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Old 08-05-2011, 12:09 PM   #1816
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What is the best body for performance?

I have the Cusco that came in a kit, but I think it's better for looks than performance. It looks like the Rayberg bodies are pretty good.
if you are running either tcs or a gt type class then the nsx and ebbro's are good. if you can run a race body a protoform mazda speed 6 or ltc-r will be better choices.
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Old 08-08-2011, 07:21 PM   #1817
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if you are running either tcs or a gt type class then the nsx and ebbro's are good. if you can run a race body a protoform mazda speed 6 or ltc-r will be better choices.
Awesome, thanks. I'll look into all of these.
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Old 08-08-2011, 07:31 PM   #1818
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I just installed the stabalizer set and noticed it looks like the connectors rub against my universals/dogbone. And the right one deffinitly rubs when it turns either left or right - at a stand still, I can actually see the stabalizer move back and forth from the dogbone moving a little.



Should I not worry about this or is it bad?

Are the universals even supposed move when I turn the wheel?

There's nothing I can think of doing or changing to resolve this.



I also noticed the universal on the right side doesn't go into the differential as far as the other side.
I have the 416 universals and I think they're at least 1mm shorter than what is recommended.
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Old 08-09-2011, 01:28 AM   #1819
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Hey guys, I'm having a serious problem with my TA05 V2 R and it's getting really frustrating. The issue with with the belt tensioner pieces (A2 & A11) that hold the diffs in. No matter what I do I can't get the diffs to sit in tight. One of the A2/A11 in both front and rear slides in (towards the diff) and since it's so loose, this causes the drive shafts to pop out making the car a pain to drive. The diff will slide towards one side and then the shaft comes out. It happens more in the rear but it's definitely noticeable in the front also. I did switch the rear from the kit 44mm shafts to 46mm and it did make it a little better but something is still not right. I've seen several other TA05s and none of them are as loose as mine. I built the kit 100% according to the manual and this is not my first kit, but I have no idea what else to do. I even took the car to the local tracks/shops and nobody else can figure it out.
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Old 08-11-2011, 10:57 AM   #1820
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Exclamation DIFF SIDE PLAY?

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Hey guys, I'm having a serious problem with my TA05 V2 R and it's getting really frustrating. The issue with with the belt tensioner pieces (A2 & A11) that hold the diffs in. No matter what I do I can't get the diffs to sit in tight. One of the A2/A11 in both front and rear slides in (towards the diff) and since it's so loose, this causes the drive shafts to pop out making the car a pain to drive. The diff will slide towards one side and then the shaft comes out. It happens more in the rear but it's definitely noticeable in the front also. I did switch the rear from the kit 44mm shafts to 46mm and it did make it a little better but something is still not right. I've seen several other TA05s and none of them are as loose as mine. I built the kit 100% according to the manual and this is not my first kit, but I have no idea what else to do. I even took the car to the local tracks/shops and nobody else can figure it out.
If I understand what your saying is that the diffs slide from side to side, if that is the case have you shimmed the play out of the diffs? I believe the kit comes with shims, doesn't it? Also does the kit come with plastic outdrives or the aluminum outdrives? If it's not the R version then you probably have the plastic. The aluminum pieces will not expand at the ends so less likely for the shafts to come off. Last make sure that the belt tensioners are located exactly the same from left to right based on the marks . I like to use white out to fill the hole where the mark is located so that I know they are set in the exact location from left to right,because you can really see where the marks are without any doubt!
If they are off even one notch the diff will not be perpindicular to the shafts and this will cause problems also.Oh, I just thought of something else there are red foam spacers that go in the axle or inside the diff outdrive if you don't have universals then dogbones will pop off if the slack isn't removed from the space between the diff and the axles! Is it the dogbones or the diffs that are moving side to side?
I hope I was able to point you in the right direction so you can enjoy the V2 as much as I have since it first came out.
Just my 2$
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Last edited by maxepower; 08-11-2011 at 08:43 PM.
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Old 08-11-2011, 04:42 PM   #1821
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So I guess the Tamiya 416 universal shafts are too small for one side of the car?
(44mm)


Now I need to go back to using dogbones until I can buy a longer set.
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Last edited by Zac_with_no_K; 08-11-2011 at 04:57 PM.
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Old 08-11-2011, 08:04 PM   #1822
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Not neccessarily, but it depends on the suspension blocks you're using, the narrower ones will allow 44mm axles to be used without problems, but I know on mine, I tend to run my rear end pretty wide, so I use 46mm axles to make sure they won't pop out, might be a good investment for you....
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Old 08-11-2011, 08:53 PM   #1823
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Not neccessarily, but it depends on the suspension blocks you're using, the narrower ones will allow 44mm axles to be used without problems, but I know on mine, I tend to run my rear end pretty wide, so I use 46mm axles to make sure they won't pop out, might be a good investment for you....
Oh okay. Yeah I will be getting some 46mm whenever I do my next order.

Would it be bad if I keep running it on the 44mm universals? One of the sides is almost at the very edge of the diff cup and has some wiggle(mostly when turning). The other side doesn't have any wiggle.
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Old 08-12-2011, 02:54 PM   #1824
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When I ran a SpecR 44mm universal up front (it was the only universals in stock at the lhs), I started hearing clicks of the axle slipping off the diff when I turned to full lock. After a while, that side completely stopped catching onto the diff so I would just continuously spin even with no steering input. I then cheaped out on 3racing 46mm universals and I've had no problems since then.
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Old 08-12-2011, 03:02 PM   #1825
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When I ran a SpecR 44mm universal up front (it was the only universals in stock at the lhs), I started hearing clicks of the axle slipping off the diff when I turned to full lock. After a while, that side completely stopped catching onto the diff so I would just continuously spin even with no steering input. I then cheaped out on 3racing 46mm universals and I've had no problems since then.
I've never looked into 3racing until now, too bad most of everything is out of stock, and doesn't look like a US shop.
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Old 08-19-2011, 03:18 PM   #1826
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Hi,

I need some help with building my TA-05 v2 if possible. Right now I'm on step 8 assembling the rear arms. Although the diagram shows both the A3 washers, and A4 washers going on the same side of the rear arm, the next step 9 looks like one on each side.

Can someone please tell me which part goes where. The parts are A3 and A4.

Thanks, I just don't want to mess it up.
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Old 08-20-2011, 11:59 AM   #1827
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Hi,

I need some help with building my TA-05 v2 if possible. Right now I'm on step 8 assembling the rear arms. Although the diagram shows both the A3 washers, and A4 washers going on the same side of the rear arm, the next step 9 looks like one on each side.

Can someone please tell me which part goes where. The parts are A3 and A4.

Thanks, I just don't want to mess it up.
I see what you mean and that's really weird. I didn't notice that when I built mine. It makes sense to do that

I didn't put (what looks like)A3 on the other side I just followed step 8.

So I really don't know what the correct answer is?

Good job on going through details and catching that. That couple mm in spacing, going either way, might change how the car handles?
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Old 08-20-2011, 12:05 PM   #1828
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I see what you mean and that's really weird. I didn't notice that when I built mine. It makes sense to do that

I didn't put (what looks like)A3 on the other side I just followed step 8.

So I really don't know what the correct answer is?

Good job on going through details and catching that. That couple mm in spacing, going either way, might change how the car handles?
Not sure what it will do, but might be a pain to put it right later.

Just thought they would make a longer spacer if they were meant to be together. But you also have to cut some foam circle for one side of the axle shafts as well. I think I'll just build it as it says and hope for the best.

It's a big learning experience for me.
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Old 08-20-2011, 03:07 PM   #1829
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Not sure what it will do, but might be a pain to put it right later.

Just thought they would make a longer spacer if they were meant to be together. But you also have to cut some foam circle for one side of the axle shafts as well. I think I'll just build it as it says and hope for the best.

It's a big learning experience for me.
Step 8 is correct. If you download the PDF of the instructions manual from Tamiya's site, Step 9 is annotated with a note that the spacer location in Step 8 is correct. You can download the file from Tamiya's site (replace (dot)s with periods):

www(dot)tamiya(dot)com/english/rc/manuals(dot)htm

You can copy and paste the note into a translation site like Babelfish if you don't read Japanese.

Hope this helps.
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Old 08-20-2011, 05:14 PM   #1830
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Step 8 is correct. If you download the PDF of the instructions manual from Tamiya's site, Step 9 is annotated with a note that the spacer location in Step 8 is correct. You can download the file from Tamiya's site (replace (dot)s with periods):

www(dot)tamiya(dot)com/english/rc/manuals(dot)htm

You can copy and paste the note into a translation site like Babelfish if you don't read Japanese.

Hope this helps.
That helped out a lot thanks. Now up to the front steering and continuing on. It'll be great to see it running in the end considering the blood, sweat, and tears I've put into it.

I can see the pro's and cons of both Build kits, and RTR now.
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