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Old 03-17-2012, 10:37 AM   #1996
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Like this chart has the short, fluorescent and standard colored springs.
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Old 03-17-2012, 10:29 PM   #1997
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I believe I run between 13.5 and 14 mm.
The way I set them is to make them as equal as possible from left to right, the actual amount may vary because of not all parts are exactly the same. But, the key point I'm going to make is what gives me the actual number. This is not found in any manual or set-up sheet, so you won't find this info anywhere else.
I set the rocker arms when the suspension is in fully loaded running condition, tires,battery, etc. etc. so that the arms are perfectly parallel to each other, if you are looking down at the car on a flat surface or tweek board, they are straight from front to rear. If you do this the pushrods will be between 13.5 and 14mm.
I found by doing this the geometry of the rockers are at where they were designed to be at in this position so the springs will be at the angle they were designed to be in by whoever designed this IFS suspension. More like Mad Scientists to me. However it was done the geometry is in pre-set neutral position and that's how it should look and work in real racing conditions on the car!
Hey whatever works, right?
Try it you'll like it!
Just my 2$
Awesome i will give it a try, ATM i have them both at 14mm (turnbuckle length) and now im gonna rebuild the whole car as its been awhile lolol

Also with spares i would go for 416 or carbon reinforced parts as they hold the screws in well, i had problems with the stock plastic where the kingpin or screws will just pop out after a hit and the hole,thread are all messed up.
Been using the harder plastic parts and have no problems so far, even with a few hits and crashes.
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Old 03-18-2012, 07:35 AM   #1998
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Looking at getting a TA05, can I convert it to a TA-05 v2 or should i just buy a TA05 v2?
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Old 03-18-2012, 07:43 AM   #1999
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get the version 2 kit...the chassis plates are different.
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Old 03-18-2012, 09:07 AM   #2000
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Just to make sure - you're saying to get a V2 instead of a TA05 and trying to convert it to a V2.

Thanks - im basing my info off of a "Best 1/10 Electric Plastic Chassis Touring Car" so want to make sure i start with the right car - thanks!

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get the version 2 kit...the chassis plates are different.
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Old 03-20-2012, 03:24 AM   #2001
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Hey guys

I have been rebuilding my Ver.2 follwoing the manaul everything seems fine unitl i put the motor in.
Once i put the motor in everything seems tight. Before i could move the motor&diffs by pulling on one of the belts, now it seems alot harder just doesn't want to move without some force. Without the motor its quite free and smooth.

Both spur & pinion are worn but still useable and i have left enough clearence for the gears too
Wasn't like this before i took it apart

What will be a good setting for the belt tension ?? as i think it maybe to tight
Motor used is a Ezrun 5.5T

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Old 03-21-2012, 10:01 AM   #2002
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Any of you guys tried the exotek chassis? or the tamiya carbon reinforced one for that matter? How does it affect the ride?
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Old 03-21-2012, 10:07 PM   #2003
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Any of you guys tried the exotek chassis? or the tamiya carbon reinforced one for that matter? How does it affect the ride?
Carbon reinforced is alot stiffer than the stock chassis. I have both and i tried twisting them and can easy tell the difference.
Havent tried the exotek, maybe one day lolol
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Old 03-21-2012, 10:17 PM   #2004
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personally i use the stock chassis but the carbon reinforced is i guess better. id personally stay away from the exoteck stuff..it usually just open a can o' worms. thats my opinion. ive never had good luck with their stuff..ive always had to elongate holes, trim extra materials off..an such. unless your running more then 13.5 on a tight carpet track with higher bite id say save the $$ and use the stock one. good luck tho!! TAMIYA FTW!!
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Old 03-22-2012, 05:44 AM   #2005
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Originally Posted by cdwilliams1 View Post
Any of you guys tried the exotek chassis? or the tamiya carbon reinforced one for that matter? How does it affect the ride?
I have the exotek chassis and I can say that it's been a big improvement with my TA-05 ver.II I use as a VTA car. The main issue I was having was weigh/weight distribution. After installing the exotech my car became so light that adding the weight back in on the bottom deck and close to the front diff lowered the center of gravity and properly balanced the car.

It handles lightyears better then it did before
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Old 03-22-2012, 06:04 AM   #2006
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Thanks guys. I picked up the Tamiya Carbon reinforced one for my initial build.

What brand spur gears are you guys running? Did you stay with 48 pitch or go to 64?
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Old 03-22-2012, 04:38 PM   #2007
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Im new to the Tamiya TA-05 V2 crowd and I've been going through lots of posts trying to get up to speed. Bought a used TA05 V2 with a Novak Dually ESC (no reverse) and for my current driving skills i definitely need reverse.

I've been looking at a Hobbywing eZRun 60A and a Mamba Max ESC 5700 or 7700.

Please tell me if im looking at the right ESC's
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Old 03-22-2012, 05:05 PM   #2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toast. View Post
Im new to the Tamiya TA-05 V2 crowd and I've been going through lots of posts trying to get up to speed. Bought a used TA05 V2 with a Novak Dually ESC (no reverse) and for my current driving skills i definitely need reverse.

I've been looking at a Hobbywing eZRun 60A and a Mamba Max ESC 5700 or 7700.

Please tell me if im looking at the right ESC's
There's really not a "right" motor and esc combo. Are you racing, drifting or bashing?
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Old 03-22-2012, 05:13 PM   #2009
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Looking forward to mostly racing with occasional drifting and hopefully no bashing. Also planning on swapping out to a LIPO (~5000 Mah, 2s probably Gen Ace) once i find one that fits.

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Originally Posted by @Art_Mighty View Post
There's really not a "right" motor and esc combo. Are you racing, drifting or bashing?
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Old 03-22-2012, 07:50 PM   #2010
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Looking forward to mostly racing with occasional drifting and hopefully no bashing. Also planning on swapping out to a LIPO (~5000 Mah, 2s probably Gen Ace) once i find one that fits.
if you're racing, you're going to want a 17.5 or 13.5 motor...and a sensored esc - the ez-run isn't a sensored speedo and not sure about the mamba

also gotta check to see what kind of rules the track you're planning to race at has - do they allow boost/turbo, or are they a blinky track?? if they are boost or blinky, neither of those would be correct for racing

sorry...they prices are right, but be careful what you spend your $$ or else you'll have a $50 paper weight on your workbench
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