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Old 11-05-2009, 06:42 AM   #301
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A slipper? You mean like offroad cars? Most, if not all, touring cars do not come with slippers. Main reason is that they are illegal (or against the rules) if you race. However, if you are just bashing, then rules don't matter. I don't even know if they make one for the car.
I heard of 1 about 3 years ago but I never bought 1. Maybe this is like it? http://cgi.ebay.com.my/ws/eBayISAPI....m=250192901714
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53855
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Old 11-05-2009, 07:25 AM   #302
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What is the different between upgrading the aluminum bulkhead and the carbon reinforced bulkhead, which one is better?
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Old 11-05-2009, 10:14 AM   #303
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Plastic is more forgiving than aluminum. With the aluminum bulkhead the diff pully is exposed whereas the plastic still uses the cover. If you like bling than hook it up!!!
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Old 11-05-2009, 10:35 AM   #304
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I find the open units ( alu) better because 1) on carpet its easier to clean the fluff off , and 2) on tar more difficult for any little stones to get stuck inside the cover..... plus it's BLUE
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Old 11-05-2009, 08:20 PM   #305
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Will thunderpower 2s 40c 5000 lipos fit in the V.2?
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Old 11-05-2009, 08:49 PM   #306
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Will thunderpower 2s 40c 5000 lipos fit in the V.2?
Yes, though I'm not sure if you can do it with the original battery hold down(I have that battery, but I haven't used the molded hold down because I prefer to use strapping tape, & with tape, the TP fits just fine, as do my SMC packs)....
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Old 11-05-2009, 10:50 PM   #307
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Will thunderpower 2s 40c 5000 lipos fit in the V.2?
yes it will.. you'll need 6mm of spacers under the battery post.
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Old 11-07-2009, 03:39 PM   #308
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Can't wait to get mine up. I have joined the ranks of you all!

Any build tips or anything I should pay close attention to?

Also, what paint jobs did you guys give your Cusco body? Did you do the box-art or did you guys do your own color scheme?

I was thinking of doing something bright, maybe something neon-ish. My eyes aren't as good as it used to be...
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Old 11-07-2009, 04:31 PM   #309
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Welcome The build is straight forward and perfect. The only thing I did was add shims to the diff to remove some side play. This also ensures that the belts run perfect on the pully without rubbing on the sides. After you break-in the belts re-adjust your tension.
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Old 11-08-2009, 12:26 PM   #310
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Also, make sure to run your belts as loose as possible without them skipping for maximum smoothness.

As for the body, I did mine as box-art. I dig the Cusco black and red scheme and I always like having a realistic body that's a replica of an actual race car. I'm still the only one running it at T/A so there's no risk of confusion with anyone else's car (yet).
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Old 11-08-2009, 05:57 PM   #311
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This is my first belt car, so as such, I will ask some newbish questions:

1) How do you break in the belt?

2) Is there a tool to measure the amount of tension the belts are supposed to have? For instance, for gear mesh, I feed it regular printer-paper thickness paper feed between the teeth, squeeze the spur and pinion, and the gap left after removing the paper is the correct mesh. Is there such a thing for belts?


GreyMachine: I totally agree. Recently, I've been paying more attention to the box arts of anything Tamiya, which they do with awesome detail of the "real" cars...

I think I'm going to put the stickers on with the same scheme but perhaps alter the colors slightly... Can you imagine three Cuscos running around with nearly identical paint and stickers? hehehe....
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Old 11-08-2009, 06:00 PM   #312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom_chang79 View Post
This is my first belt car, so as such, I will ask some newbish questions:

1) How do you break in the belt?

2) Is there a tool to measure the amount of tension the belts are supposed to have? For instance, for gear mesh, I feed it regular printer-paper thickness paper feed between the teeth, squeeze the spur and pinion, and the gap left after removing the paper is the correct mesh. Is there such a thing for belts?


GreyMachine: I totally agree. Recently, I've been paying more attention to the box arts of anything Tamiya, which they do with awesome detail of the "real" cars...

I think I'm going to put the stickers on with the same scheme but perhaps alter the colors slightly... Can you imagine three Cuscos running around with nearly identical paint and stickers? hehehe....
put the belts in a snack sixe bag with wd40 and let it sit for awhile
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Old 11-08-2009, 11:31 PM   #313
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Must I break in the belts?
Also, what do you guys use to remove the excess of plastic parts? Is it a must for non-moveable parts (eg. gearbox)?
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Old 11-09-2009, 11:50 AM   #314
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Must I break in the belts?
Also, what do you guys use to remove the excess of plastic parts? Is it a must for non-moveable parts (eg. gearbox)?
I don't believe there is any real advantage to doing any prep to the belts other than installing them properly. This whole "dipping and soaking" stuff doesn't seem to have any appreciable positive difference, and can lead to premature belt failure. Just put the belts on fairly loose, and take up the slack as they age.

For excess flashing removal, you can use a hobby knife to whittle it off, or a file to grind it off. Sometimes you do this to make sure there is no binding with the parts rubbing against other parts. Oftentimes, removing the flash its just for looks.
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Old 11-09-2009, 12:18 PM   #315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom_chang79 View Post
This is my first belt car, so as such, I will ask some newbish questions:

1) How do you break in the belt?

2) Is there a tool to measure the amount of tension the belts are supposed to have? For instance, for gear mesh, I feed it regular printer-paper thickness paper feed between the teeth, squeeze the spur and pinion, and the gap left after removing the paper is the correct mesh. Is there such a thing for belts?


GreyMachine: I totally agree. Recently, I've been paying more attention to the box arts of anything Tamiya, which they do with awesome detail of the "real" cars...

I think I'm going to put the stickers on with the same scheme but perhaps alter the colors slightly... Can you imagine three Cuscos running around with nearly identical paint and stickers? hehehe....
Just run the car with the stock set up and after a pack or so go back and check the tension. If it sags a lot when you push down on it the tighten it with your eccentrics. There really is no tool for checking tension it's just a feel thing. I would not soak belts in any sort of solution at all though this is my opinion, but I have been racing on-road for about 25 years and I never once soaked a belt. Rule of thumb with belts is have a few in your pit box.
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