k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

mine's built with no spacers on the rocker arms - at least that's how the manual says to build it...I'm actually rebuilding the entire thing noticed it was built wrong by its original owner

i know the non-R version's manual seems to show running a 1mm space is the same thing as running the outter most hole on a normal shock tower, a .5mm is like the middle hole and no space is like all the way leaned in - where's yours at, Mike?...does that seem right to you guys that have more experience with this car?

i believe the R comes with a medium front sway bar and the soft rear - but they are both black, so not as easy to tell as the normal kit LOL

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

Mine has a 3mm shim I believe, I did not measure it yet. The guy I bought the car from did a good job with it, I didn't change anything, just ride height.

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

for the most part, mine was good as well - just a few things, like arms flipped, turnbuckles being way off

and a bunch of wrong manufacrer's screws connecting plastic part

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

Looked at it again, more like 2mm shim

alex_evo

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys need help on getting my head round suspension blocks at the front

ATM im using the stock suspension block settings which is front-outside =1A and front-inside=1XA-A.
According to the suspension block chart from Andrew Kuntze this = -1.0° front arm sweep

While the ver2 'R' uses front-outside=1C front-inside=1XC-C
According to the suspension block chart from Andrew Kuntze the front arm sweep will be -3.0°

Whats the benefit in having more 'negative' front arm sweep as used on the ver2 'R' ??

I already copied the 'R' rear suspension block setup to acheive -3.0° with 1E & 1XA-A and that has worked ok

ATM my car has abit of understeer thru the corners (using spool) running on outdoor asphalt

Alex..

Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

Keep in mind that the seperated blocks can be one of two settings(in the case of a 1XC-C block, it can be 1XC or 1C depending on how you mount it), & when using them on the front suspension, most likely the 1C end is being used, so the front setup would be 1C-1C, which would give zero toe angle(& think that's the preference for most of us, that's what I do with mine)....

alex_evo

iTrader: (1)

ahhhh... i finally get it now !!!

So stock is 1A-1A not 1A-1XA (that i always had thought) that = zero toe angle too so the reason to use 1C-1C is to gain a wider track

Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

Right, with the short reversible suspension arms(& the TA05ver.2 & TB03 both use them out of the box), the hot setup has been to use either 1C-1C or 1D-1D up front. I think that gets the track width to the legal maximum....

alex_evo

iTrader: (1)

SWEET !!! im probs gonna go for 1C-1C

Thanks alot, been trying to work this out for ages hahaha

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

silly question - and i haven't found it in any of the manuals..

what effects does lengthening or shortening the pushrods do to the handling of the car?

obiviously, it'll effect ride height - but is that it?

alex_evo

iTrader: (1)

I guess its mainly for ride height as i also tried finding out about this too.

But since the pushrod is like a lever that operates the bellcrank/shocks, the longer the pushrod the easier/less effort it is to compress the damper/springs, and shorter the pushrod the harder/takes more effort to compress the shocks, plus all this affects the ride height as mentioned

Im not 100% on this tho

evader-fan-69

iTrader: (2)

they are relative to shock position if it was a non ifs chassis...unless your an expert at setups i suggest leaving them where they are at then you build it from factory..i believe its somewhere between 12.5mm and 13mm between the plastic cups. make sure they are EQUAL. longer length would be like standing up the shocks and shorter would be like laying them down if i remember right. i tinkered with them but decided to put it back to "factory length." the orgional setup is an old mark reinhardt setup and is amazing imo. just added some trf special touring car springs (limited edition stiff purple) and put it on the track and got 2nd in the tcs race..and that was 2nd to a tie breaker!! its a great setup from facory..dont mess it up. send me a pm if yoy need anymore info

alex_evo

iTrader: (1)

I thought that adding spacers to the rocker arm changes the damper position not by lengthening of the pushrods. (thats what the manual says at least),

Also in the manual the normal ver2 has the pushrod turnbuckle lengths to be 12.5mm while the ver2 'R' has them at 13.5mm also the setup from 'Andrew Kuntze' has the pushrods to be 14mm (i refer to Andrew Kuntze setup as i cant find another decent setup sheet for the ver2)

Just wanna shine some more light on this

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

where did you find andrew kuntze's setup? i saw someone mention is before and I went looking for it, but no luck finding it

evader-fan-69 - thanks! I wasn't planning on messing with them, but figured I'd ask anyways. this is my first attempt with a car like this, so just wanna make sure I got all the info I need - and, sadly, the tamiya manuals don't give a whole lot of info on this

alex_evo

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=k_bojar;10459938]where did you find andrew kuntze's setup? i saw someone mention is before and I went looking for it, but no luck finding it

It was probs me who mentioned it before hehe

http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/ln/462/test_setup.pdf

heres the setup sheet from andrew kuntze

His settings works well, mine is very similar to his and car handles well