k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

FDR = final drive ratio

the mathematical equation goes like this (spur/pinion) x the internal ratio of the car (diff gear/puller / center pulley/bevel gear)

so on the V2 - the internal ratio is 2.055 (37t pulley/18t center pulley)

so, if you had a 95t spur, and put a 48t pinion on your car you'd get the following:

(95/48) * 2.055 = 4.07 FDR

basically the lower the number, the more top-end the car will have, but you'll loose some bottom end grunt (power off turns)...however, this is all related to the track you're running...if you are running on a real small, tight (lots of turns) track, a FDR like my example above, could possibly overheat and destroy your motor - so on a track like that, you'd want a higher FDR

make sense?

Dirt_McGirt

Cool thanks for the info. So a little lower fdr will help it run a little cooler?

meva

tamiya TA 05 ver II can used to drift?

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

not really...a lower FDR (like 3.8 v 6.5) would generate more heat in the motor...You're best (and safest) bet would be to ask around at your track and see what most of the guys are running and go from there..Plus every motor has a sweet spot - a gearing combination that really makes it sing - so when you ask you track mates, make note of what motors they are running..

what i normally do is ask someone, and then go (for example) 1 tooth smaller for a sllightly higher FDR - just because everyone's driving style is different, what works for faster dude "A", may not work for you (or feel quick), so adjusting up or down in necessary...

rule of thumb:
lower FDR = more top end, less grunt off corners
higher FDR = lower top end, more bottom end grunt

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

sure why not? I don't drift (at least intentionally ) but pretty much every chassis can be used as a drift car

probably wanna check out the drift threads and see what mods guys are doing to get the most out of their chassis

maxepower

iTrader: (1)

As you can see I run at the Tamiya track just about every week and most of us are running Reedy sonics, Thunder power, Duo 3's or Ballistics and we all run around 3.8 on all the motors. Motor temps are coming off at 140-170. degrees F. after about 6 minutes with a fan, so I would say that's pretty conservative! Right now I'm using Reedy sonic and Thunder power and both are real close in power. I'll run closer to 4.0 FDR on the Thunder power and closer to 3.8 on the Reedy. My ESC is the NOVAK EDGE! This is all in the Blinky or linear spec. class racing for TCS.
Just my 2$

CW22

iTrader: (110)

So, on the Reedy Sonic 17.5T your FDR is 3.8, do mind telling me what pinnion and what number spur you using? thank you.

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

Are there 2dg chubs for this car?

maxepower

iTrader: (1)

95/50 = FDR 3.895 Actually closer to 3.9 than 3.8

maxepower

iTrader: (1)

Please translate!

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

2 degree c-hubs

maxepower

iTrader: (1)

OOOH! Now I understand.

I do know Tamiya made 2 deg. C-hubs for the earlier version TA05. Not sure if they made it for V2! I'll see if I can find out?

jameyfoto

Hey all, I'm considering building my first car from scratch and I like what I'm seeing with this as a base: http://broadtechonlineshop.com/eagle...aspx?id=3860V2

I hate the idea of buying a whole v2 just to strip some parts off and add them to this. Is there any such thing as a parts list to take the above link and turn it into a car? I already have electronics I'll be stripping off my current car. This will be used as a drift car.

iPearl

iTrader: (96)

PLan to shell out some cash if you buy parts.
Buying a basic kit and converting is still cheaper especially buy a used TA05

Only parts u will be using of it is the bulk head which you will upgrade anyway.

The arms, and the diffs, Belts, and all the metal pins shafts and turn buckles and cups.

The rest if junk to you with a conversion LOL

jameyfoto

bmmer. the cheapest ta05 I've found is around $200...