without the rear end breaking loose... It's all preference... For drifting, I have no idea, I have 0 experience with drifting...

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Did you correct it with the part I just ordered? Can you recommend some high quality 64p gears? (stock gear ratio is working fine for me)
Must really be a fluke on Tamiya's part... I have never experienced workmanship issues with Tamiya stuff, but I might've just been lucky. If you feel slop again with the new motor mount, I wonder if the bearing itself is out of tolerance? If you have a caliper, it should be fairly easy to determine which of the two is the offending part...
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Old 01-17-2010, 04:24 PM   #702
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The new motor mount is fantastic.
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Old 01-17-2010, 05:00 PM   #703
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Try checking whether you have your spur screwed in too tight. I used to have that small play on my spur but after disassembling them and putting it back together again, its alright for now.
Last weekend was busy for me on the drift tracks as the original differential was worn out giving me problems in tightening my belting and the diffrential screw was loose so i had to change them and my LHS here doesnt have them in stock. So i had to get the HPI differential screw. Tried to remove the thrust bearing from the differential and the bearing was totally worn out. It broke apart when i remove them. Lucky for me a friend of mine had a spare at the race track. During the race, i even broke the 840 flange bearing which came off into bits and pieces. Guess i have to look for some more spare parts
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Old 01-17-2010, 05:32 PM   #704
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Originally Posted by Chris Furman View Post
the TA05 rocks in the stock class.. while the 416X is much better at running Mod.
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Originally Posted by Grizzbob View Post
.......... However, weight is a slight issue, I've noticed with mine that I can't get it under 1500 grams yet, while my 416WE easily sits closer to 1350g before I add the neccessary weights to make it race-legal. In the end, though, it really comes down to which you can afford & which one strikes your fancy the most, because both are EXCELLENT cars....
I'm only an on road noob, but I would think with the weight advantage the 416 has, that it would be a way better car for stock racing than the TA05v2. Giving away 150grams is alot, especially at club level racing where no one cares too much about being underweight.
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Old 01-17-2010, 05:42 PM   #705
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I'm only an on road noob, but I would think with the weight advantage the 416 has, that it would be a way better car for stock racing than the TA05v2. Giving away 150grams is alot, especially at club level racing where no one cares too much about being underweight.

Nope the motor mounted towards the center helps handling... Weight doesn't make that much of a difference in brushless motors... Unless you are super competitive and NEVER make a mistake and your lap times are identical every lap.... Then maybe weight may have a play in the results.
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