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Old 03-13-2012, 10:49 AM   #1981
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[QUOTE=alex_evo;10460426]
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where did you find andrew kuntze's setup? i saw someone mention is before and I went looking for it, but no luck finding it

It was probs me who mentioned it before hehe

http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/ln/462/test_setup.pdf

heres the setup sheet from andrew kuntze

His settings works well, mine is very similar to his and car handles well
don't work - get a message about not being allowed since i'm being sent directly to a pdf file
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Old 03-13-2012, 12:36 PM   #1982
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don't work - get a message about not being allowed since i'm being sent directly to a pdf file
Right click on the link and select "save link as" and you will be able to just download the pdf.
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Old 03-13-2012, 05:50 PM   #1983
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Right click on the link and select "save link as" and you will be able to just download the pdf.
well that works
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Old 03-14-2012, 07:33 AM   #1984
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so what length pushrods are ppl using since there are 2 factory settings to choose from
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Old 03-14-2012, 11:23 AM   #1985
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Hey,

Just throwing this out here since I'm not really sure where to ask. Is there a comparison guide somewhere between all the different Tamiya TC chassis? I'm considering using one for a VTA ride and I'm so confused on all the different models (TT01/TA05/TA06/etc) and what the benfits are of each, as well as the availability of upgrades. Can someone shed some light on this?
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Old 03-14-2012, 12:03 PM   #1986
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Originally Posted by cdwilliams1 View Post
Hey,

Just throwing this out here since I'm not really sure where to ask. Is there a comparison guide somewhere between all the different Tamiya TC chassis? I'm considering using one for a VTA ride and I'm so confused on all the different models (TT01/TA05/TA06/etc) and what the benfits are of each, as well as the availability of upgrades. Can someone shed some light on this?
I can't speak for the higher end cars but I would NOT use the TT01. I have just finished a season using it as a spec class car and it wasn't pretty. The TT01 is a very rugged, inexpensive car but tuning options are limited [hence the use in our spec class] unless you get the TT01E version with adjustable suspension arms [mine did not have these]. Also, the gearing for the TT01 is very limited. There are only about 3-4 pinions and 3 spur gears that you can use, Tamiya only spur gears.

I have a TA05 and think it would do fine in a VTA class. Likewise, the TA06. All the TRF cars [41x models] would also probably work but I have no experience with them.
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Last edited by bencason; 03-14-2012 at 12:09 PM. Reason: grammar :(
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Old 03-15-2012, 05:43 AM   #1987
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Originally Posted by cdwilliams1 View Post
Hey,

Just throwing this out here since I'm not really sure where to ask. Is there a comparison guide somewhere between all the different Tamiya TC chassis? I'm considering using one for a VTA ride and I'm so confused on all the different models (TT01/TA05/TA06/etc) and what the benfits are of each, as well as the availability of upgrades. Can someone shed some light on this?
as far as the different chassis, look at it this way:

TT01 - ideal beginner car, perfect SPEC class car. We've used them the last 2 years for 24 hour enduro - hardly any adjustments to speak of (shock positions, steering ackerman), and very limited gearing. Works best in a controlled environment. tons of hop-ups available, but none will get the car to the level of the TA-series or the TRF-series of Tamiya cars

TA04/TA05/TA05 - ultimate club racer car. adjustability matching the high-end race chassis, but (usually) much more affordable. tons of hop-ups to match the 'bling' of the high-end machines

TRF 41X machine - ultimate race-bred vehicles. what you see all the pros drive made for and to compete with the top level of competition (think, marc rheinard, paul limeux, etc) and cars (xray T3-whatever, HB TCX, AE TC6.1, etc)...usually have everything you'd need to compete at the top level, but hop-ups available for them

suffice to say, if you're running VTA, USGT, 17.5 blink TC - either the TA-series or the 41X series will do more then adequate for the average racer who runs those classes...I've seen guys run very competitively, and win regularly, using a TA-series chassis vs the TRF 41x chassis and the like.

bottom line, it depends on how much $$ you want to spend to compete...but remember, the bigger $$ doesn't alway guarentee a win or top 5 finish...sometimes the more adjustments a chassis has can setup a good car right out the window - ie, simpler is sometimes easier

that's my 2 cents I've run a TA-series car (TA04 and TA05) and been very competitive with the high-end chassis - and i've also run a high-end chassis and been beat by a TA-series-like car but sadly, I've never seen a TT01 compete well against the other 2 series but then again, the TT01 wasn't designed for that kind of competition
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Old 03-16-2012, 07:54 AM   #1988
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k_bojar View Post
as far as the different chassis, look at it this way:

TT01 - ideal beginner car, perfect SPEC class car. We've used them the last 2 years for 24 hour enduro - hardly any adjustments to speak of (shock positions, steering ackerman), and very limited gearing. Works best in a controlled environment. tons of hop-ups available, but none will get the car to the level of the TA-series or the TRF-series of Tamiya cars

TA04/TA05/TA05 - ultimate club racer car. adjustability matching the high-end race chassis, but (usually) much more affordable. tons of hop-ups to match the 'bling' of the high-end machines

TRF 41X machine - ultimate race-bred vehicles. what you see all the pros drive made for and to compete with the top level of competition (think, marc rheinard, paul limeux, etc) and cars (xray T3-whatever, HB TCX, AE TC6.1, etc)...usually have everything you'd need to compete at the top level, but hop-ups available for them

suffice to say, if you're running VTA, USGT, 17.5 blink TC - either the TA-series or the 41X series will do more then adequate for the average racer who runs those classes...I've seen guys run very competitively, and win regularly, using a TA-series chassis vs the TRF 41x chassis and the like.

bottom line, it depends on how much $$ you want to spend to compete...but remember, the bigger $$ doesn't alway guarentee a win or top 5 finish...sometimes the more adjustments a chassis has can setup a good car right out the window - ie, simpler is sometimes easier

that's my 2 cents I've run a TA-series car (TA04 and TA05) and been very competitive with the high-end chassis - and i've also run a high-end chassis and been beat by a TA-series-like car but sadly, I've never seen a TT01 compete well against the other 2 series but then again, the TT01 wasn't designed for that kind of competition
Exactly what I needed. Pulled the trigger on a TA05 v.II chassis. Thanks!
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Old 03-16-2012, 08:55 AM   #1989
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What spare parts should I pick up? Does anything tend to break? The track I'm going to run at only stocks traxxas slash parts and VTA tires. They don't really have a pro shop.

What hop-ups would you prioritize? I plan to accumulate them over time...
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Old 03-16-2012, 12:13 PM   #1990
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At the minimum, I like to carry arms, front and rear uprights, and c-hubs. Most of which can be found here
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Old 03-16-2012, 12:44 PM   #1991
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You also ought to have the M parts tree in case you get a suspension arm torn off like I did [some one hit my car HARD]. The M parts has plastic suspension balls [likely to be lost if the susp. hinge pin is pulled out] & spacers [always useful]

Also, if a front C hub breaks you will likely need 51100 EVO IV Flanged Tube 4.6x4.7 to replace the one that may get lost. There is a shorter one on the top of the c-hub but you can file down a lower one [the lower one is only a 0.2mm longer than the top, it may fit w/o alteration].

Take a look at the pages in the manual where the steering arms mount to the c-hub to see the parts that may get lost if something breaks. Same is true for rear wheel mounting.
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Old 03-16-2012, 08:24 PM   #1992
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Silly question here, but how do you tell which Tamiya springs you are running? Basically I have a pair of Tamiya blues and yellows.
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Old 03-16-2012, 08:50 PM   #1993
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Silly question here, but how do you tell which Tamiya springs you are running? Basically I have a pair of Tamiya blues and yellows.
Red= soft
yellow= medium
silver=medium hard
blue= hard
white= extra hard
Is that what you were asking?
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Old 03-16-2012, 10:11 PM   #1994
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so what length pushrods are ppl using since there are 2 factory settings to choose from
I believe I run between 13.5 and 14 mm.
The way I set them is to make them as equal as possible from left to right, the actual amount may vary because of not all parts are exactly the same. But, the key point I'm going to make is what gives me the actual number. This is not found in any manual or set-up sheet, so you won't find this info anywhere else.
I set the rocker arms when the suspension is in fully loaded running condition, tires,battery, etc. etc. so that the arms are perfectly parallel to each other, if you are looking down at the car on a flat surface or tweek board, they are straight from front to rear. If you do this the pushrods will be between 13.5 and 14mm.
I found by doing this the geometry of the rockers are at where they were designed to be at in this position so the springs will be at the angle they were designed to be in by whoever designed this IFS suspension. More like Mad Scientists to me. However it was done the geometry is in pre-set neutral position and that's how it should look and work in real racing conditions on the car!
Hey whatever works, right?
Try it you'll like it!
Just my 2$
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Old 03-17-2012, 10:26 AM   #1995
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Red= soft
yellow= medium
silver=medium hard
blue= hard
white= extra hard
Is that what you were asking?
Well I see some springs are "short" and some that are not labeled just colored. Which spring set would I get for my car or does anyone have the lengths of the short springs or standard springs so i can also tell what I have on my car?
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